JasonG

Awesome. Been on my list for a number of years....thanks for the reminder!

Thanks for the tip! Glad you got out and enjoyed the sun....

There is a great place to camp at Klawatti col. Camped there for 4 nights years ago on a peak bagging binge. If the weather is good, it's fine. If not, nothing up there is fine (in my experience), including the Eldo bivy.

Chances are the weather/conditions will be not so great anyways at the end of October. Go for a hike in the Columbia River Gorge instead and save the summit for the spring or summer when it is in better condition. I don't think there is a good way to find MSH permits these days on the web other than trolling social media or Craigslist. There used to be a page that facilitated this but the USFS shut us down.

It is true @BK9, @sambataro and the rest of the Access Fund Crew are looking out for all of us climbers.

Cool!

Yeah, it would seem like that forum is dead. Any info on that @jon or @olyclimber?

It is too far out to know for sure about the 19th, but it appears unsettled into the extended: .LONG TERM /SUNDAY THROUGH WEDNESDAY/...Extended models in good agreement with the upper level low moving out of the area early Sunday. This is the best chance for a short dry spell with a weak and transitory upper level ridge moving through during the day. Yet another system arriving on Monday keeping the cool and wet June weather pattern intact. Yet another upper level low/trough behind the front Tuesday for more shower activity. There is some disagreement in the models Wednesday with the ECMWF kicking the trough out of the area for a dry day. The GFS does have the trough east of the area but not far enough for a dry forecast. Ensembles in both models have about 20 percent of the solutions with some light precipitation. Will keep a slight chance of showers in the forecast Wednesday. High temperatures will remain below normal through the extended period with upper 50s to lower 60s warming into the 60s by Wednesday. Lows in the mid 40s to lower 50s. Felton This time of year the Stuart range is a good backup if the high peaks are getting hit, which is often the case. Liberty Ridge is really one that you want perfect weather on (meaning clear skies AND low wind). There have been a number of accidents/fatalities over the years on that route related to poor weather. Actually, I sort of think that is true for all the volcanoes. They have a way of magnifying whatever weather is around.

No problem Nicolas, I am just trying to prevent you from running into trouble. Good weather on the big volcanoes is very important and stacks the odds in your favor. Over the years there have been a number of accidents with poor weather as a significant contributing factor.

Nice! Looks like better wedder than I would have thought. I worked on my fence in the rain. Go figure.

https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-121.76284790039062&lat=46.84657335127747 If this forecast continues I think you are going to want to rethink you plans for the PNW. Later in June or early July will likely have better weather. These mountains are not very much fun in unsettled weather, and can be quite dangerous, no matter your experience level.

And the weather looks iffy next week, at least up here. .LONG TERM /SUNDAY THROUGH WEDNESDAY/...After a break on Monday, both the GFS and Euro still show a frontal system arriving for a rainy day on Tuesday. Wednesday would probably see postfrontal showers tapering off for a day or two even as an upper trough nears the area for an increase in showers sometime in the latter part of next week. 19

Due to COVID Mount Rainier is closed above 10k, and you can't drive into the park. No estimate on re-opening. https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/conditions.htm JG

While we're at it, we should ban TRs from climbs that are too hard for most people. I don't like TRs that make me feel weak!

Another great lesson learned, thankfully without much damage.

Nice work! I'll have to go back and look at my pictures from 20 years ago but the ice cliff looks much bigger now than it was then? I need to get my mind back in the alpine mindset it would seem....

sweet!!!!

This is a very important message for those climbers who are just getting keen. It will serve them well.

Great idea for a thread! I have a some good (?) stories that I will try and post as I have time. The first that came to mind was falling unroped (with the rope) into a 'schrund on the NE couloir on Colchuck around 2000. My partner (who didn't fall in), was my soon-to-be wife.

@Max Jackson....this for sale post is from 7 years ago, so not likely!

....as in Carlos Buhler??!!

From what I gather, he traveled off trail from the road to the summit and back to the road, and didn't park at the TH. Totally legal per the MBSNF statement. Way to thread the needle!

Welcome to the party @cowolter! The great thing about the mountains of WA is that there is an objective for every ability level that will safely stretch you into a better climber. And nearly all of them will kick your ass in the process. I still feel this way after many years in these mountains, and I love them for it.

Last summer, @tylerhs01 did a pretty awesome job of it in 24 hours: