JasonG

BTW, I would really like to see a TR or some beta on the traverse of the Mac spires- sounds pretty wicked sick. Wayne? Mario?

Tim got a new pack!!!!?????? It's a miracle! Next thing you know he'll be kissing Ruby goodbye and cruising in an outback. Nice work gents, I'm jealous as usual. Changing diapers isn't nearly as glamorous. . .but maybe I'm working on my ability to handle mountain stench? JG

Nice work Kurt! Hard to believe it's been five years, eh? I have fond memories of that climb- esp. Juan saying "you get the cruxes- I have kids." Now, two kids later, I get it. Hopefully we'll get out together in the hills again one of these days . . . JG

An FYI Josh- Don't write about illegally camping at Cascade Pass. That is unless you want an email from "the man" (in this case a woman) in Marblemount. The rangers don't have much of a sense of humor . . .trust me.

I didn't notice it, but I wasn't looking much that way . . .I agree that there are some impressive walls on the east side of Kangaroo ridge! You wouldn't think so looking from the highway . . .

Ah, knew I was missing something simple! Thanks!!

In my experience, beware the off-brand batteries (at least for canon). They work OK for a few months, then go to hell rather quickly and won't hold a charge. Unfortunately, I guess you get what you pay for.

My photos still display smallish, even when I upload them full size. Not sure if you were talking to John or myself . . . .

I agree that a couple slings would probably be OK, but 3-4 med. nuts and tri-cams are pretty light and give the less bold some peace of mind. To each their own though. Bottom line is that I would highly recommend going straight up the rib under the nest of rap webbing rather than scrambling further climber's right on loose but easier rock (I've done both). OK, we've really beat that short bit of 5th class to death! I'm done, I swear.

Oh, and you only need a 37m glacier rope if you don't mind climbing 5th class on a skinny. The 18m rap off the summit will get you to scrambly terrain that isn't too bad to downclimb. I didn't seem to remember needing big gear like described above, and it is a long way to haul a hand sized cam/hex . . . . JG

Bring a couple nuts/tri-cams and climb the rap route on the true summit- much more solid and only low fifth class. Camp on the snow dome (by the glacier research hut- dry flat sites) if you have an extra day and go over to the middle peak. Sunsets over the pacific from the summit(s) or the dome are well worth hauling the gear up high. And build a huge fire at the Guard shack camp (9 miles in?), just to make the rangers nervous- they need some excitement. Have fun, it is most certainly a NW classic.

Awesome, thanks! I have a date with that part of the cascades, but it will have to wait till next summer when I don't have a newborn in the house. . . your beta is much appreciated. JG

As others have said, nice work! I had an approach question: Did you cross Agnes Creek a little farther north than what Beckey describes? I know you have been in there several times, so I was wondering if the line you drew on the map was (in your opinion) the best way . . .Thanks for any info!! Cheers, Jason

I don't know whether to laugh or cry. C'mon, that is just plain ridiculous. . . . Well, I suppose I shouldn't be envious, my looks and skills are a better match for the Cascades- I wouldn't fit in anyway.

More like 6 miles I think . . .good wide tread the whole way. Not sure if it is legal to bike.

A few more photos, although I didn't take very many as we were trying to race the softening snow . . . Steve in the middle of the gully- Cutthroat from the top of the gully- Looking towards Black Pk, and entering winter conditions on the north side of the ridge- On the summit- I made this sign up beforehand for Steve, thinking we were going to have to hitch a ride. How could anyone refuse to pick up a clean-cut, active duty officer (even if he might need a shower)?

OK, some pictures: Creek crossing near the haripin- Liberty Bell and Whistler- Booting up with expanding views- Starting to get steep and scenic- Dallas at the base of Mushroom Tower. Knickers and red wool socks, doesn't get any more classy than that! Mushroom tower, Dallas, Mark, on the steeper (and softer) than it looked traverse over to Big Kangaroo. Dallas assured us it is much better without snow- The man with the plan, on his 50th year of climbing! The view east to the Gardners- Dallas on the final summit block of Big Kangaroo-

Forbidden east ledges descent is still VERY snowy . . saw it pretty plainly from Big Kangaroo on Sunday. I'd bet there are still snowy/wet/icy bits on the various ridges.

Thanks for a great day out Dallas! I'll have to go back for Melted. I will try and get some photos up soon . . .stay tuned. JG

Do tell . . .

Thanks for the write-up Steve! I'll try and add some photos in the next day or two. And for the record, I was whining too, but couldn't do much about it except to keep going. It would have been bad form to go for a long ride on my first outing after baby #2. Kurt-your friend was OK? How far did they get swept? Very scary, and one of the reasons I keep putting off that route between N & S early. Scott- Catch dem fishies so you can get back to the hills pronto!

WA pass is going to be very dangerous this weekend. I would stay clear.

Not that you want to hear it now, Kyle, but some friends battled through thigh deep slop during a heat wave last spring and found OK conditions in the NE couloir proper. It is shady and steep enough that it seems to be fairly firm even when the slopes below are slop. Nice effort though- that is a baking slog over to Colchuck without skis!

Likely sold, but I'll post back if it falls through. Jason

MSR heat exchanger, brand new, never been used- $20 MSR MiniWorks Water Filter- $40 This is hardly used and a couple years old (still have parts, bag, instructions, etc.), but seemingly identical to the one in the link below. I'm in Mount Vernon but could drive them north or south for a serious buyer. http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3664338