Bob_Clarke

I just returning from Red Rocks and flashed many over hung routes (11b, (2)11c, 11d, 12a) and was very fun. It all starts with deeply embedded edurance and a strong torso. In slab or crack climbng the objective is keeping the body over your feet by shifting your weight. In over hangs staying on the wall by keeping your weight over your toes via body tension (think like a rubber band) and lots of endurance in your forearms. Find an over hanging route at your limit, now do a series of ten laps three times once a week for the next six weeks. It works.

In speech's from Rienhold Messner and Fred Becky they both said "90 percent of the climbers are using 10 percent of the land. Expand our horizons." I heard this many years ago and as time marches on it has become clear that these icons really knew what they were talking about. So the responsibility comes back to us as climbers to explore the possibilities rather than the opposite.

The route through the Frying Pan Glacier is great. Elegantly exposed, easy route finding and overall a very fun climb. Highly recomended. ------------------

Best Roadtrip Music U2 The Joshua Tree Johhny Cash Greatest Hits ...God I feel like climbing!

I do not know the people who write/wrote the guidebooks for the Vantage area. A page about ettiquet could help in these situations. The Smith Rock guide has a paragragh or two clearly stating the local ettiquet and it has helped me from time to time when I've run accross a few people who appear to be very rude by hogging the routes, when in fact they were not aware of ettiquet. It also helps to difuse the situation because they often think someone is trying to bully them off a route. Simply refering to the ettiquet page in the guidebook helps to keep everyone calm. I do speak up when someone is camping on a route or trying to talk to my belayer, and I try my best not to leave the worst impression possible.

Please return my condom. Latex is reusable

Thank you for the great information. This weekend doesn't look that great.

Anyone know of a place to find reliable weather information to Squamish. The Grand Wall calls to me.

These kids climbing indoors or in competitions are not always gunning for the future of climbing or defining the direction of climbing, most of them are having fun in a safe environment. If I had ventured out on a scary runnout lead in my early teens no doubt I would have been serious injured. Now, I do the very long committed alpine scary runout routes. I do the runnout 5.12 sport routes that make people whimper. I do the Index, Squamish, Red Rock (hell anywhere) hard 5.11 multi-pitch routes. And I do believe in these kids cranking the hard indoor routes will eventually find the other aspects of climbing, and then, I'll be the one saying how brave they really are.

Does anyone know where to find or who to contact about getting a route update? I know there has been a lot of route activity.

Little Si has been dry. A day or two of sunand all the best routes at world wall go.

Tip that thing over! Already there has been to many accidents at Vantage.

HI Jim, I've found a way to train for mountaineering and stay injury free as well. Rather than weighted stair training, I run the hiking trails here in Seattle. My body and leg stroke are the same as high alttitude mountaineering. Try it sometime. The recovery is quicker and I've been doing this for years and have summitted some of the highest peaks.