JasonG

Nice work ticking one of the "fearsome foursome" (the words of Dallas Kloke describing Index, J-Burg, Nooksack Tower, and Big Four). As you now know, an ascent of the North Peak is an accomplishment! I too was almost chopped by a rock on that side of the mountain, glad you and your partner's reflexes were up to the task. While the Index traverse looks intimidating from the summit of the North Peak, I think it is better than going down way you came up. The rock quality is quite reasonable, the positions magnificent, and the descent off the Main peak much better than going down the North. I really feel that it is a classic traverse, deserving of much more attention than it currently gets.

What year of Trango Alps do you have? I just got the new ones a few months ago and they have a noticeably roomier toebox than the last iteration. They are really good boot, much better than the older version. If those still don't work (I'd try them on before ruling them out based on the fit of older LS models), Scarpa are a lot roomier. Emphasis on a lot, in my experience.

Sounds like you may want to try an un-insulated boot? The Cubes are touted as being "warm".

Yep, that's where the climber's path was pre-fire.

Seriously though, thanks for the descent and timing beta- great advice that I will take to heart when I make it up to give the route another go. Years ago we were turned back in late Sept. by verglas. It is perhaps the most stunning line for its grade I've ever seen.

Shhhhhhhhhhh.....

There are always party size restrictions in wilderness areas (Snowking, Cyclone, Found, etc. are all in the Glacier Peak Wilderness): GENERAL WILDERNESS REGULATIONS Maximum party-size is 12 in a group. A group is any combination of people and pack and saddle animals. Dogs are not counted as part of the group size limit.

Interesting, but I hope you fill us in on the climbing results in some TRs!

I really need to get in there, thanks!

Wow, that is a monster of a three day trip! It was pretty hot, but at least you got stung a few times. The bear sighting is interesting, we saw a dead deer right below the col leading to the Dome Glacier back in 2003. Looked to have died of exposure and wasn't eaten. I guess it is an animal trail thru the col? Crazy.

I seriously didn't think this face would ever be climbed after seeing it from the notch on the SW route. Just looking at it scared me, since I didn't find the SW route was all that easy and it was 1/10th as steep. You guys really pulled off an impressive ascent. More importantly, I'm glad you survived!

I don't know of anywhere where group size limits are less than 12 persons/stock (am I wrong here?). Getting a weekend permit for BB or the Enchantments on the other hand.....

Not quite Bronco, I just was waiting for you to give it the Gunn treatment.

Shhhhhhhhhhh, eh.

It truly has been cleaned up a great deal by all the Bulger traffic of the past several decades. We did our share to further clean things up. It really isn't bad at all and is pretty solid if you are on route. The rap route, on the other hand, has a lot of portable holds (plus poor gear) and looks dangerous to climb (fine to descend).

That approach is no joke, I still think it is the hardest in the range- at least to a "select" route. I love, love, love that last photo of you or your partner with the Sockeye. That, more than any other, says Bear Mountain to me. Thanks for the report, I have much respect for anyone who climbs any of the north face lines on Bear (we wimped out and climbed the easy summit ridge).

Trip: Boston Peak - East Face via Quien Sabe Date: 7/30/2016 Trip Report: Is Boston a "low grade heap of ore"? Quite possibly. Is it worth climbing? Most certainly, if only for the summit register and view. There aren't many peaks that can boast such a vista, especially ones that are comfortably climbed in a day from home (It took us around 11 hours CTC with breaks and time on the summit). And it really isn't as bad as its reputation- IF you are on route. I started up the rap route and quickly realized why this was the scene of a fatality in the 1960's. Avoid. Instead, traverse farther north once off the glacier and find easy third and a short bit of fourth class that will take you to the exposed summit ridge. You're likely to have the spacious summit to yourselves as you peruse one of the best registers in the range. Three single raps will deposit you on the glacier and a bit of exposed, chossy, third class (which seems way easier on the way back) will take you to the Boston-Sahale Col, the Quien Sabe, and easy terrain back to the trail. We all remarked how nice of a day trip it was, especially since we saw the hordes jamming each other on Sahale all day while we had Boston to ourselves. A funny aside.... I saw Kevork getting onto the Quien Sabe about a week after I ran into him up in Depot Creek. He's everywhere! Gear Notes: 50-60m half rope, a few nuts/tri-cams, helmet, ice axe, Al crampons. Glacier gear. Approach Notes: Kevork says it is faster to do Boston via Cascade Pass, and I have to think he knows what he is talking about. Still, it wasn't a terribly long day RT from Boston Basin (which I had thought would be much quicker). BB trail is in fine shape. Stream crossings are a bit spicy on hot afternoons.

Mount Daniel Eldorado Ruth Mountain Mount Hinman are some other alpine feeling ideas

Love it! Looks like a great route to add to the list. These non-Cascade reports are great, keep 'em coming!

Glad you guys like the photos! And yes, you can self issue the permit in Sedro if they are closed or get it in person during normal business hours. No need to go to Marblemount. Hard to say how the moat is now....could be OK or much worse. There was a large hollow area that was going to be a lot worse before it got better. Steve- I can't swing a long trip in Sept., unfortunately. Got to save leave for the mega family camping trip!

Good question Oly, I think Klenke will allow a brief response. Custer- South ridge, 3rd/4th Rahm- SW route, 3rd/4th NW Twin Spire (AKA Easy Mox)- North Ridge, low-mid fifth SE Twin Spire (AKA Hard Mox)- SW route, mid-fifth

Awesome Darin, thanks for continuing to lead the way and share the beta for the rest of us to draft off of. Much appreciated!

You know it! Spooky, thankfully Steve was up to the task while I yelled encouragement. Porter is going to help me so hopefully you can see some pics in the next few days.

Never mind

Well, the original plan was to go into the Northern Pickets for a week, but then the weather turned and our crack team of five armchair alpinists began to unravel. Then, three of us were going to head to the Winds, but we lost the third. Then, two of us were going to head to the Tetons, but our truck broke down on the way to Snoqualmie Pass and we didn't have another road worthy rig between us. Then, the two of us were going to head into Cathedral (in my beater 1991 Civic), but the weather window got too small. And so, we found ourselves in Depot Creek (carried there by my beater Civic), going after some obscure peaks on an obscure list, best not discussed in polite conversation. Lest I anger Klenke, tyrannical king of beta, this report will be short on details but long on pictures. Some of the things that stuck out to me on our trip: • As on most Cascade outings, we had the best weather on days we hiked in and out. • The approach up Depot Creek is getting more difficult with time/lack of maintenance. • Scrambling fourth class terrain in the rain and static electricity can be surprisingly exciting. • Custer really may be the most solid peak in the Cascades • "Hard" Mox may feel a lot harder than you think it should feel.... especially if you are in a cloud • "Easy" Mox doesn't seem so easy in the face of glacial recession • Anyone who has climbed Lemolo is tough as nails • Get a permit. NCNP rangers patrol up Depot Creek and Kevork may pay you a visit. (In our case this was welcome, Steve hadn't seen Kevork since the rescue on Terror in 2009 ) • You really should see the Depot Creek Falls once in your lifetime, or four times if your success rate is similar to mine. Approach: Drive up Depot Creek as far as you dare. We made it a mile with low clearance, but you could get another mile with 4WD HC. Gear: Helmet, 60m half rope, ice axe, Al crampons