dbb

Holy moley, who knew that portland turned into Canmore every few years? Nice guys!

looked like there was ice on the first pitch of pineapple a week ago. Given the warmth we're having now and the cold predicted for the weekend, I'd say those routes will be worth the walk. I wouldn't expect a lot of ice on the crack topout of NYG though!

edited

and what the hell did you fall on?? looks like a big blue dild* we're just jealous John

Brand new, never opened JetBoil Flash Cooking System (the new version). Black, $65 dave@alpinedave.com

nice effin' directional john! and I thought penalty slack was bad

R-A-D.

thanks for the link Dane, I have to say, this pic is rad:

Free queen size fouton pad that has been sitting on the concrete under my climbing wall in the basement for many years. Probably not going to be your new guest bed, but great for bouldering. Let me know if you want it.

for sale: G3 Targa backcountry kit $20 (retails for $50). PM or dave@alpinedave.com

Call Second Ascent in Ballard: (206) 545-8810 they've probably got lots of Shrikes (aka bent shaft X15s), and black rubber shaft Phrophets. And Kurt is correct, all current BD picks fit on all old BD tools. and if I were you I'd keep your old tools for sentimentality and eventually buy some modern tools with a clearance shaft.

rad rad rad! but no skis? don't tell me that you've been hanging with monkeys up there...

Demo tools are provided, including a debut of the new BD fusions! just bring your rock shoes and harness unless you really want to compete in your old 45cm X-15s

Got to handle the tool recently. Nicely done BD. Some differences I noticed between the nomic and this are - that is indeed a MICRO HAMMER on there! - removable spike at the bottom for cragging/alpine - adjustable grip that doesn't change the angle of the pinky rest - metal at tip of the upper match Looking forward to climbing some pitches in em.

Nice guys. You recommend the route? Have visor, will travel.

To descend from the Terrace I prefer to: walk to the far climbers right on the terrace to its end (overlooking the west slabs). There is a slung tree that will allow you to rapp down onto the west slabs rappell route. one or two more tree anchors leads to chain anchors on the Westward Ho! route. You can also reach these rappells from the summit by rapping down there (though some from the summit are a bit brushy) If you have climbed the west buttress the nice thing about this descent is that you're deposited right back to your shoes/packs. If you were climbing Dark Rhythm or Jacobs Ladder then rapping this new option & Jacobs ladder is probably best.

will post pictures of the screws tonight

Nice job David et al, glad to see that you guys finished a line on that bad boy! Dave

La Sportiva Katanas, Size 41.5, about 6 months old (1/2 way to resole, small fix on left shoe's toe). Good shape, don't smell - $40 3 x 13cm (gold) Black Diamond Turbo Express ice screws. Excellent shape, used one season. These are the pre-stainless hanger version. $30/ea email: dave@alpinedave.com

I think you should go with the jacket that fits you the best. For what it is worth, I have the ascensionist and love it for cold alpine rock, ice and x/c skiing. It seems to have a "harder" face (better wind protection) than my older schoeller garments.

Alpinfox is right that there is a stream near by that runs all season long. It is not at the base of the wall, but on the other side of the boulder field from the wall. It is only a couple minute walk away from the big flat bivi boulder. Matt's directions are good, and there is some flagging on the logging road right after the switch back that marks where you enter the woods. Pretty easy to follow 1.5 hour approach with gear.

and go do this route once you get up to speed. It's fun and easy (you can do it as easy as 5.7 A2). It could probably go clean too with cam hooks. http://www.alpinedave.com/darrington/Voodoo/Voodoo_Wall.htm

Glad to hear you're going to be okay Mark! Way to hang in there. Dave

Not sure if this has been posted here yet, but BD is coming out with a new version of the Fusion. From what I've heard it drytools just as well, but actually swings like a regular ice tool. Looks like a nice addition of a spike w/ a clip hole, and a possible micro hammer on the head.