dbb
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Everything posted by dbb
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Ryan- Thanks for sharing that. To answer your question, most helicopter rescues in Washington are carried out by the military (MAST). This is not always true on Rainier, or in the north cascades ntnl park. I believe it is a policy of MAST not to recover dead bodies (at all) as it endangers the crew without the possibility for acutely helping a human life. But not everything is hard and fast, and as such, most bodies are flown out anyways.
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Are you guys rapping on a single strand of rope and using the cord to retrieve a jammed knot (at the anchor) or having both strands go through the device?
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Nice to see ya back on the horse Greg! Skiing this winter?
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Hope so, they seem to have them around the end of oct/early nov. I doubt I'll come close to the money this year, y'all are too strong
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dang it, what would the kids at stone gardens think of this???!!! a travesty! get back up there with your tooth brush and start SCRUBBIN!
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just to note, on the second pitch we did a 5.9 variation pitch (very nice) that goes up and left above the piton belay. The regular way goes up and right through some wider 5.8 cracks...
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Loren's TR: http://www.cascadeclimber.com/jberg_-_the_ck_route.htm
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Wicked job Jens and Loren! I can't believe you guys went back for that after the first time. awesome!
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can you post a link to the item? couldn't find it on their site
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The bolt that this draw is clipped to? I though that one of those two had been replaced already with stainless 3/8"??
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wicked video michael!
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Nice job on your 'first' alpine climb Mike! I think it's generally known that while the lower ridge doesn't have the quality clean rock of the upper ridge, the aesthetics of climbing the "whole feature" definitely make it worth it. Plus, I thought the 2nd pitch hand/finger crack varriation was killer. Glad to hear Yuko didn't hurt herself on that gendarme fall
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Did anyone get to play with one of these at the OR show? looks like they're making another version of the monster that's suited a little more for waterice. Looks cool, wonder what they'll retail for? When will they be available to the public? http://www.grivel.com/Products/Dettaglio_piccozze.asp?ID=21
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exasperator? like bret said having taken a 60+ foot slab fall, "No slab will ever scare me again"
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sky: you're crazy. nice work! Marble Creek cirque is so beautiful and wild. looking down into the massive drop of forrest and devils club inspires one to climb up and out! great TR on your site. so how did you like the west arete on the way out?
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yes. just make two rappels and your down to the scrambling terrain. The second rap is off an obvious slung block
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first ascent [TR] Kichatna Spire - The Black Crystal Arete
dbb replied to joepuryear's topic in Alaska
Wicked looking route. Hats off to you guys. Thanks for posting such a detailed description and pics. -
fuckin' awesome Ken! Ice in Africa, nuts. looks like you got your screw caps on there rusty
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If you take the sharkfin col bypass you'll have no troubles at all with moats. I don't think you'd have any trouble with the rest of the glacier or getting on to the north ridge either. just don't do the NW face at that point... the two sections will probably have loose choss between them by then.
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damn, I knew I shouldn't have been licking the extra food scraps off the floor.
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interesting design. I wonder if there is a u-stem patent issue that precipitated them connecting to the shaft inside the first lobe on each side. personally, I think having two attachments to the shaft (okay, no enumclaw jokes! ) like this is best for small cams as it helps to leverage on 'em when they're stuck. does look like a lot of plastic, but I guess they're just trying to protect the cables... looks like they're about as narrow as aliens too. perhaps some friendly comp?
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Yep, except last night it was stopped from Index->sultan. damn traffic light. I've heard that one happens every sunday and clears up around 9pm. sucks...
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This time of year I bet it is all snow--which would be fun if it freezes over night. It's really just an east facing glacier that ramps up to 45-50 degrees for a couple rope lengths. I did the route in early october and found it to have some ice, some fresh snow. I bet september would be great as you wouldn't have any fresh covering the ice. In November it would be under 4-6" of fresh, but there would be ice underneath.
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That looks awesome. Nice trip what time of year is it best to go in?