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About nomad

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  • Birthday 03/03/1982


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  1. conserving ours, consuming theirs

    The solution (to environmental hypocrisy) is to consume less, not back away from conserving the ecosystems in your area. Ride a bike, buy recycled paper and print on both sides, carpool, use FSC certified or reclaimed lumber to build your patio, etc, etc. I don't know about Alberta, but the ecosystems of the North West are under severe strain. The past century or two of roadbuilding, logging, removal of beaver and large predators, water withdrawls, dam building, introduction of exotic species, wetland filling and development in lowland & riparian areas have made forced native species out of the area or onto the edge of extinction. Bogen said: "I am pleased to see that your president is reported to be a staunch supporter of "science-based policy making." Is this a joke!? What "science" are you talking about?
  2. Hey, I need a partner for spring break. Long free routes, cragging, bigwall. I've done the nose & 1/2 dome, etc...
  3. oh, and here's mike and nick on the infamous Strung Out. lets do it again soon folks!
  4. so the photos have taken a while. ...anyone else remember when the internet was for porno not yammering on about climbing rocks? sheesh. Anyway, the weather was great. much beer was consumed, Canadians were hunted and bowels unobstructed. Mike and skyclimb suffered mightily, or at least bitched a whole lot, on Strung Out, an obscure wide crack rated a measly 5.9. I indulged my bad habit of top roping. good times were had by all. the end.
  5. article on global warming

    Whether or not we're past said "turning point" is largely a matter of semantics or maybe whose computer generated climate model you're looking at. Yeah, most scientists predict drastic and tragic results in terms of increased extinction rates, loss of viable farmland, more frequent and violent tropical storms, etc. But we can make things even worse if we continue to burn such large quantities of fossil fuels... or we can cut back on our consumption, bike to work, carpool to the crags, sign up for renewable energy, and make a difference in the long run.
  6. Belaying the leader with a screamer...

    Oh come on, where's the fun in that. I will continue to proudly open my beer with a biners and self arrest with my nut tool.
  7. Is it too much to ask for? I'm looking for some ice to learn on, and since I only have 1 screw, it needs to be tr, unless there's rock pro available or the pitches are short. my tools are getting bored.
  8. Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

    kick ass. how late are you guys staying out?
  9. Made/Modified Climbing Gear

    I sharpend the business end of a BD cliffhanger to a point; works genius on probably 70% of the hook moves I've encountered. I've made RURPS, a nail-able cam hook out of a small broken crow bar and a giant Fish style hook out of rebar by heating it with a torch and pounding away with hammer and tongs. Oh, I also mod-ed a drywall hammer into a wall hammer. The strangest piece of gear I made was a cam-extender; it was a giant homebrew cam lobe that fits between the two existing cam lobes (on the narrow side) of my old-school #4 friend. Bolts fit through the holes in the lobes holding the whole thing together. I've used it once for pro and maybe twice for bodyweight while aiding (its kinda scary). I made my bike pannier (saddle bag for you non-cycling folks) and used it on a trip from Tillamook to San Fran down the 101, later I used it on an ill fated attempt to bike to and climb razorblade pinnacle on hood.
  10. I have a problem with my left heel that sounds similar. It started a few years ago when I took a fall that tweaked my achilles pretty bad... ever since then there's been this weird bump back there. A year later I went to a rather impatient doctor who was certain it was just really bad tendonitis and recomended calf/achilles stretches and better shoe insoles. I'm still fairly sure it's a bone spur (I mean, come on... I can feel it with my finger) but the pain has pretty much dissapeared with regular stretching and superfeet insoles. I still can't wear a climbing shoe with tight "slingshot" style rands or deep heel cup on my left foot, but mountaineering boots aren't a problem.
  11. Hood W. Side

    I'd love to do Leutholds sat/sun!
  12. PDX ice/alpine partner

    Cooper spur, Leuthold, Sandy glacier headwall, columbia gorge ice when it gets cold... liberty ridge on ranier at some point... I'm also planning to bicycle up to hood and do a route... Last summer I biked up to razorblade pinnacle (just below sandy glacier) with rope, rack and intent to solo (the pinnacle, not sandy) but bailed due to a lack of time (the approach took a lot longer than I thought) I did manage to solo a smaller pinnacle that was about 70' tall and wobbly like a stack of dinnerplates.
  13. hey, i'm lookin for someone to gumbie up alpine & ice around here. Although my experience in such stuff is pretty limited i used to aid climb a fair ammount and I've done a couple bigwalls so I can suffer as well as the next guy.
  14. Ice Tools

    I'll take the x-15s if no one else has claimed them. oh, and as long as they both aren't adze-heads