dbb

I'll take the two 13s

It's all part of the plan

From the MCR: Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 12:52:03 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Bugaboo's Was just in the Bugaboo's on an alpine course from September 21-24. Precipitation throughout that period was quite consistent with snow well down below the Kain hut level. Accumulations up to 60cm on the upper Bugaboo glacier was observed, face shots would have been a definite if we were on skis. Generally low density snow, however, there was a weak layer, rimmed or graupel crystals lower down in the storm snow that was producing large settlements and whumping that was traveling long distances. No natural avalanches were observed. Wide spread false bridging throughout glaciers, making it difficult to see and negotiate crevasses. The spires were plastered with snow and ice was running down all over. By the 24th the south facing lower down faces, like the McTech and Crescent towers areas were starting to dry off and might possibly become climable again. The power at the hut was off for the season due to the lack of water for the Hydro electric system and the hut will be boarded up for the winter in a couple of days. Time to head south.

dang porter, sorry to hear it. Get well soon!

It's a good time of year for climbing this route. Good camping down in the boulders, creek full of water near by, and steeeeeep granite! more info here mr. berdinka called p3 *****, and I think it probably goes free at 5.10 I'll definitely be back up there this fall!

jberg?

So Mike, I see by your topo that you went by the adage: "when you get to the summit, keep climbing"

I tend to prefer going around the back side of Eldorado (on the inspiration glacier) to access marble creek. I would go over the triad-eldo col only if I was headed to the West Arete of Eldorado or something on the triad. The triad-eldo col is 5th class to cross over, and traversing below the eldorado glacier seems to me to be the best route to get there (you would have to lose elevation if you went high on the glacier). The Rouche creek/Eldorado creek approach is straitforward now-a-days, and traversing over to Dorado needle is really quick from the base of the East Ridge on eldo.

very nice

nice story Jay! Trucks are not great winter driving vehicles. they're not good summer driving vehicles either (comfort, mpg). What they are good at is rough HC roads and breaking trail through 1-3' of fresh snow with chains on all wheels and weight in the back. If you'll be doing enough of those to make it worth it (Ghost River access, Hyalite later season, etc) then go with the truck. However, you can do some burly stuff in subarus with patience and time. They'll also drive better to the ski area.

only on cheat day!

nicely done

I'd reccomend the Arc teryx gamma LT pant. they're not convertable but they roll up just fine. These will be lighter and more durable than any convertable pant you can find. they also climb great year round.

rad send Mr. Bentley!! did you feel at one with the mountains when the bugs started "free soloing" all over you?

why not just tie off the rope, clip the rope-touching biner into your belay loop, then unclip the anchor-touching biner and party on?

looks super fun. good job Elisif & Nick!

I'll take the gators (lucky #13)

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FYI: Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:38:49 -0600 Bugaboo road closed again! And this time for at least a couple of days. 16mm of rain overnight has brought down three major and several minor mudslides between km26 and km28. These mudslides have created some major washouts as well and will take some time to fix.

wow, nice stuff Blake!

I do! I do! (not) I'm surprised no one has mentioned rapping one of the buttresses further East from the Sherpa glacier. I've read a report of people climbing close to the base of the West Ridge of Sherpa, and then rapping down to the basin below. Sounded pretty strait forward, with maybe 8-10 single rope rapps at existing stations.

Kurt- yes, in a way. At the lowest point in Eldorado's North Ridge there, between it and Dean's Spire, you can down climb and rappel about 90 meters to the glacier. That's the way Ken and I approached the NW couloir. We left a couple nuts fixed for the raps. The more "standard" approach described in Nelson's book follows the way these gents went.

PM sent on BD nuts and yellow/green offset alien

Just find a partner and do the North Ridge of Baker. Good alpine ice climbing and plenty good through july