JasonG

Dan-it looks like from drawing on the link that you didn't go all the way to the very top of the main couloir on your first try (left a bit below the summit). Or am I looking at the drawing wrong?? Last year I was on the summit and looked down on the rock step immediately below the summit (I didn't think it looked too bad at the time). But, it sounds like you guys had a hell of a time trying to get past it. I guess I'm wondering if I was looking at the same rock step that thwarted you guys. My only reason for being so particular (other than I'm a dork) is that I'm thinking of heading up there this weekend to give it a go if things get cold and freeze. Thanks.

when did the ledge fall off?? I climbed it two years ago and everything was pretty cruisey. A little bit of loose rock but not too bad. I agree with everyvbody- brimg bikes and do it as a day trip.

All right . . . . sounds like a good ol' fashioned showdown. I got my money on Colin. Go get em' kid!!!!!!!!!!!

GEEZ Dan, you're a regular fixture up at Muir! Are you posting from there right now??

Headed up there this weekend with a couple of friends. Road is washed out 3.5 miles from the trailhead so we had a bit of road slogging to start it off. Lugged snowshoes but didn't need them as the snow was well consolidated the whole way up. Camped saturday night and climbed the north chute and finished via the finger traverse on Sunday. We had some attention getting traversing both on the way up and on the way back down via the terrible traverse (we pounded a few pickets in places). All in all the route is a lot more of a challenge when plastered in spring mush. Ice underneath the new snow (2-4 inches) meant we had to wear crampons even though they balled up constantly. Kind of a pain but a beautiful area and a beautiful climb. That trail is pretty damn steep though . . . .

thanks, I was afraid of that

Just wondering about the approach to Colchuck. Has anyone been up there recently and know how close you can drive to the trailhead. Thanks.

Get the REI Jungle Juice. 98% DEET and no added scents. It'll melt anything remotely synthetic and turn your lips numb, but I've never been bit (by mosquitos) while wearing it (even in AK!!). Try it and become a believer.

Arrrrgggghhhh NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! Trask has fallen to the dark side. . . .

I haven't paid a couple of 'em and have yet to hear from anyone. But I guess my credit could be going south as we speak . .. .

Also when you are sleeping on snow an important thing (as important as how warm your bag is) is how good of insulation you have below you. Two pads (closed cell and a thermarest, or two closed cell) are a must for wintertime camping IMHO. Even if you have a minus -20 bag with a thin or crappy pad, you'll still probably be cold. But I always reserve the right to be wrong . . .

because you can go a hell of a lot farther (with much less effort) on skis than snowshoes. If you have ever tried to keep up with a pack of people on AT/tele gear while on snowshoes you'll know why split boards are the ticket for backcountry snowboarding.

Have ridden the burton a fair bit, and having owned the Voile, I'd say the Voile was the way to go. In typical Cascade conditons, the Burton sucks big time!!! It rides well enough, but getting the board together is sometimes next to impossible. I consistently have to wait 10-15 minutes for my friends with the Burtons, and only with two of us working on it are we able to lock it together. This is in typical winter conditons. In the spring time the burton goes together much easier. Still, there are other problems with the Burton. It isn't nearly as durable and the heel risers have the annoying tendency to flop down on long ascents. The only way to fix it is to stop, take the binding apart and bend the heel riser back in place. A very poor design all around compared to the Voile. But everyone must realize, that no matter what split boards will never perform as well as tele/AT gear. Too wide to traverse well, and quite bad on rolly terrain (doesn't ski that well when split). Anyways, that's my two cents . . .

Mainly because I like to enjoy the view for more than a few rushed minutes. A pack really isn't that heavy when all you take is a down bag, bivy sack, light rack, stove, etc. My 3000 cubic inch day pack has gone for four-day alpine traverses (like the Buckner, Logan combo) when I've packed light, plus you get more chances for cool pictures. To each his own, though. . . .

Not to offend anyone, but what hell is with all this banter?? Aren't most of us wannabees who are doing routes pioneered 30+ years ago?? Is doing them in a single push important enough to spray endlessly about?? Basically it boils down to getting out in the hills more, getting in better shape, etc., etc., and babbling online less (myself included). This thread is starting to sound like a poor rendition of "Extreme Alpinism".

Descent-Coming off of Buckner into Horseshoe basin. Bad slide alder interspersed with cliff bands. A close second would be the descent to Baker Lake from Mount Blum. Steep, brushy, 6000 vertical feet of brutality

I'd have to say the Columbia Mountains of BC first, followed by the Southern Alps, followed by the real Alps . . . Patagonia is too hard and scary (for a wannabe like me).

Why would anyone want to work at REI?? I did for a short bit and found absolutely no reason to stay. Yeah, you get cheap gear but at what mental price?? Let's see, mind numbing work, low pay, and no respect=dead end! Get a real job and then you can buy anything you want with all that cold hard cash that you couldn't possibly earn at REI. Plus, then you are free to spray away at them for all of their ignorance . . .

GEEZ! Everybody was on Hood yesterday. I was with a friend on the Leuthold and had a blast (we were the two yahoos in MEC gear). Not quite as hard as I was expecting (Still fun though), so maybe next time it'll be the Reid headwall (or the Sandy). Now if only we could make to order another weekend like that . . . heinie

Traversing icy snow isn't that much fun with a split board due to its width. Possibly with stiffer boots (Dynafit, etc) and plate bindings it might be easier. Voile and Burton both sell crampons that are supposed to make traversing icy stuff easier. Haven't tried them yet . . .

Quit your useless hiking and get a split board! I did and haven't looked back. The burton is not as durable (tried it out for awhile last year), and the binding system is kind of a pain. The burton skins are way better than the Voile (full length skins that attach to tip and tail, Voile's only attach on the tips). Still, I've been pleased with this year's Voile 173. Just about as fast as tele/AT gear on the way up and much faster on the way down. Plus you can use you plastic boots in whatever two-strap binding you have and it works fine (if you want to approach a climb for example). Just my two cents . . .

What difficulty are the mixed pitches between the notch and the summit of NEWS? Beckey book is not quite handy right now at work . . . . Thanks

Snafflehounds are another name for the bushy tailed wood-rat. If you have ever been molested by these bastards you'll never confuse them with pikas. Much bigger, meaner, and uglier. They'll destroy gear faster than you can say snafflehound! I'm serious too, if you don't believe me, just bivy at Burgundy Col and find out for yourselves.

With all the inept blather on this topic (Don't you people have other websites you can ramble incoherently on???) this response will probably get lost in the mayhem. No, I don't think there will be enough melting this week to put the north ridge of stuart into summer-like condition. If you are looking for more of a wet and snowy spring-like adventure, though, I think it would work.

North Ridge-lots of snow and wintery looking. Serpentine arete-quite a bit of snow on the lower ledges then snow bits all the way to the top. This info is as of yesterday 5/21 as we rambled up dragontail and colchuck. Both routes are still a bit early if you are looking for dry rock and warm feet.