JasonG

All my sponser requires is 40 hours of work a week-It's even indoors so I don't have to worry about the weather. I'll bet those Black Diamond guys are jealous . . .

Talking with some friends that climbed Sahale last weekend the road is open to the Eldorado trailhead (I think, but ask Geordie). Forbidden looked mighty alpine last weenkend with plenty of rime ice, but I assume that all the warm temps have melted most of that off. Have fun!

It was bad shape a few weeks ago. I doubt if the heat wave is helping any . . .

"cunt as a fatality" Now that sounds really gross . . . .

Oh, and I don't think those that died did most of the step kicking. Most of the new snow fell in the storm that killed them. We saw that there were about 25 climbers ahead of us climbing the route on Friday and Saturday. That was who I intended to thank and was not trying to make some underhanded jab at those who perished.

Idiot?? Are YOU guys serious?? People died, true. That does not change the fact the route is in great shape to climb right now. The weather was nice and we had a fun climb. I am sorry about what happened in the few days before our climb, however I am not sorry that we climbed it. What's up with the name calling????????? Calm down and go climb something while the weather is still good.

The route is in prime condition right now. A party of four of us climbed it the last few days and had about as perfect of a trip as could be imagined. Mostly steep snow with bucket steps (thanks, whomever is responsible!), but with enough neve and ice to make things interesting. A nice trail is worked in all the way to Thumb rock, so route finding on the glaciers is pretty darn easy. I'd never been on that side of Rainier before and I was pretty blown away by the position of the route. Completely classic in every respect!! We had perfect weather and almost no wind, all in all making the trip one of my very best. On another note, It looks like the snow pack on the route (above Thumb Rock) is very thin and will melt away mostly to ice in the next few weeks if we have some warm weather. This will make things probably quite a bit tougher that what we experienced.

Came down it this weekend after Liberty Ridge. The Emmons is in great climbing shape with only one sketchy crevasse crossing (there is probably a good way around it-we were tired). Skiing would be quite icy unless it was a really hot day. We talked to some skiers that said it wasn't very good and really icy. We wore crampons down to about 9500' even though we didn't come down till the afternoon.

Dan-it looks like from drawing on the link that you didn't go all the way to the very top of the main couloir on your first try (left a bit below the summit). Or am I looking at the drawing wrong?? Last year I was on the summit and looked down on the rock step immediately below the summit (I didn't think it looked too bad at the time). But, it sounds like you guys had a hell of a time trying to get past it. I guess I'm wondering if I was looking at the same rock step that thwarted you guys. My only reason for being so particular (other than I'm a dork) is that I'm thinking of heading up there this weekend to give it a go if things get cold and freeze. Thanks.

when did the ledge fall off?? I climbed it two years ago and everything was pretty cruisey. A little bit of loose rock but not too bad. I agree with everyvbody- brimg bikes and do it as a day trip.

All right . . . . sounds like a good ol' fashioned showdown. I got my money on Colin. Go get em' kid!!!!!!!!!!!

GEEZ Dan, you're a regular fixture up at Muir! Are you posting from there right now??

Headed up there this weekend with a couple of friends. Road is washed out 3.5 miles from the trailhead so we had a bit of road slogging to start it off. Lugged snowshoes but didn't need them as the snow was well consolidated the whole way up. Camped saturday night and climbed the north chute and finished via the finger traverse on Sunday. We had some attention getting traversing both on the way up and on the way back down via the terrible traverse (we pounded a few pickets in places). All in all the route is a lot more of a challenge when plastered in spring mush. Ice underneath the new snow (2-4 inches) meant we had to wear crampons even though they balled up constantly. Kind of a pain but a beautiful area and a beautiful climb. That trail is pretty damn steep though . . . .

thanks, I was afraid of that

Just wondering about the approach to Colchuck. Has anyone been up there recently and know how close you can drive to the trailhead. Thanks.

Get the REI Jungle Juice. 98% DEET and no added scents. It'll melt anything remotely synthetic and turn your lips numb, but I've never been bit (by mosquitos) while wearing it (even in AK!!). Try it and become a believer.

Arrrrgggghhhh NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! Trask has fallen to the dark side. . . .

I haven't paid a couple of 'em and have yet to hear from anyone. But I guess my credit could be going south as we speak . .. .

Also when you are sleeping on snow an important thing (as important as how warm your bag is) is how good of insulation you have below you. Two pads (closed cell and a thermarest, or two closed cell) are a must for wintertime camping IMHO. Even if you have a minus -20 bag with a thin or crappy pad, you'll still probably be cold. But I always reserve the right to be wrong . . .

because you can go a hell of a lot farther (with much less effort) on skis than snowshoes. If you have ever tried to keep up with a pack of people on AT/tele gear while on snowshoes you'll know why split boards are the ticket for backcountry snowboarding.

Have ridden the burton a fair bit, and having owned the Voile, I'd say the Voile was the way to go. In typical Cascade conditons, the Burton sucks big time!!! It rides well enough, but getting the board together is sometimes next to impossible. I consistently have to wait 10-15 minutes for my friends with the Burtons, and only with two of us working on it are we able to lock it together. This is in typical winter conditons. In the spring time the burton goes together much easier. Still, there are other problems with the Burton. It isn't nearly as durable and the heel risers have the annoying tendency to flop down on long ascents. The only way to fix it is to stop, take the binding apart and bend the heel riser back in place. A very poor design all around compared to the Voile. But everyone must realize, that no matter what split boards will never perform as well as tele/AT gear. Too wide to traverse well, and quite bad on rolly terrain (doesn't ski that well when split). Anyways, that's my two cents . . .

Mainly because I like to enjoy the view for more than a few rushed minutes. A pack really isn't that heavy when all you take is a down bag, bivy sack, light rack, stove, etc. My 3000 cubic inch day pack has gone for four-day alpine traverses (like the Buckner, Logan combo) when I've packed light, plus you get more chances for cool pictures. To each his own, though. . . .

Not to offend anyone, but what hell is with all this banter?? Aren't most of us wannabees who are doing routes pioneered 30+ years ago?? Is doing them in a single push important enough to spray endlessly about?? Basically it boils down to getting out in the hills more, getting in better shape, etc., etc., and babbling online less (myself included). This thread is starting to sound like a poor rendition of "Extreme Alpinism".

Descent-Coming off of Buckner into Horseshoe basin. Bad slide alder interspersed with cliff bands. A close second would be the descent to Baker Lake from Mount Blum. Steep, brushy, 6000 vertical feet of brutality

I'd have to say the Columbia Mountains of BC first, followed by the Southern Alps, followed by the real Alps . . . Patagonia is too hard and scary (for a wannabe like me).