dbb

What do y'all think about 60 meters or 70 meters for double ropes? (like 8mm) most of my ropes are 60s, with maybe one light weight 50. I don't have any 70s yet. will probably use these for ice and long rock climbs/alpine rock. I don't have any good 1/2 ropes left to pair with my single lines (I just CAN NOT use that rope anymore. no. put it down!)

can you tell us how?

the fine print gets ya every time.

hahaha, I think you read his mind John. Jens- grivel hooks on the bottom of cobras?

wish they would do one of these in seattle.

riiiiiiiight now!

did you guys find any climbable ice on that thing beyond the first slab?

loren and jens did it a long time ago: http://www.cascadeclimber.com/east_face.htm

one piton for safety? nice, looks like a grantie version of Chumstick snag... only 10 times as big.

mail sent.

These have seen very little use and both tools and picks are in great shape. $150 for the pair. The strait shaft is one of the rarer carbon fiber tools where the grip is no wider than the shaft. Great tools, 1/2 an ounce lighter than quarks. Dave

In March BD is coming out with some 10mm flat (not tubular) Dynex slings that are supposidly more abrasion resistant than the Dyneema slings. I wonder if they will retain their strength longer than the Dyneema ones. They certainly felt more "solid" and similar to the Wild Country skinny slings. Still, probably shouldn't girth hitch these either...

F.E. is right. you strech the shock cord before you tie it. And I tie my tools on with shoe-lace type cord so I don't have carabiners banging around with every swing..

not a bad idea... I think a good reason is that the bunched up webbing actually keeps it from getting caught on your screws/cams/slings, etc. Accessory cord (or just shock cord) tends to easily wrap its self into that stuff.. Ade- nice! did you ever get viper strikes on the quark? I looked at one and it didn't fit. I suppose you could drill into the shaft...

that's very cool. you could also measure approaches with that. thanks john!

check yer pm's

anyone have an old pair of rambos or bionic crampons that they would like to sell? no problem if they are beat up. or trade? I have a pair of BD switchblades that I wouldn't mind trading.

"someone toss him up a Fusion!" thanks again John & Marcus for putting on a great event! And thanks to the pdx rock gym and the sponsors for making it a reality. This kind of event is really great for the popularity of the sport and for the community.

Hey Mike, do you have a link to the full explanation of the contracts? Like what "1/3rd" of routes are off limits to commercial guiding? Does this mean I can't get a guide to take me up Liberty Wall Direct!!?? One interesting change to note is no more guiding on the weekends.

I had a request for how I did this so I figured I'd write it up. How to make your own leashless umbilical cords similar to the grivel double spring: http://www.alpinedave.com/leashless_rig.htm

heated visitors center?

for northwest trad and especially alpine a lot of the rock around here has small cracks that are great for small cams. I'd add a #1 and 2 metolius TCU to the rack as those sizes come up everywhere and are not always protectable with small nuts. the 0.5 C4 (which is the same as #3 orange metolious, and yellow alien, roughly) will also be a common piece. also pick up a handful of nuts, BD #4-12 (or equivalent) is all you need.

PP- It would be great to see your picture if you can find it. ... edited to remove incorrect guessing anyhow, it was fun to get back up in there and doing it all clean was a nice bonus.

Agreed! thanks for posting Joe.

probably about 1 foot of snow on top of ice. beware of this in these conditions: http://mtnphil.com/ORock3/ORock3.html almost two years to the day..