
dbb
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Everything posted by dbb
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first ascent [TR] Mt. Stuart - Gorillas in the Mist - IV 5.11 7/8/2009
dbb replied to Blake's topic in Alpine Lakes
Very nice line guys. The climbing looks great!- 67 replies
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Saw some yellow Scarpa rock shoes at the base of Godzilla last night. Someone said that they were there yesterday too. They're still there.
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first ascent [TR] Greybeard Peak - East Face 5/16/2009
dbb replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
Beautiful line Mr. Lunger! I know phil and co. have given that a try once. I found out from pete that it was you above us on hardy the week before. thanks for the steps! -
best of cc.com [TR] Alaska - The Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier 4/25/2009
dbb replied to John Frieh's topic in Alaska
Way to send John & Doug! -
Gary- did you try this? Subscription manager is Denise, subscriptions@holpublications.com
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[TR] Index TW - Waking The Dragon From Her Winter Slumber 4/4/2009
dbb replied to ivan's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Sounds like you guys need to dial in the "leave no trace" system a bit. -
I'm going to ask you a bunch of questions and i want them answered immediately
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check out mt. kent's north face. it is right next to McClellans Butte. There are several cool gully climbs, and if the entrance ice at the bottom is missing you can always jungle up the trees on the side. Really easy day trip from seattle. Most routes are about AI2/3.
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no tele and splitboard divisions at alpental this year?
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I too loved the old dry tool glove for leading ice. They actually replaced that glove with the BD "Impulse". They categorize it under ski descent, so it is less available at shops, unfortunately. However, it is a rad glove: some light knuckle padding, leather palm, a warm-enough thick schoeller/powershield outter, and a wrist velcro. A real benefit of these over the old dry tools is that they are more ergonomically contoured (instead of totally strait fingers). Much warmer than the torque, though those are excellent gloves as well.
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Hey C- From being on the face, I'm pretty sure that the Folsom route goes up the snowy/wet weakness in the center of the face. Rolf's route from this fall shares much of the same terrain. The rock on the face is shale-like, somewhat loose and compact. That might not translate to the ridge, but hard to say. I think Jens might have made an attempt on the ridge a few years ago.
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Grivel 360 ice screw - 17cm length - $30 in great shape, teeth are sharp.
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let's mellow out a bit, eh? Dane's a good guy.
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it is supposed to warm up for a couple days, but then cool down again. If it doesn't fall down with this heat wave it will probably be good. A safe piece of advice for Fugs is to climb it in the morning before the sun gets on it. thanks for the pics!
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CYA is totally gone! Here Today Gone Tomorrow & the Yellow Pillar are still there kiddie cliff in the alpental valley is fat and below freezing
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they also done gone an found da internets out dere: http://montanaice.com/forum/12/
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just an FYI, if that fixed pin on CYA is out left, placed from right to left and is a knifeblade, it is probably not very good. hard to get out (nearly fixed mine too), but a fairly weak placement. Glad to hear the #4 camalot worked! a couple more from Skookum yesterday: CascadeClimber on p1 topping out on p3
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went back to the "here today, gone tomorrow" area at exit 38 today. We climbed the other ice route on the upper tier, calling it "The Yellow Pillar" WI4-. Also climbed HTGT, which was much thicker than 2 days ago. Marcus leading p1 of HTGT The Yellow Pillar fun and plastic! p2 of Here Today Gone Tomorrow Spent the day on the new BD vipers too. Nice toolz
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CascadeClimber & I climbed the ice route above the black ice crag this morning. Great climbing! About 20 feet of mixed ground to reach the ice (M4/5 WI4). If you had a new #4 or #5 camalot you could protect the crux really well (under the roof). I was able to get some small cams, and a decent blade out left. If Alex's info is correct, I think this is the first time the climb has been led. It has obviously been TR'd before. We also climbed a second pitch, up and right at WI2. P1 topping out p2 Then we went over to the ironhorse trailhead, and climbed Pax and Ken's route. Approach up the right side of the drainage in the forest. This route is easily visible from the off ramp. p1 WET! Nice pillar. Felt 4- don't forget to start the day off right!
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Route Setting! The dongler prepares for battle Puuuuuulllll!! Chicks That Rip Finals! Max crushing! M4 getting up my stairs
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That was a RAD time! Big time thank you to Jeremy, Bruce, Keith and the staff of Stone Gardens, for putting on such a fantastic and smoothly run event. And to the community for coming out en mass on a snowy night and having a ball! Also can't forget the big ballers, Chad and Dylan, for putting on a great show from their trip to China. Thanks again all! And to all the shops and companies that stepped up and supported the event: Feathered Friends, Pro Mountain Sports, Outdoor Research, Second Ascent, CascadeClimbers.com, Black Diamond, Petzl, La Sportiva, DMM, The American Alpine Club, The Access Fund, REI, Maritime Brewing, Nuun, and La Isla, THANKS!!!!!
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Just a reminder that the Seattle Ice Festival is going on tomorrow night at Stone Gardens, 5-10pm. Come on down to hone your skills and check out new gear!
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The comp routes are going to be fun fun fun! You should definitely enter if you're thinking about it! No prior drytooling experience is necessary. Also note that all of the demo and comp routes are going to be INSIDE!