Bob_Clarke

quote: Originally posted by Bug: Stop strokin the squirrel yourself. Chalk doesn't stick to that stuff and that's why all you sport climbers can't break the 5.10 barrier on real climbs.

quote: Originally posted by trask: To all climber lackies: And Ropegun, the reason I don't answer your stupid questions is because 1. They make as much sense as cutting your legs off so you'll have a dick that touches the ground, and 2. Unlike you, I spent St. Valentine's Day with my human, pretty, smart girlfriend. Happy now? Go fondle your girlfriend's six tits some more.

If any of you boi's could actually climb all of this would be funny.

Score one for Crazy!

Sorry about the loss. The theft problem at Smith concerning Subaru wagons has been going on now for two years. The park rangers and locals are always on the look out for these people. It doesn't matter if the wagon has an alarm on it either, somehow the perpetraitor(s) have found a way (master key of sometype) to bypass any vehicle protection on the Subaru's. Most of the thefts now occur at night in that bivy area, where they used to happen in the parking lot mid week when there wasn't much traffic. So they think it's Terrebone/Redmond/Bend/Madras local behind it. Thanks for the post rat, reminds me to scowl at anyone looking through windows. [ 03-27-2002: Message edited by: Ropegun2002 ]

Absolutely stay at Edwards. There are plenty of books with hand written beta and plenty of climbers hanging out. Hiring a porter to stay with your stuff during your climbs will pay off hugely. Huarez is a great place. Enjoy.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Good sportos at Country dont know much else on that subject. Is this the place you wear that spandex? One size fits all.

Dear Allison - you must be still new to the park, I agree that Pheonix is a quality climb, however there are plenty of other boss 5.10a routes. -Irreverence 5.10a * * * -Heathens Highway 5.10a * * *-Cosmos 5.10a * * * Happy climbing.

-Lions Jaw 5.8 Good beginner lead, solid placements. -Out of Harms Way 5.8 Very fun -Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 Solid placements, classic -Cinnamon Slab, Cinnimon Toast 5.7 Good two pitch, fun reto bolted 2nd pitch. -Lichen It 5.7 bolts. -Bunny Face 5.7 bolts absolutely must do beginner lead! -Bookworm 5.7 worthy -Sky Ridge 5.8 Exciting and exposed!

Interesting topic Courtney - I find it very hard to get up on an ordinary morning and go lift wieghts/run or climb at the gym. However if I'm climbing outside, following a shot of coffee and any approach, I've jumped on hard lines and felt good and have always been surprised at how well my performance can be. On my regularly scheduled workout days, being awake for a few hours even later in the afternoon is always my best performance. Goofy.

quote: Originally posted by W: I'm not going to Second Bounce, that bastion of overcommercialized America! Fowler must be some kind of sell-out if he's giving a slide show there! You've got to be kidding me? Go and meet the guy W, first his integrity and grit will blow you away. His accompishments, style, ethics are solid & second to none. So what he's getting a little from Christine, a man's gotta live.

I'm going to Aplinegun

quote: Originally posted by red: fuck you trask whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

There aren't too many folks that count falls to determine the condition of their rope. (there are a few) Checking the rope for flat areas, noticing the rope becoming stiff, the sheath sliding around or the sheath having burn marks are clear indications that it's about time to replace it. I completely agree with Marty that when I climb on a weekend basis (even taking hard lead falls) a rope can last about one season. When ropes are used several times a week (unemployment - long vacations - sabaticals) their life is drastically reduced because of the exposure to dirt/falling/UV etc. With all of the advancments in rope technology I realy like using the 9.6mm or 9.7mm cords.

- Dreamer - Grand Wall - Orbit - W. Ridge Forbidden

Dood- Rappel, and when you get to the bottom - smile/kiss/her turn.

Cave Boi what is the beef with Lame boi?

New route on Monkey Face http://smithrock.com/flash/routeupdates/monkey_back.html

Wish I could Bum with you. Just been promoted and moved into a corner - window office. hmmm maybe I got the raw end of the deal. See you on The Nose this year.

Seattle Vertical World - For lead climbing. Stoner Gardens - Best Bouldering.

Subject: Where Enron Learned Economics, A concrete truck driver moved to Texas and bought a donkey from an old farmer for $100. The farmer agreed to deliver the donkey the next day. The next day, the farmer drove up and said, "Sorry, but I have some bad news. The donkey died." "Well, then, just give me my money back." "Can't do that. I went and spent it already." "OK, then. Just unload the donkey." "What ya gonna do with him?" "I'm going to raffle him off." "You can't raffle off a dead donkey!" "Sure I can. Watch me. I just won't tell anybody he's dead." A month later the farmer met up with the readi-mix driver and asked, "What happened with that dead donkey?" "I raffled him off. I sold 500 hundred tickets at two dollars apiece and made a profit of $998." "Didn't anyone complain?" Just the guy who won, so I gave him his two dollars back.

I'd be willing to part with mine. It has a few notes, well used.

Actually Karate Crack is the start of one of the best 5.12 routes anywhere. The route is called "Crossfire" and ascends directly above the arch of the crack to the top of the wall. Let's see, solid gear climbing and placements, power endurance, hard crimp sequences, very long runout sections finishing on open slopes that drain the body. Dr. E you may not see to many "5.12" climbers warming up onthe route much anymore because the climb sits directly in the hot sun, and with the route development at Smith Rock there a number of higher quality warm ups.

Simple question that has a complicated answer. In my experience, an emphasis on technique then strength helped elevate the numbers into 5.12 and beyond. Hand Technique-Footwork-Body Tension-Body Positioning-Mental Techniques, all fall under the category of "Technique". Strength also includes so many many factors. The question is where does one begin. That takes an open mind and spirit. Willingness to examine and work on their weaknesses, ask questions and look like a dork is a good start. And yes you can have a job and climb 5.13

Sounds like Z is jealous.