dbb

lots of cams are that way already. check out most of the forged friends and the larger metolius cams. You can slide the lobes around a little bit, and it does actually help with getting the graphite in there when being serviced...

send Colin to the rescue! Hope he makes it down ok.

Awesome Mark! Looks like a stellar route.

I've discovered these secret weapons for the drive home: can also help on the drive there

Yes, but they still require you to have a trail park pass at that "trailhead" (along with Eldorado too). I think the real reason they don't clear a trail through the windfall is b/c it's in a wilderness area.

I wont even mention then how many pairs of these I brought for 3 weeks in Alaska. I'm surprised both of them weren't burned upon arrival in anchorage. What ice axe are you using? You can save a full pound by getting a light (air tech racing, etc) axe compared to an REI mountain axe. Get it short too. I whole heartedly agree with the sleeping bag comments, sleep with all your clothes on and take a light bag. 2lbs max! The biggest thing that seems to contribute to overpacking early on is a big pack. If you have a 6000cu pack, you will fill it. Once I started packing "lighter", I've never needed anymore than 3000cu for winter or summer up to 3-4 days. An added benefit is that your pack can weigh in the 3lb range. Just get one with a little suspension or stiff pad so that you save your back. stoves: propane/butane doesn't work great at altitude w/ cold, but if you keep the canister warm it'll help. for big groups melting lots of water, I still like white gas. definitely buy a 2L titanium pot. fantastic piece of gear. you can save several pounds by using thin dry ropes. go 8mm, but MAKE SURE that your prussiks are 5-6mm, or they won't freakin' work! in general, be extremely picky about weight. you need to be in the mindset where each 1 oz. matters.

Yep, plenty of solid pro if you look. only need one per 50m. Ride 'em Klenke!!

They also skied the Northeast couloir the next day. Amazing awesome trip those guys had in there: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/326329/an//page/0/vc/1 but "technically" not winter

wicked!

I bet number is probably closer to 10x that. It's in Nelson #1 and each time I've been on the mountain I've seen at least two other parties on the ridge... I've gone generally the way that Ziff describes above a couple times. For sure the fastest and easiet way off the mountain (though I've never been on it w/ snow there). Just head off towards the notch from the red sling after 4 rappells. The thing I don't really understand is why people routinely solo across the ledges. Sure is easy, but's it quite loose with a death fall at any point. I generally stay roped, have a piece in once per ropelength, and travel stress free. To each their own though...

very nice guys!

Sounds familiar... I think my friends climbed the same route by accident a few years ago when intending to do razorback. can you post a pic of the NW face w/ the line on it? I'm sure it's probably been done before...

Yep. still climbed East Post and Lion's Way, but it was like winter up there. Some guys made it up the Kain route when we were there. Stay in the hut if going that late! more info

S Buttress on Cutthroat and I second yo' mama... wait, that doesn't sound quite right

We didn't cary anything more than a #2 camalot. no need. you can protect below the traverse with a small-medium cam or nut. Lots of scrambling with a few fun pitches in there

did you notice that you're also accelerating at 9.8 m/s/s????!!!??

can't beat Quazi's in Fremont for indian buffet. What will it be today.... hmmmm

Well, regardless, make sure to put your summit picture in your wallet: You know, in case any one doubts you..

I have the Quarks and now use them for everything, even though I have "old" strait shafted tools. I agree w/ Don, I just put the pick in when I can't plunge the shaft. I've done late Fall to Winter to Spring routes with my Quarks now and have not even bothered to take off the pinky rest. I love 'em.

I think that's the line that volken skied a few years ago? Looks to be in prine condition though!

The east ledges descent is fast and easy. I plan to go down it when climbing any route on the mtn. I'd imagine it still has some fresh snow on it from these storms though.

Well first off, I'd stop pitching it upside down... Then probably the lightest thing to do is spray the crap out of the bottom w/ DWR or scotchguard and patch any holes with seam grip.

awesome TR. Way to dig deep and push it to the summit. That should hold ya for a while on the alpine adventure, eh? (like, at least a whole WEEK before the memories subside...)

ben, I'm sure you can relate to having to do non-climbing things to preserve the places you like to climb in. no?