dbb

It's a good time of year for climbing this route. Good camping down in the boulders, creek full of water near by, and steeeeeep granite! more info here mr. berdinka called p3 *****, and I think it probably goes free at 5.10 I'll definitely be back up there this fall!

jberg?

So Mike, I see by your topo that you went by the adage: "when you get to the summit, keep climbing"

I tend to prefer going around the back side of Eldorado (on the inspiration glacier) to access marble creek. I would go over the triad-eldo col only if I was headed to the West Arete of Eldorado or something on the triad. The triad-eldo col is 5th class to cross over, and traversing below the eldorado glacier seems to me to be the best route to get there (you would have to lose elevation if you went high on the glacier). The Rouche creek/Eldorado creek approach is straitforward now-a-days, and traversing over to Dorado needle is really quick from the base of the East Ridge on eldo.

very nice

nice story Jay! Trucks are not great winter driving vehicles. they're not good summer driving vehicles either (comfort, mpg). What they are good at is rough HC roads and breaking trail through 1-3' of fresh snow with chains on all wheels and weight in the back. If you'll be doing enough of those to make it worth it (Ghost River access, Hyalite later season, etc) then go with the truck. However, you can do some burly stuff in subarus with patience and time. They'll also drive better to the ski area.

only on cheat day!

nicely done

I'd reccomend the Arc teryx gamma LT pant. they're not convertable but they roll up just fine. These will be lighter and more durable than any convertable pant you can find. they also climb great year round.

rad send Mr. Bentley!! did you feel at one with the mountains when the bugs started "free soloing" all over you?

why not just tie off the rope, clip the rope-touching biner into your belay loop, then unclip the anchor-touching biner and party on?

looks super fun. good job Elisif & Nick!

this is from the MCR Digest which you can subscribe to here: http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/mcr

FYI: Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:38:49 -0600 Bugaboo road closed again! And this time for at least a couple of days. 16mm of rain overnight has brought down three major and several minor mudslides between km26 and km28. These mudslides have created some major washouts as well and will take some time to fix.

wow, nice stuff Blake!

I do! I do! (not) I'm surprised no one has mentioned rapping one of the buttresses further East from the Sherpa glacier. I've read a report of people climbing close to the base of the West Ridge of Sherpa, and then rapping down to the basin below. Sounded pretty strait forward, with maybe 8-10 single rope rapps at existing stations.

Kurt- yes, in a way. At the lowest point in Eldorado's North Ridge there, between it and Dean's Spire, you can down climb and rappel about 90 meters to the glacier. That's the way Ken and I approached the NW couloir. We left a couple nuts fixed for the raps. The more "standard" approach described in Nelson's book follows the way these gents went.

Just find a partner and do the North Ridge of Baker. Good alpine ice climbing and plenty good through july

with old style camalots you can walk protection up the entire pitch with a #4 and a #5. Also, climbing the OW with a small pack isn't bad if you just loosen your left pack strap

saweeet pics ross!!

nice avitripp, that's just what I was thinking too. good work guys! That's a proud link up. Salish looks superb!

Blake- I'd do crampons and no axe. the snow should be easy for you, but it's hard in the morning.

should be fine climbing in boots. It's likely that the scrambling couloirs below long john tower will have some snow in them, but that shouldn't cause a problem. you might find snow still on the north-side traverse out of the west ridge notch too. the crux on the summit pyramid gets tons of sun and has been dry for a while. go for it!

Thought folks around here might be interested in this: