dbb
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Everything posted by dbb
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Dude, you need to be a girl to be a: + +
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Fun meetin ya down in red rocks. good luck in spain, I'm sure you'll love it!
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The easiest seracs to reach are up on the (climber's) right side of the Nisqually. Just walk up the moraine after dropping down from Altavista and you'll come right to them. You could also do some lower-in climbing on the vertical walls of the big yawning crevasses just befor the Fan on the Nisqually. These would be totally on your way up to hazard and are pretty nice.
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check second ascent in ballard. they've had rentals before I think
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nice job al & gord! looks beautiful up there
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La sportiva boots tend to have a narrow foot bed. she should check out a pair of the Trango S or like minded boot. That being said, light hikers and strap ons work great. feet get wet, but there are socks for that...
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duudes, the real story is that he just whipped off the WI8+ section above (out of picture) back onto the "slab" WI3 section. hardman, duh
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[TR] Attempt on Cutthroat- East Couloir 4/20/2005
dbb replied to AlpinistAndrew's topic in North Cascades
anybody think this route might still be in? -
wow, that is so cool. I dunno if I'd bring it along on a climb but for steep skiing BD may have a little competition. This thing seems to cost $57 for the handle which you could put on any pole, or $62-97 for an actual pole. The whippets cost at least twice that for the pole+handle.
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From left (uphill) to right, Guru (M9) is the roof climb, then these two: left one is M7- (i hear), and the right one is RZA (M7+). There is an M6 in a shorter vertical shallow chimney with chain anchors above an obvious ledge just right of RZA. Haven't been there since the fall, but I hear there are some more M6/7 type stuff even further right. And then of course there's Ghost Dog (or something like that) which is Strong's M10/11 project at the major wall just above source lake. have fun! routes here are definitely harder when there is no verglass covering all the slabby holds.
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Never been there, don't even know what it looks like, but I'd echo bill's statements on bolting. If you're going to be putting in a cragging route, do it right. If you can hang off a tool or sky hook and put in good, thick, and long stainless bolts, by all means do it ground up. If you're trying to make (and of course, you are engineering it) a route that you want repeated, don't be caught up in the egotism of "ground up" at a crag. Just my opinion on establishing cragging routes. In the mountains it's a different story.
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cool
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are most of the bolts there wedge bolts (where you see threads sticking out of the rock) or sleeve bolts (where you see a hex-head)? With the wedge bolts you can always just mash up the threads. Sleeve bolts will probably have to be glued in?
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after having my cards stolen this last summer (first time ever leaving them in the car no less) I just smear the wallet with poop and leave it on the dash. that'll teach 'em! bwuhahahahaha
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I used an Olympus Stylus a ton back in the olden days of film. After using my stone mallot to open the case, I always found the film easy to load, provided I stretched the rabbit tendon just right. Those little cameras are pretty robust too, I had one fly off the roof of my antelope at about 20mph and hit the deck. I taped up the cracked parts with paste of pinetree and it worked great for several more moons. I'm unfamiliar what the differences are between mine and the 'Epic' version, but mine performed decently under lower light with 100 speed slide film (usually Provia). Here's a low light example taken with my old stylus of GrogcadeClimber hunting for brownies: Also, from the T4s I've seen, they appear to be significantly larger than the styluses. Color and contrast in reasonable lighting with the Olympus was great given the limitations of P&S lenses..
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is the road drivable beyond the closure or is there still a washout?
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what the frik? looks pretty good for ice in July if that near you guys ken?
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that looks reall sweet guys. no narrative from the turd needed either, nice!
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Softshell pants are great. I get the light weight ones (dynamic) so that I can layer under them in winter and still use them in summer. I had a pair of the MEC feretta pants for 4 or 5 years and ended up trashing them, but wearing them a ton. I don't think MEC makes scholler pants out of Scholler Dynamic anymore (?) just the Extreme fabric. I recently replaced my ferettas with a pair of the Arc'terryx Tweave pants (Gamma LT? I dunno) because they had the best fit of all the brands I tried. I've heard Tweave is also a much better fabric than Scholler.. so that's my vote. these pants are also on sale at mgear.com for like 140 so quite the deal too...
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what the heck is a reverse tele stance? I'm thinking about trying to modify the firn skis binding that I have (which is fixed) to have some pivot point and fix point. Let me know what you do for skins cuz I'd be interested. So far these things weight 5lbs/pair!
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yes! now stop bleeding on them, will ya?
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Don, very insightful and informative. Thanks for posting. That is the beauty of this public forum. One question, though this may be naive. How does one increase the MARGIN and decrease the retail price without investing the time and $$ to produce goods at a lower cost? I guess one alternative to outsourcing I see is: local feedback that leads to better and more targeted products that people will actually buy. I guess this assumes that your company's true margin is the collention of items, where each's contribution is weighted dependant on how popular an item is (sales) and what that particular items margin is.
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yep, I was able to d/l it but it was rather large (~8.5 megs). I thought the "full heinous cling" wipper was like 60ft? Not like I'll ever know though
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