dbb

wet Champagne a thin Trotsky's

just a reminder, temps are supposed to go above freezing starting tomorrow. Climbing the devil's punchbowl in these conditions is extraordinarily dangerous. Do what you want, but nearly every time I've been in the area (about 5) I've seen people narrowly avoid injury/being killed by small to massive releases from above. Not really worth the risk IMHO for a single pitch 2+.

great show Mark!

nice man, looks spicy

very nice Chris. I think a lot of us were wondering if banks had come in. thx

It is a good point that Dale makes. You could get way more hours of burn on with light, preset ropes, and short (for most) commute to a gym. I think if there was a persistant enough crowd a gym would probably at least consider it. I wouldn't even mind getting a set of drytool holds for the gym if we could put 'em up.

is the video on the internet? in the tieing off, how far out of the ice did they have the hangar? taking 20+ falls on the same rope is going to seriously change his results, i.e. the rope impact force is going to increase with more falls. But people will always bag on an experimental design. It's cool to see some folks out there actually giving these things a test outside of a lab. bonath- The mammut screamers work just as well I'm sure. They are made out of the skinny spectra/dyneema/etc webbing and are probably better suited for remote ice/alpinists/walls where weight matters. For ice cragging, the Yates (made from 1" tubular nylon) will likely have greater longevity. Cheaper is nice too. Personally, I can't stand using the "ice screamers". They are so long that they will catch in your crampons if you let them hang. You can easily clip the biners together for more compact racking, but it is yet another step to do.

sounds a lot like my experience there from several years ago. We had to tunnel though waist/chest deep powder to get to the base (bonehead ice climbers, we should have been skiing!). Found simmilar snowy slab slush, so I sunk in one of my trusty snargs as a bail piece and downclimbed from the base of the curtain. A nice solid yank of the rope retrieved my screw once I was down maybe that's why they call us 'yanks' up north? wish I could join you guys next w/e. D

that poor abused little sapling..

don't have a mono/trident kit, sorry. maybe see if BD has some laying around? catbird- the switchblade and the Mako are the same crampon but the Mako came with the mono/trident kit by default.

bump.

It seemed pretty clear when this was loudly annouced over a month ago that there would be no signage: but it sounds like they took the notice down from the SRD kiosk? I'd say it's not about being "scared" of a ticket, it's about respecting the land managers so that we continue to have access in the future.

is that the stuff right off the road, kinda by the dorms kurt?

no problem. it only took me a second to pull off the TPS report cover. another nice thing about BD's constant head design is that you can put viper components on the reactors or (I'm pretty sure) fusions. voila, leashless hammers.

I got the memo, and it says that all BD picks fit on all BD tools (except the venom, but that's not a tool!)

I think we should test one of alpinfox's 16 year old screamers. though it would be a shame to watch true 80's lycra be destroyed

need to put in a link to the actual image, not just the gallery page:

what did it sound like Al?

with (too?) many sports, there is never an off season! vw- I like to work endurance in any way I can while training at the gym. Boulder, lead (for the mind games), don't hurt your fingers, then do lots of reps with medium weight working all sorts of muscles (for balance) after climbing. The worst thing you can do for your shoulders is a bazillion pullups. do some, but not a bazillion. Just a rotator cuff injury waiting to happen.

FWIW: I've only swung them in the shops. they seem alright for what you mention. They are a short, relatively light weight tool with a decent weighting. they swing a lot like the XMonster: maybe a little heavy in the shaft, but with a good snap. too bad John can't say anymore: "Check these out at the PDX ice festival yo! "

thanks for all the excellent advice guys

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what kind of cord do you use marcus? just like 6-7mm perlon or something fancier?

I like these threads too because it reminds me of climbing I want to do but am not thinking about. so here are my highligts: -Fuggs Falls in vantage - finally, ice at vantage. endured massive ice storm to get there and back. -4 of the best powder days of my life. -A month climbing and exploring the SW. Indian Creek, Arches, Moab. Love it. Found that Frogland is my favorite route for the grade in red rocks. -many great early summer days cragging and kickin' it with friends at tieton, index, eerie, etc -some clean alaskan rock and a minor new summit -backbone ridge, Dragontail in a (long) day -finally got back and scoped/climbed some fun new lines on the Witch Doctor Wall with excellent bro's. can't complain too much..

but the lat/lon is in the URL: &lat=47.494583333333&lon=-120.80875