dbb

yes. just make two rappels and your down to the scrambling terrain. The second rap is off an obvious slung block

Wicked looking route. Hats off to you guys. Thanks for posting such a detailed description and pics.

fuckin' awesome Ken! Ice in Africa, nuts. looks like you got your screw caps on there rusty

If you take the sharkfin col bypass you'll have no troubles at all with moats. I don't think you'd have any trouble with the rest of the glacier or getting on to the north ridge either. just don't do the NW face at that point... the two sections will probably have loose choss between them by then.

damn, I knew I shouldn't have been licking the extra food scraps off the floor.

interesting design. I wonder if there is a u-stem patent issue that precipitated them connecting to the shaft inside the first lobe on each side. personally, I think having two attachments to the shaft (okay, no enumclaw jokes! ) like this is best for small cams as it helps to leverage on 'em when they're stuck. does look like a lot of plastic, but I guess they're just trying to protect the cables... looks like they're about as narrow as aliens too. perhaps some friendly comp?

Yep, except last night it was stopped from Index->sultan. damn traffic light. I've heard that one happens every sunday and clears up around 9pm. sucks...

bits are only $5 at the hardware store, and used bits are dull...

This time of year I bet it is all snow--which would be fun if it freezes over night. It's really just an east facing glacier that ramps up to 45-50 degrees for a couple rope lengths. I did the route in early october and found it to have some ice, some fresh snow. I bet september would be great as you wouldn't have any fresh covering the ice. In November it would be under 4-6" of fresh, but there would be ice underneath.

That looks awesome. Nice trip what time of year is it best to go in?

lots of cams are that way already. check out most of the forged friends and the larger metolius cams. You can slide the lobes around a little bit, and it does actually help with getting the graphite in there when being serviced...

send Colin to the rescue! Hope he makes it down ok.

Awesome Mark! Looks like a stellar route.

I've discovered these secret weapons for the drive home: can also help on the drive there

Yes, but they still require you to have a trail park pass at that "trailhead" (along with Eldorado too). I think the real reason they don't clear a trail through the windfall is b/c it's in a wilderness area.

I wont even mention then how many pairs of these I brought for 3 weeks in Alaska. I'm surprised both of them weren't burned upon arrival in anchorage. What ice axe are you using? You can save a full pound by getting a light (air tech racing, etc) axe compared to an REI mountain axe. Get it short too. I whole heartedly agree with the sleeping bag comments, sleep with all your clothes on and take a light bag. 2lbs max! The biggest thing that seems to contribute to overpacking early on is a big pack. If you have a 6000cu pack, you will fill it. Once I started packing "lighter", I've never needed anymore than 3000cu for winter or summer up to 3-4 days. An added benefit is that your pack can weigh in the 3lb range. Just get one with a little suspension or stiff pad so that you save your back. stoves: propane/butane doesn't work great at altitude w/ cold, but if you keep the canister warm it'll help. for big groups melting lots of water, I still like white gas. definitely buy a 2L titanium pot. fantastic piece of gear. you can save several pounds by using thin dry ropes. go 8mm, but MAKE SURE that your prussiks are 5-6mm, or they won't freakin' work! in general, be extremely picky about weight. you need to be in the mindset where each 1 oz. matters.

Yep, plenty of solid pro if you look. only need one per 50m. Ride 'em Klenke!!

check mail..

They also skied the Northeast couloir the next day. Amazing awesome trip those guys had in there: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/326329/an//page/0/vc/1 but "technically" not winter

wicked!

I bet number is probably closer to 10x that. It's in Nelson #1 and each time I've been on the mountain I've seen at least two other parties on the ridge... I've gone generally the way that Ziff describes above a couple times. For sure the fastest and easiet way off the mountain (though I've never been on it w/ snow there). Just head off towards the notch from the red sling after 4 rappells. The thing I don't really understand is why people routinely solo across the ledges. Sure is easy, but's it quite loose with a death fall at any point. I generally stay roped, have a piece in once per ropelength, and travel stress free. To each their own though...

very nice guys!

Sounds familiar... I think my friends climbed the same route by accident a few years ago when intending to do razorback. can you post a pic of the NW face w/ the line on it? I'm sure it's probably been done before...

Yep. still climbed East Post and Lion's Way, but it was like winter up there. Some guys made it up the Kain route when we were there. Stay in the hut if going that late! more info

S Buttress on Cutthroat and I second yo' mama... wait, that doesn't sound quite right