Jump to content

matt_m

Members
  • Content count

    322
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About matt_m

  • Rank
    enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/01/1978

Converted

  • Location
    TX
  1. Snow Creek Wall

    +1000 I grew up in NY and Lyme Disease is no joke (not sure if it's in WA) but I've been "DEETING" since a young lad and have no ill effects that I know of. My sister picked up Lyme and STILL has joint issues a decade after..
  2. Rack: 1 set BD C4s .75-3 or 4 with 2x #2 and #3 1 set Totem cams Blue - Red (#1 BD size) This will get you doubles in all the mid sizes 1 set Totem Basic Cams (Aliens) Green to Red (.5 BD Size ish) Couple of C3s if you want more in the smaller sizes
  3. why the mastercam hate?

    MY biggest issue with Master Cams and all Metolius cams are their sizing choices. Since they use the smaller 13.25 cam angle they have a smaller range. Given that you'd expect them to have MORE sizes for more overlap and better "Coverage". Instead, Metolius Cams always seem to have gaps. I HATE the spacing between BLUE and Yellow. There's a reason many love the Green Alien. It's the size you WANT between Blue and Yellow. I've actually emailed the guys in Bend about making half sizes. Same goes for the jump from Orange to Red. It's a bit too much.
  4. why the mastercam hate?

    The CCH/Fixe rating being higher is due to a different testing regime. Totem posted on this at some point on ST. Basically, the Totem rating is with less cam closure vs the Fixe. I'm with RyanB. Below a Green Alien the Master Cams and other designs are better. Green-Red Alien are their sweet spot. The Totem Basics are a near spot on version of the CCH Alien with some tweaks and improvements that make it better overall. I did an initial review here - read down a few posts, I saw I posted on the Strength ratings as well. Totem Basic Review @ MtnProj
  5. Unicore Ropes Look Pretty Awesome!

    Beal has an outdoor specific UniCore rope now called the Diablo 10.2mm.
  6. Spanish Alien Clones by Totem

    Making their own. Two different companies. Totem has made some tweaks to the design so they're not exact clones
  7. Draws Taken from Little Si!

    "Easy Target" as in easy to complain about. It's a whole different level of low to TARGET an area to take draws! I chopped and took the really bleached stuff, left behind one new sling since it was early in the season. The truly low impact solution to that TAT mess (and many others in the alpine) is to put in a SS Double Ring Rap Anchor. Even staunchly tradition and anti-bolt areas like the Gunks recognized that in some circumstances, two bolt rap stations were WAY lower impact that slings, tat, trees etc. To leave gear hanging on harder routes at a well established sport crag is SOP. To claim other wise is to make an attempt to justify ones dislike of "project gear" and excuse climbers taking others gear as "expected". Any even remotely experienced climber worth a damn can pretty easily tell booty (in a crack or what have you) or a bail biner/draw vs project draws. While there may be some grey areas they're few and far between. Single Biner at the crux bolt? Bail. Cam in crack with no one to be seen - booty. 5 draws on a hard route - Project. See here for reference chart. I'm not naive though. I wouldn't leave draws hanging @ L-worth, Index or Vantage and expect to see them again. They're NOT established SPORT areas but a mix of many styles. Exit 32 and Smith - different story.
  8. Draws Taken from Little Si!

    Fixed/Project Draws are ALWAYS an easy target for those pre-disposed to hating all things sport climbing. There's never any mention of: - Fixed Rap Slings, Rusty Pins, Pin Scars etc etc. The MESS of TAT and Webbing at the top of Prusik Peak (or was it Box Top?) the last time I was up there was ugly and much more in line with what "trash" is than some temporarily left QDs that WILL be picked up by their owner. When it comes down to it, project draws etc are just the easiest target for those that don't like sport climbing and it's emphasis on athleticism in lieu of "adventure and risk". Don't get me wrong, I dislike scenes like the fixed-draw bonanza Joseph posted up thread and would complain about that mess as well but, I have no qualms with project draws or the OCCASIONAL Perma-Draw at areas where it fits with the local "Style".
  9. half/twin ropes??

    Once you get rope management figured out, Half Ropes for long trad routes can be the cat's meow. I've used them extensively in Squamish, Darrington, Red Rocks, the Gunks etc etc. One of the BEST tips I've read to minimize the Fluster Cluck is to carry a Metolius Rope Hook. You flake the rope back and forth into it and then just lift out the loops and drop them when feeding out rope on the next pitch. This is FAR FAR better than making loops around your leg etc. That NEVER seems to work. EVER. Rich Goldstone of Gunks fame swears by it. For the Valley, half ropes can be GREAT for the longer climbs. Royal Arches to Crest Jewel for example. On climbs with "simple" walk offs like Manure Pile, a single cord is better. I've always believed with the rare exception, that if you need to drag along a rap line, you should just climb on half ropes. For your Valley Trip, bring your doubles and a single 70/80m if you can. The Doubles are great for all the long rap descents. The single cord can be your cragging rope AND is great for linking pitches on routes with walk offs and short "old length" pitches.
  10. [TR] Kalymnos, Greece - 4/5/2011

    Kalymnos is amazing. Springtime was fantastic when I went. The food is fresh in a way I've never had in the States. Serious to die for Greek Salads and Lamb. And the climbing is every bit as good as looks.
  11. Awesome place. It's so close to town that I'm always surprised it doesn't see more traffic. I think a bit more weed and plant cleanup at the bottom would help make it more attractive. I too did NOT have a small TCU on Sub-Aqueous Tractor Retrieval and wished I did. Made it "sporting" for sure. A great place to get a weekday slab run in before Darrington or Squamish.
  12. Exit 32 Climbing and Parks Agreement

    I'll still be lurking here! I need to check in now and then to be reminded of what good granite is like! That's what I thought - The PNW doesn't hand hold as much as they do down here.
  13. mammut smart belay device

    Not needed if your kids are SOLID with an XP etc. I found with my Smart (regular one) that 1) Ropes need to be sub 10mm for it to be really smooth. 2) Feed slack for lead belaying: Hook your belay hand thumb on the "hook" and pull STRAIGHT OUT from your harness. It's in the directions or online video somewhere but UP doesn't work, you want STRAIGHT OUT. That makes is work well. 3) Lowering is funky. Takes practice. 4) I like it BUT I haven't found it's "niche" yet. GriGri for sport, Guide XP for Trad... Not sure where to USE it yet.
  14. Anyone have a picture of the sign posted by WW1 warning "hikers" of the "dangers" of climbing? Anyone have info on what the "arrangement" is with the Parks Dept re: climbing access? I'm in a new locale now (TX) that's pretty clueless about climbing on parks property. Trying to get access setup down here for a local wall and any info one has to aid my cause would be greatly appreciated! MM
  15. Is resoling rock shoes worth it?

    Well worth it. Ramuta is THE MAN. It's no joke that your shoes come back BETTER than factory fresh, especially the edges. I have a beater pair of gym MOCS that are now on their 5th or 6th resole. Still good! Frankly, 9 out of 10 climbers and DUMB when it comes to resoling. They wait to damn long and kill their rand or the shoe. WHY? Seriously. Do you let any other shoe you own get so beat that you can see your TOES? As SOON as the sole gets CLOSE to not protecting the upper rand, they go in.
×