JasonG

I've done it a few times and I think the east ledges are a fine way down - I wasn't asking about people's opinion of the best way down, just wondering if there were still snow patches on the the ledges after the raps. Thanks for any info.

Just wondering if anyone has been down the ledges recently . . .Thinking of taking my wife up the west ridge this week and was curious about conditions on the east side descent (still snowy??). I'm trying to figure out which descent she would find most "fun" this time of year . . .Any info would be appreciated!!!! Cheers, Jason

With the good forecast, a friend suggested trying Silvertip Peak off of the Sumallo Rd. Just wondering if others have done this and liked it. And, if you have been in there in the winter time, were skis or snowshoes better (given relatively firm conditions)? Would it be too far for a longish day trip?? Anyways, thanks for any and all info!! I realize that there is probably a bunch of info on Bivouac, but I am not a member . . .Thanks! Cheers, Jason

Just wondering if the north aspects are still worth skiing . . .I'm assuming that south facing slopes are breakable crust and ice? Any first hand info would be appreciated. Thanks! Jason

Based on Alex's fine TR, and armed only with a printout of the TR, I took my wife and a friend up Burgundy yesterday. We had a blast and I was able to pin down the routefinding perfectly with the help of his descriptions and pictures. Our time was about an hour and a half longer, but we aren't too good, fast, or tough- many breaks were the theme of the day. It had been on my list for awhile, so I'm thankful for the TR to remind me to get out and get it done. A great route to fine vantage point. Thanks again! Jason

Juan et al . . . Sorry, I haven't checked back in awhile. We did the full ridge without the ice of the NW face of the north ridge. It was very icy looking with some rock cliffs to deal with down low, more than we wanted to bite off without real ice gear. The lower part of the north ridge is mostly 4th class with some bits of 5th up to maybe 5.6 (at least that is what Beckey says), but nothing too sustained or tricky. Good edges for boots too. Pro is great and there is one knife edge section in particular that is absolutely spectacular. You would miss that if you did the NW ice face, but I agree that it does look like it is worth doing, just maybe with a little more snow (for a wimp like me). Access to the face is looking pretty spicy right now, but I'm sure that it is still climbable for those looking for a challenge. Now I just need to go back and do the NW face (of Forbidden) rock route- that looks superb!!! Anyone done it?? Jason

Climb: Forbidden-North Ridge Date of Climb: 8/21/2005 Trip Report: Well, this isn't going to be much of a TR as AlpineDave wrote quite a nice one last year, and I don't really have much to add. It's a great route! This is mainly for those who are heading in that direction and would like to know what conditions are like. Here's a couple of quick notes: . .. I would highly recommend the alternate route over Sharfin col, no worse than fourth class and a single rap almost gets you to the snow. The glacier is melting fast, so we had to do a little bit of fourth class to get onto the Boston Glacier proper. . . .The Boston Glacier is VERY broken right now. We barely found a way that worked, and if a few key bridges melt out (likely within a week or two) all bets are off. To us this was the crux of the route, with some sketchy bridge shenanigans. There were a few instances where we thought we were going to have to turn around and hike back out. We were glad to have three people. . . .We didn't have a problem getting onto the ridge and the bivy sites at the notch were nice, if a bit exposed and windy. We hauled snow for melting from the Boston Glacier. . . . .The east ledges descent seems to be set up right now for 60m ropes (or we missed some stations). A couple of the raps took all of our rope, but you could downclimb if your rope was shorter. I think our times were about 7.5 hrs to the bivy, 5 hours on route, and 5.5 hours to the cars from the summit. We aren't super alpinists, so others might be able to blast it in a day (we took two). All in all, this is one of the more fun routes I've done in the Cascades: Awesome scenery, decent rock, and wild exposure- you couldn't ask for more! Jason Gear Notes: Crampons, axe, 60m rope, medium alpine rack (to get longer simul-pitches). Approach Notes: The whole deal.

Just wondering if anyone has any experience in a similarly dry year . . .I'm mainly curious about moats around Sharfkin Col and any problems negotiating the Boston Gl or getting on the ridge itself. Thanks for any info!! Jason

That was us! The rest of the parties showed up much later in the day. You guys were cruising the Rib! Nice work.

There is still snow at the major bivy spot where the Direct and Bypass routes meet, and it might even be there another week- no promises though. As has been said before, the Pocket Glacier is pretty much gone and it is really easy to get on the climb. If you are dropping off a vehicle at the regular route TH, you might want something that has more clearance than a CIVIC or a Golf (our off road vehicles of choice), there's some pretty big (for a 2WD) waterbars in the last few kilometers. And has been posted before, with 2WD you do about another 4K of walking on the Nesakwatch Creek side. The new trail to Slesse is obvious . . .but didn't seem to have a sign, just a cairn. Hats off to Alex and Jens for a fine speedy ascent, it was cool watching them casually flying up the buttress. Thanks to everyone else we met (they aren't joking when they say 50 Crowded Climbs) for any enjoyable bivy (8 people shared the ledge!!) and a fun climb. Hopefully everyone had a good time on day 2 .. . and got through that hellishly steep descent in one piece. Jason

For those who may be headed in there soon . . . No snow getting to Goat pass, plenty of snow on Stuart Glacier- no slots enroute to the access gully- - crampons and ice axe are nice to have. Gully has a fair bit of snow still, but we scrambled rock on the marigin easily. Snow helps getting over the chockstone near the top. A couple of bivy sites are melted out, several are still covered in snow at the notch. The ridge up to the gendarme is completely dry and fun, looks to still be a bit of snow and ice (probably not too hard to work around) on the traverse below the gendarme. We went up the gendarme and only encountered the odd snow patch en route to the summit-easily avoided. Ice axe and crampons handy for the descent, although you coul avoid the snow if you were determined. Quite a good route- I was impressed. Cheers, Jason

Just wondering if anyone has first or second hand knowledge . . .Thanks!!! Jason

Thanks much . . .

Do you have to do some fun river hiking to get to the Statlu Lake TH (or can you still get there with an 4WD)?? Some of those pictures look mighty sucky!! Thanks! JG

Thanks for writing this up Dan, and thanks to everyone for taking a gamble on a stranger. It was a fun trip with great company! In the spirit of the weekend, I want to let everyone know that "I may not climb hard, but at least I'm a member of the Mountaineers." And Juan- Cruiser also rhymes with boozer . . .Maybe there's a place for cc.comers after all. Cheers-Jason

Yup, it happened to my wife and we even had a parking pass! We just forgot to hang it in the window. I sent a letter explaining what happened, but it didn't get connected to the violation because the car was registered under her maiden name. Anywho, to make a long story short . .. we went traveling for two months and returned to find a court summons in our mail box, arngry voicemails from the US Attornys office asking why we didn't show up in court (in Wenatchee no less), and, finally, a letter telling my wife that there was a warrant out for her arrest!!!! We finally got is sorted out, but man, I love to see my tax dollars at work like that. Sheesh!

Just wondering what those who own a pair think of them. Warm enough for Canadian Rockies Ice? Is the thermo liner the way to go?? If you hate them, what else would you recommend? Thanks!

How hard is the pillar?? WI3? . . Thanks for any info!

We had this great route all to ourselves yesterday! Really, really safe (lots o' bolts), varied and fun climbing. Right now there is no snow on the approach after leaving the Icicle road. Watch out for ticks, and crazy locals looking to talk your ears off. It felt like 70 degrees in the sun yesterday. And this is still winter??

FYI . . . Should this be a sticky?? PHOTOS SOUGHT FOR GLACIER RESEARCH Researchers at Portland State University are seeking photographs of alpine glaciers in the Lower 48, particularly historic or current photos that show the terminus (snout) of the glacier with the surrounding landscape in late summer. Andrew Fountain of the university's Department of Geology, writes, "We intend to compare photos of the same glacier, but taken over different times, to infer the magnitude of glacier advance or retreat. This is part of a project to assess glacier change over the past 100+ years. We will make the data derived from the photos available to all using our web site: www.glaciers.us." For more information or to make arrangements to deliver photos, contact Fountain at Andrew@pdx.edu . Portland State is cooperating with another fascinating collection of historical glacier photographs at the National Snow and Ice Data Center/World Data Center for Glaciology. These photographs are primarily of Alaskan glaciers but also include the Pacific Northwest, the Rocky Mountains, and Europe. Many of the photographs in this remarkable collection have been digitized and can be viewed online. Go to http://nsidc.org/data/glacier_photo/photo_query.html to check out your favorite glacier.

My wife and I spent the month of November in the Khumbu. We went through BKK and flew Thai airways (highly recommended), and visited some southern beaches just before all hell broke loose. Nepal and KTM felt really safe, we only had a few tense run ins with Maoists on the trail (on the section from Jiri to Lukla). We paid our "donation" and were on our way . . . From what I gather, things are not terribly different today. This is the best website I've found for up to the minute information: http://www.raonline.ch/pages/story/np_mao0c.html Hope this helps!

Climb: The Brothers-Normal route to South Summit Date of Climb: 2/21/2005 Trip Report: Just a quick update for those interested in condtions of the eastern olympics. In a word: DRY!!!! My wife and I caught the ferry over from Keystone Sunday afternoon and made the leisurely drive to the Lena lake TH. We were a little disappointed at the mass of cars and the numerous parties signed in to climb the brothers, but shouldered our packs and set off anyway. We left the cars about 2:45 pm A snowless hike brought us to lower lena lake and gun toting locals. Quickly using the restroom (with TP!), we continued up in patchy snow to the normal camping spot in the valley of the silent men. We pitched out tent on less than 1 inch of snow, cooked a good dinner, and were in bed early. Setting out the next morning at 6:30 we didn't see much in the way of continous snow, a common theme of the weekend. The good news is that there is a pretty good climber's path to follow, meaning routefinding was real easy. An hour of hiking or so brought us to the main southern gully and the start of the normal route. From here you can see up towards the summit and we were shocked by the sight! Conditions looked like late July and not late February. No snow on most of the route, with only patchy snow in the gullies. So linking patches of snow and easy scrambling, we steadily made our way up the route, only slightly getting off-route near the top (we should have stayed farther right). Total time to summit was a little over four hours, arriving around 11am. What a view!! I had climbed the Brothers before, but didn't get to see anything. It might have one of the more expansive views of any mountain I've climbed: Candadian Coast range, all the Washington volcanos, Mt Hood, Puget Sound, downtown Seattle, Lk Washington, not to mention most of the major Olympic peaks. We stayed for an hour admiring the view and warm, windless weather, and were sorry to have to leave. Retracing our route back down, along with packing up and hiking out, consumed the rest of the day for us. We arrived just at dark at the cars, without the need for headlamps (it was close though). All in all, a fun winter weekend with the wife!! The only thing is, on warm days, make sure to wear your helmet in the main gully- we saw a good bit of rockfall! And you may want some body armor when traveling past lower lena lake -we had to yell "hold your fire" to some kids shooting (we felt) wildly from one of the lakeshores. Sheesh! Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet Approach Notes: Patchy snow the whole way, never gets deep!

North aspects in the Baker BC were sweeeeeeeet today! Anything else was a major crust fest. Just a little update for those who might be headed up . . .

Thanks for the info everyone. The weather has made the decision a bit easier . . . Mt Baker BC skiing it will be!! Cheers Jason

Just wondering what some of those more local than myself think of conditions in the Whistlerish backcountry right now . .. Any opinions or direct experience??? Thanks!! Jason