Bob_Clarke

What is the world coming to when jblakley doesn't take the middle of the road.

Doh - totally forgot about Slow Children. Absolutely right. How about West Ridge of Forbidden as an awesome one day climb!

Best finger crack - Exasperator 10a Squamish Best Route - Grand Wall 11a Squamish Best Single Alpine Pitch - 5th on Chianti Spire Best Sport Route - Crossfire 12b Smith Rock. Now I want to take off work and go climbing.

Top Roped Ice Climbing is neither.

Hollyclimber is a little hottie...lame climber..but I can work around that.

The col is plauged by large (LARGE) mice-mouse-snafflehound-all around nuisance creatures that run around at night eating anything. One was standing on my partners bag about shoulder height while he was sleeping during the night eating crumbs. The first 5.10 OW pitch isn't bad. I took only one 4" cam and worked fine (are you ok with runouts?). The upper wide pitch I scooted the cam along (there is a rusty 1/4" bolt entering the crack)(I'm sure the "other" trad boi's would never clip it) that was a grunt. Route finding is straight forward and the summit unbelievable. Have fun.

Did both routes in one weekend. Hiked to the col and did Burgandy that day. Snafflehounds are a hassle at the bivy. Chianti-Classic, absolutely fabulous..... I cant see doing both routes in one day. For specific beta feel free to email me directly.

Three golden rules to multi-pitch climbing: *Expect to fail. *One pitch at a time. *Never....never give up.

Wartley's Revenge - Way fun. Crossfire - Bring your "A" game. Vomit Launch - Awesome. The Blade - Take your courage. Monkey Space - Absolute must do.

Last weekend was fabulous. No crowds. No closures. White Satin Zebra/Zion Heathans Highway Darkness At Noon Heinos Cling Churning Magic Light License to Bolt Great Weekend!

Correct term is Ballistic Defense Missile. We just delivered one to Lockheed Martin.

One word says it all.........Smith

Absolutely completed it. All the pitches and rapped the route. I've been on the only a few times and we cruised in great time. Email me anytime directly for beta.

Jesus this thread could get interesting. How many times have I heard "LET'S go climbing my good friend" only to find out they want you to go just to lead the crux. Gets tiring after a while. Never a mention of how you're doing. I've done my share of guiding and at least you kow what you're getting yourself into. (to my good friends-I'm not referring to you-so stop getting pissed)

Did the route last weekend in perfect foggy conditions. The route finding can be confusing because it does not generally follow a crack system or a direct line. Wonderful moderate!

Ginea pig Peru was gross. Reminder to self: Do not eat fish in Argentina...agh

I haven't followed this topic but what I'm reading is a little weird. A person bolted an exsisting crack line (albeit dangerous), then a few guys who can't even climb the thing went and stripped it? To much focus on one climb. In business that's called leading with your chin.

What are some of the projects out there? I have a few, even a secret one for August!

One of the best climbs in the wine spires....Chianti!!!! Every pitch solid.

how would a north ridge decent look? Down to the Boston Glaicer?

Saturady - West Face of North Early Winters Spire. Sunday - Yanking hard at Little Si.

Single use items in the mountains are worthless. Search for ways that something can be used at least twice, if it can't, out of the pack. Another way of reducing weight is to mark everyhting in your pack that wasn't used everytime you get home. Anything with two or more marks gets canned.

"One size DOES NOT fit all" -you with the mouse in your hand...put the cheeseburger down.

(BTW-I wasn't bent) Favorite routes from red Rocks: a. Levitation 29 5.11b 9 pitches b. Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas III 5.12b c. Yak Crack 5.11b c. Running Man 5.11 d. Vile Pile 5.10b e. Frictiony Face Panty Waste 5.8 f. The Gift 5.12d g. Stiction 5.9

hmmm what about Index? JBlakley should I just ask this person to go out climbing? But then he doesn't give a direct email or name so that's out of the question. hmmmm. We all must be door knobs-god 5.10b! WOW I've never know anyone to climb at THAT level.