JasonG

Kelly retired last year, and they've upgraded to Glocks (or Sigs, can't remember). Times/people change and the crowds only increase, leading to much of what we are discussing.

Nowhere, AFAIK. The map is the map is the map. I've never, ever had a ranger try to pull that one (modifying XC zones on the fly). It sounds like they were definitely in error, or at least outside of normal protocols (the weasel clause, notwithstanding).

Ouch. That's unfortunate. It's been a bit since I had a really bad ranger encounter so I was hoping things were improving. I get that some rangers get sick of dealing with tourists all day, but if you can't treat each person independently (and listen carefully!) you best find a different job. It certainly isn't helping the NPS cause to behave that way. Is it really that hard to share in the excitement of those that are seeking a permit, rather than looking for a way to shut them down? As much as I'm sure it is hard for the NCNP ranger corps to hear this, I'm glad they are checking the site.

Well, I think part of the issue is that the actual climbing rangers don't normally work the front desk (as it should be), so often you are getting permits from people that are unfamiliar with the ground that climbers travel. I don't think it is always rangers assuming we are out to wreak havoc, but certainly that is sometimes the case. Regardless, it is frustrating to have an exchange that was described above, esp. after waiting in line. Agreed on the need to assume the best and depend on enforcement to catch nefarious activity. In talking with Kelly and Kevork over the years, a big problem is that there is a lot of turnover in the seasonal ranger corps. But I think that the NPS could do a much better job of using their database to figure out if the person standing in front of them is a newbie or not. Many of us know the ground much better than them (and have been getting permits for decades)! It's been the backyard for my entire life, and I love the park just as much as anyone (how the permit system is implemented, not so much). Sorry for the drift!

Ha! And the NPS wonders why some of us do not support the expansion of NCNP.

Thanks for keeping the old-school spirit of cc.com alive Dru!

It's a classic for sure. Did they re-draw the permit map around Forbidden? It is right there under the glass, so I have a hard time understanding how you can't just point to where you are going to be camping for the night and have the map answer the question of what zone you need.

It's crazier to think how old you are Darin!

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1155246/Slesse_Conditions_2017#Post1155246

Yeah Jason and Morgan!! That looks like a grand adventure and an impressive route. Agreed on being nervous with all the hardcore climbers that walked past it.

Yeah Wayne! I can't comment on the burly Big K adventure, but for sure love that you enjoyed the Liberty Traverse. It is so cool (a classic even), and infinitely scaleable for energy and ambition. The bivy option is a nice touch. And, I feel very honored to have you link my TR on your blog!

If the snow is soft, hands and feet have a lot more surface area than a ski pole. Or are you mostly talking about controlling speed while glissading? I guess I'm struggling seeing why in softer snow you need to use a pole to arrest. And if it is harder, the whippet is a good alternative to an axe if you are skiing.

This has been on my list for a long time! Solid work, well done! Any reason you choose to go N-S? I thought the other direction would be better, though I'm not sure why.

Never thought of using my pole to arrest, interesting! If I ever slip with my pole out and no axe I've always just tossed the pole and used my hands and feet (which also works quite well). If it is too hard to arrest with hands and feet, it is time for the axe IMO. The toughest poles out there are BD Whippets, but they probably would break too if you tried to arrest with the lower section jammed into the snow. And then there is that whole pesky pick to deal with....

That is just plain crazy. I never would have imagined numbers like that up there. The couple of times I've been to Dome and Sinister it felt like one of the most lonely spots in all of the Cascades.

So how many people total up on Dome and Sinister this past weekend?

Thanks everyone! Yeah Scott, we missed you up there. And Steve, I think it was the other way around! It is certainly reasonable to travel solo up to Columbia Crest from the base of the cleaver- we traveled unroped the entire way. Descending in the heat of midday wouldn't be fun in my book, however. It has certainly been done though, so you might not think it bad. There is enough potential for rock and icefall that I thought descending the well-worn DC was much preferable. This year it is impressively broken though, crossing numerous large bridges. Perhaps later when they fall in and are spanned with ladders it might be good solo? But then the Cleaver will be mostly melted out..... (it is prime now!)

Passive aggressive crowds at Itswoot Ridge?? Beat in trail up Bachelor creek? Say it ain't so! How times change.... That's a beautiful area, and a difficult summit to reach. Nice work!

Trip: Mount Rainier - Success Cleaver Date: 6/26/2017 Trip Report: Quick conditions update for those headed to the mountain over the long holiday weekend.... Snow starts below Indian Henry's, it's about 3-4' deep at patrol cabin. Camped first night on rock slabs below Pyramid Peak ~6.3k, running water all around. Deep snow most of the way up the Cleaver, good travel generally. Knife edge portion melted out and can scramble the crest. Sunday night, stomped out platform at the 10.7k small col on crest of success cleaver. Left camp at 0230 and found generally good step kicking snow up and right in gullies merging onto Kautz Cleaver ~12.2k (no rockfall, small bits of ice falling on us). Above this, we encountered icy sections of snow where we were on front points for long sections (to about 45 degrees). Second tool helpful since we were moving un-roped on the climb to Point Success. Found weakness to sneak past final cliff below Point Success that only required a short bit of 55 degree snow/ice (~15'). We arrived at Point Success around 0700 and wandered across to Columbia Crest. Quiet morning on the mountain: saw one party topping out on the Emmons, another coming up the Kautz, one entering crater from DC and another ascending the DC as we were descending around 0900. The DC itself was amazingly sloppy at 1000, glad to have been down relatively early. As we approached Ingraham Flats, convection started rapidly building and we watched as lightning hit ridges south of the Tatoosh. A dramatic backdrop as we arrived at Muir and checked in with the ranger on duty! Rain and wind as we descended the snowfield to Paradise with the summit obscured. Good timing, I guess. As an aside, success cleaver is about the only route to the summit plateau that doesn't involve significant glacier travel. You pay, of course, starting from the westside road at only ~2600', and having to carry over (descending the cleaver not recommended). The benefit being having the mountain to yourself on a busy weekend. Highly recommended, if you do it over three days. Less would be quite punishing! Oh, and be prepared for a quick entry into urban life upon reaching Paradise. We helped several fit snowshoes for tooling around the parking lot, which was greatly entertaining (for all involved, probably). Gear Notes: Light rope, steel crampons, axe, helmet, light second tool (camp corsa nanotech perfect). Approach Notes: "Unmaintained" Tahoma creek trail is key.

Conditions and weather looks perfect for as far as the eye can see. Have fun!

You didn't miss anything Ben, I wasn't clear that the register was on Wilmans Peak, not the spire. I found the remnants of the spire register at the base, sans cap or paper. It did have a small trowel for burying poo though....

Was there much snow still on the north side rock of Torment? Good effort, it is a bit tougher to climb with packs, that's for sure! At least you got a good feel of what to expect next time, and a summit as well. Torment is a great prize in and of itself.

DAMN. That is an impressive three day effort! Having been all through that country (over many more days) I can imagine how tired you must have been cramming that into a weekend. That buttress is pretty intimidating looking, well done!

If you want to have a good trip, three days for Rainier summit, with two days spent moving up the mountain. I can't stress this enough. That and only going if the forecast is perfect (clear with <30mph winds forecast for summit). Go somewhere else in WA if the forecast sucks. Have fun! Just got back from the summit last night and the mountain is in good shape.....

To be fair, the bad section of the old road is early on. It is still worth bringing bikes, even with pushing them for a bit. There was a new road put in, but my understanding was that they obliterated it on the way out after the mine remediation work. From what we could see around Monte Cristo, this seemed to be the case. The gully to East Wilman's has TONS of snow. The NW ramp on Wilmans, however, was boney. Surprisingly so. I think it was ripped apart by climax slides this winter/spring. Yeah Scott! Warmed the hearts of Steve and I to see your names in there, and not a tech bro in sight. And you should know that us Skagitonians are way into tennis!