rbw1966

I used a Western Mountaineering Bison DL bag on Denali in '99. It had a Gore Dryloft shell. It was plenty warm and man, was I glad I had spent the money! It compresses like a dream, is warm as hell and is still going strong even after being used several times in the Cascades. Overkill but WTF? I got it I might as well use it. Forget about a VBL unless you plan on going in the winter. Its overkill. My $.02. YMMV Rob

I've used VBL liners as well as breadbags/plastic shopping bags like are normally found in a grocery store and my advice is to save the money and just use the bread bags. If you do use them--and I only recommend it for very cold environments--be sure and use a thin sock between your skin and the bag, then a thicker sock over it. Dry your feet off every night, remove the liner sock and allow it to dry in your bag otherwise you're potentially creating more problems then helping. Foot powder comes in handy too. Rob

No sweat--I hope you didn't read that as a personal attack. I'd just hate to see Carver shut down because some idiot refused to sign the waiver and pay his $5.

My buddy and I did the Cooper Spur route on Hood about a month ago. It was pretty thin with respect to snow cover which made the ascent that much more difficult and gripping. No trustworthy pro to speak of ("I hope winding my way through these rocks will catch the rope in a fall") but it was fun nonetheless. Probably a lot easier now that we've received some snowfall (that has also melted away). Haven't done much else. Rob

Beacon is closed for raptor nesting and I believe will be open around mid-June. Broughton's is a great area to climb at but weekends can be busy. Mazamas teach classes there and monopolize the easy routes sometimes so be warned. Solid rock and good climbing. Ditto the warning about Rocky Butte. There are a few nice routes out there but between the noise of the freeway and falling beer bottles I'd rather go to the gym. Madrone is off limits to climbers and has been for a couple years but the Access Fund is working to change this. Carver--which is near Madrone--is open but on private property. The owner allows access if you sign a waiver of liability available at PRG (or me) and submit $5 for admin costs. Remember that since its on private property he doesn't have to allow access and climbing out there without signing a waiver can screw it up for everyone so take the time and sign up. You only have to do it once. There are a couple other areas within a reasonable driving distance from Portland: Horsethief Butte Bulo Point Tieton Also, the local guide book, Protland Rock Climbs by Tim Olson, is out of print but you might be able to find a used copy at Powells or some other book store. I saw a notice that Olson is working on an update but probably won't be ready anytime soon. If you have any questions drop me a line. [This message has been edited by Rob (edited 01-03-2001).]

Hey--interesting to see how many army fellows are here. I was in the army too--from 84-88. Two years at Benning and two years in Germany. Mountain Ranger school gave me the climbing bug.

I have purchased BDEL gear in the past and will continue to do so in the future. Why? One simple reason: customer service. Every time I've had a problem with gear they've replaced it or fixed it and had it back to me in a very short period of time. Lets see Barrabes beat that. I don't agree with them shutting down foreign retailers though--especially if they are selling a product line that BDEL is not responsible for manufacturing or developing. Like any consumer, I will buy my stuff where I get the best deals. BDEL can strong-arm the foreign retailers all they want--are they really cutting off that significant a market? I am sure there will always be ways to get around these tactics. In the end its up to the consumer to make the decisions with their wallets.

Its true we got back to Kahiltna Base earlier than our pre-arranged date. We did not expect Paul to drop everything to come get us out. We arrived at about 10 a.m. and had the Ranger call TAT right away to find out how long it would be (Annie was back in Talkeetna with Giardia). Paul himself told the Ranger he wasn't sure when he would be able to get us out but he would know for sure by 3 p.m. I was standing at the radio and listened to the whole exchange. I'm not an unreasonable guy by any means but when 4 p.m. rolled around and still no word from Paul we started to get a bit miffed. We had the Ranger call again, and again Paul answered the radio and said he wouldn't be able to get us out that day. Right about that time Jay Hudson gave us a ride back. He also brought our gear back the next trip onto the glacier. I can appreciate the need to maintain a business and hell, we had already paid so Paul had no motivation to hurry to pick us up. When we hiked across the airfield and into TAT to pick up the shit we had left behind we found Paul still behind the counter. A climber who had been picked up by Paul the day before said he had been there all day. Whether true or not I don't know--I do know that Paul made no trips onto the Kahiltna that day. I know he's a climber and I also know his reputation for flying where no one else will go. Beckey uses him so he can't be all bad. I just know that my experience was unpleasant and I'll avoid using him if I can. That's the scoop. I don't want anyone to think I'm spraying without reason.

I'll be there in Jan/Feb. If you haven't bought your ticket yet let me know and we can link up. Otherwise look for my trip report!

Perhaps your experience with Talkeetna Air Taxi was different but I recommend using Hudson Air rather than TAT. Paul left us hanging at Kahiltna International Airport and Jay Hudson gave us a ride back even though he didn't have to.

I was gonna join the dogpile but I'm not very studly so I won't. In any event, pins on Hood are not very trustworthy--as a matter of fact I wouldn't trust any pin on any of the cascade peaks I've been on. Just too manky. Be careful on Eliot--if you need to ask how to protect it then it might be a bit over your head. Depends on the conditions though. We did Cooper Spur a month ago and had to do some sketchy mixed climbing due to low snow cover--in a place that is normally a walkup. Good luck finding a partner. If you see any pins on Hood let me know where they are--I'd like to check them out.

I was telemarking at Meadows on Saturday and the conditions were fantastic. I'm hoping to get on the Cooper Spur this weekend. If I do I will post a report for those interested. Rob

My first knowledge of this website was when I saw a posting on the Usenet group "rec.climbing". Thats what I am referring too. I agree about OMA et al. I have zero interest in becoming a member either. Rob

Sorry Lhotse--not a girl but I am in the Portland area. Weren't you trying to peddle that Alien? Did you sell it yet? Drop me a line via email if you haven't. Also, maybe another posting to rec.climbing might direct a few women this way. Also, has anyone posted to Mazamas or Oregon Mountaineering Association website? Rob

What about forming a partnership with local gear shops who provide not only sponsorship for the site but also discounts to climbers who buy gear from using Cascadeclimbers as a portal? I know that there are already a few resources in my area for sharing trip reports, route information and the like that are totally free and totally free of advertisements and spam. This kind of forum is fun and its nice to build a regional rapport with local climbers but its cumbersome to post this way and it sees a bit less traffic then the other sites I visit. I can talk with one of the climbing shops in my area to see if they would be interested in providing a discount as well as sponsorship of the site if you like. Email me off-thread and we can talk more. Rob in Portland

Just out of curiousity--why do you dislike Mt Adams? I did the south side and didn't find it that particularly bad. South Side of Hood is far less appealing, aesthetically, then Adams. My favs (and of course these are influenced by area and what I've done): Rock: Beacon Rock for trad. Smith for sport Alpine: I really enjoyed the NW ridge of Jefferson. Crux to the summit pinnacle was a blast and had fun exposure. Mountaineering: my biggest achievement was the west butt of Denali. I know, not that technically challenging but first "expedition" style climb. Love to go back and do some of the tougher climbs.