JasonG

Nice work! The 1951 route sounds like it may be a bit (on J'berg, everything is relative) better than the 1957 line that most (myself included) do. I'm sure my partner would've agreed as he launched out of the chimney clutching a TV sized block en route to a 40' leader fall (as a piece pulled). An old pin arrested his fall but not before he broke three ribs. He was a tough SOB though, and made it out under his own power (although we didn't get out till the middle of the night, the next day), whereupon we drove him straight to the hospital. Oh, and that was the weekend that Giardia hit me full force for the first time. Good times! Quite the bivy, eh??

Juan- Ha!!! The approach was also hot, but at least I was out of shape. Trickery is important, but not nearly as much as having a VERY understanding wife. Tom- considering your climbs as of late, this would be pretty darn mellow. I think you'd enjoy it.

Sweet deal on the Stubai's: http://store.everestgear.com/421100.html?productid=421100&channelid=FROOG

Trip: Chimney Rock - East Face Direct Date: 7/17/2010 Trip Report: I'm getting soft, no two ways about it. Armed with Klenke's excellent annotated photos and description (search TRs), Chris and I marched in there this past weekend and were humbled a bit. 4th and low to mid-5th? Psssssht, no problem. While it isn't very difficult, I found the dirty, compact rock less than enjoyable at times, with some fairly long run-outs on 5th class terrain. It didn't help that the moat and snow patches gave us trouble with wetness and access issues. Did I mention that I'm soft? The last 300-400 hundred feet of the face is pretty fun, and has better pro. Bring a fair bit of webbing as this doesn't get climbed much and the stations need some maintenance. We beefed up some, but ran out of webbing (used 30')- I think we did 8-10 raps with a 60m rope and scrambled a bit between. I've wondered for years how Mr. Potterfield ran into trouble on this face, now I understand. It's "easy", but it could also easily ruin your day. OK, enough whining, here are some photos- it is a beautiful, off-the-beaten track type of climb. The massive avalanche swath you go up to the right of to access the peak. The North peak is seriously impressive. Has this face been repeated? Looks full value. The East Face of Chimney Rock Steep snow on the 3rd class ledge. Dirty, compact goodness. Somewhere in this photo are Steph, Jason and Steve. Hi! A picturesque rap. North peak of Chimney Rock in the background Fun moat action. WhoHoo, crossed that off the list. Chilling at Pete Lake with Lemah in the background. Gear Notes: 60m half rope, small gear, webbing. "Bring some thin pins and don't expect to be back for tea". Just kidding, but they may be useful. Approach Notes: We did a 2.5 day trip which allowed plenty of time for whining. Follow Klenke.

Ah yes, brings back memories! Good idea camping in the basin rather than at the col, wish we'd have done that. I'm sure after the Index Traverse, you were more than prepared. Such a comfortable summit, and such a nice view, almost makes you want to go back again . . .almost. Thanks for the report!

Oh well . . .strange spring we had. Thanks for the info!!

Did the NW face look very snowy??

Awesome to see Mr. Sharp back on the sharp end. Rumors of his (climbing) demise were greatly exaggerated I guess . . .Wicked Sick!

BTW, I would really like to see a TR or some beta on the traverse of the Mac spires- sounds pretty wicked sick. Wayne? Mario?

Tim got a new pack!!!!?????? It's a miracle! Next thing you know he'll be kissing Ruby goodbye and cruising in an outback. Nice work gents, I'm jealous as usual. Changing diapers isn't nearly as glamorous. . .but maybe I'm working on my ability to handle mountain stench? JG

Nice work Kurt! Hard to believe it's been five years, eh? I have fond memories of that climb- esp. Juan saying "you get the cruxes- I have kids." Now, two kids later, I get it. Hopefully we'll get out together in the hills again one of these days . . . JG

An FYI Josh- Don't write about illegally camping at Cascade Pass. That is unless you want an email from "the man" (in this case a woman) in Marblemount. The rangers don't have much of a sense of humor . . .trust me.

I didn't notice it, but I wasn't looking much that way . . .I agree that there are some impressive walls on the east side of Kangaroo ridge! You wouldn't think so looking from the highway . . .

Ah, knew I was missing something simple! Thanks!!

In my experience, beware the off-brand batteries (at least for canon). They work OK for a few months, then go to hell rather quickly and won't hold a charge. Unfortunately, I guess you get what you pay for.

My photos still display smallish, even when I upload them full size. Not sure if you were talking to John or myself . . . .

I agree that a couple slings would probably be OK, but 3-4 med. nuts and tri-cams are pretty light and give the less bold some peace of mind. To each their own though. Bottom line is that I would highly recommend going straight up the rib under the nest of rap webbing rather than scrambling further climber's right on loose but easier rock (I've done both). OK, we've really beat that short bit of 5th class to death! I'm done, I swear.

Oh, and you only need a 37m glacier rope if you don't mind climbing 5th class on a skinny. The 18m rap off the summit will get you to scrambly terrain that isn't too bad to downclimb. I didn't seem to remember needing big gear like described above, and it is a long way to haul a hand sized cam/hex . . . . JG

Bring a couple nuts/tri-cams and climb the rap route on the true summit- much more solid and only low fifth class. Camp on the snow dome (by the glacier research hut- dry flat sites) if you have an extra day and go over to the middle peak. Sunsets over the pacific from the summit(s) or the dome are well worth hauling the gear up high. And build a huge fire at the Guard shack camp (9 miles in?), just to make the rangers nervous- they need some excitement. Have fun, it is most certainly a NW classic.

Awesome, thanks! I have a date with that part of the cascades, but it will have to wait till next summer when I don't have a newborn in the house. . . your beta is much appreciated. JG

As others have said, nice work! I had an approach question: Did you cross Agnes Creek a little farther north than what Beckey describes? I know you have been in there several times, so I was wondering if the line you drew on the map was (in your opinion) the best way . . .Thanks for any info!! Cheers, Jason

I don't know whether to laugh or cry. C'mon, that is just plain ridiculous. . . . Well, I suppose I shouldn't be envious, my looks and skills are a better match for the Cascades- I wouldn't fit in anyway.

More like 6 miles I think . . .good wide tread the whole way. Not sure if it is legal to bike.

A few more photos, although I didn't take very many as we were trying to race the softening snow . . . Steve in the middle of the gully- Cutthroat from the top of the gully- Looking towards Black Pk, and entering winter conditions on the north side of the ridge- On the summit- I made this sign up beforehand for Steve, thinking we were going to have to hitch a ride. How could anyone refuse to pick up a clean-cut, active duty officer (even if he might need a shower)?

OK, some pictures: Creek crossing near the haripin- Liberty Bell and Whistler- Booting up with expanding views- Starting to get steep and scenic- Dallas at the base of Mushroom Tower. Knickers and red wool socks, doesn't get any more classy than that! Mushroom tower, Dallas, Mark, on the steeper (and softer) than it looked traverse over to Big Kangaroo. Dallas assured us it is much better without snow- The man with the plan, on his 50th year of climbing! The view east to the Gardners- Dallas on the final summit block of Big Kangaroo-