JasonG

Just a heads up that this is TOMORROW NIGHT. Hope to see a bunch of yous there!

Does anyone know where the Kloke lines are in the photo? The description in red Fred seems to indicate that they are somewhere on that face . . . but I could be misinterpreting it.

Howdy Folks- In case anyone is interested in an inexpensive mountaineering class, our club will begin a class at Skagit Valley College soon. Here's the page with more info (it will be updated soon, I promise): http://www.skagitalpineclub.com/mount_class.htm For those that live in the North Sound, it is a convenient way to learn some skills for the hills. We hope some of you will come out this spring with us! Cheers, Jason

Trip: Ruby - Northwestish Ridge Date: 1/18/2009 Trip Report: After Marko and Colin's TR on Colonial, our trip seems pretty inconsequential . . but since there aren't many reports from this side of ruby and it is an accessible and technically easy winter objective, I'll post a few photos and details. Trent and I started up last Saturday after realizing that the road as only plowed to Colonial Creek (not MP 134 as advertised). This added about 2.5 miles and 800' to the approach, but we needed the exercise. We left the road just past the scenic overlook, where Hwy 20 turns back to the east. On other winter attempts, I have left the Hwy just before John Pierce falls at a boulderfield. Both ways work, although I think our way this weekend was a bit better. Either way, it is a lot of steep forest and elevation gain before you break out on the ridge. After about 6 hours and 4500' of uphill wallow, we arrived at our camp (~5700') with views up the ridge to Ruby. Snow conditions were bad with a mixture of breakable crust and knee deep (in snowshoes) mush or powder. Skiing would have maybe been worse (steep, tight trees + bad snow conditions). Perhaps we should have been across the valley with the men instead? The night was warm, made even warmer by Trent's excellent single malt, and the next day dawned clear. Ross lake was lost in the fog, and all of the peaks were out in their finery: As we got higher, the snow conditions improved as did the views: We took off the snowshoes for the last 500' or so and actually got to do some fun 3rd class scrambling. Although it is a bummer that the summit has a radio repeater on it (be warned so you aren't disappointed), at least it blocks the wind and allows for a long rest to enjoy the view. Before long, we began the march down- which went quite quick. I think it took us about four hours from the summit to the cars, including packing up. Just goes to show that it isn't too far, just a long way up (~6200'). Anyway, for those looking for some solitude and a nice view in the wintertime, Ruby won't disappoint! Gear Notes: Flotation, Camera Approach Notes: Eat your Wheaties

Steph Abegg “Sunset to Sunrise: Climbing and Night Photography in the Cascades and Canada” Skagit Alpine Club, February 3, 2009 - 7pm Skagit Valley College, Angst Hall, Room 22 Campus Map: http://www.skagit.edu/images/color_mvCampus.pdf Please join us at this month’s alpine club meeting as we welcome climber and photographer Steph Abegg to share stories and images from her adventures in the Cascades and Canada. A grad student in Civil Engineering at UW during the school year, she has spent the last several summers in the hills, climbing and linking some stout alpine traverses. On her adventures, Steph’s camera always comes along, regardless of how many other items she is leaving behind to save weight. Drawn to the technical challenge and potential for creativity, Steph has put a lot of time and effort into her night photography. We hope you will join us as she shares some of these unique and beautiful images! For some of Steph’s great images and stories, check out her website: http://sabegg.googlepages.com/

A couple of years back I purchased this stuff in anticipation of an AK trip. Unfortunately the trip did not happen, and they have been sitting in my gear room every since. Both items are in new condition and have never been used. I don't have to sell both together. 1. Voile Telepro Avalanche Shovel - $30 2. MSR Heat Exchanger - $25 Anyway, shoot me a PM if you are interested in any of this stuff . . .Thanks! -Jason

Just wondering if anyone has tried these. I bought a pair of the Trango S's when they first came out 7 years ago and blew through them in one season. I really, really liked them, but couldn't afford to buy a new pair every year. I've been using some Kaylands since, but they aren't as comfortable or as light, and certainly don't climb as well. These look like they may be tough enough: http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/559 But I was wondering if anyone could speak from first hand experience . . .Thanks! JG

So . . .I'm sure someone is heading to the Rockies or AK and needs a warm, well-made jacket. It's almost new. JG

Well, as the backpacking forums have probably pointed out, the walmart cheapo doesn't have a rainfly (nor will it stand up to heavy use). Why don't you just bring some bug juice and sleep out under the stars? Now that's cheap. As far as light shelter goes, the Black Diamond Betalight is probably the best thing going . . . JG

A friend of mine who fishes for a living uses this stuff when climbing (because he can "borrow" it from the boat). I don't really see any downside (besides the ageless spectra vs. nylon debate), but was wondering if anyone else had experience with it. I do know that you have to leave plenty of tail when tying, as it it pretty slippery stuff when new. You can find amsteel blue relatively cheap on some marine supply websites and it is ridiculously strong for its diameter. http://www.samsonrope.com/index.cfm?rope=192 http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/new-detail.cfm?id=AMRAMSTLBLU14 Cheers, JG

I don't really need this jacket anymore due to the fact that I'm a weenie don't do enough winter stuff to justify it. Has been used a handful of times (<10), but still looks brand new- no tears, stains, holes, etc. Size: XL (but fits like a large IMHO) Color: Charcoal Grey Shell: Epic Fill: 800 something Price: $200, or make me an offer! I'm not a smoker either, if that matters. Anyway, I think it retails for ~340, I'm asking 200 and can deliver to the Seattle area(I live in Mount Vernon). Anyway, here is what FF has to say about it: http://www.featheredfriends.com/Picasso/Garments/Mid/VolantJacket.html Shoot me a PM if you are interested! Thanks. JG

We met all the criteria for great fall colors this year: http://botany.suite101.com/article.cfm/why_are_fall_leaf_colors_different_every_year

I am pretty sure it was May (2000 or 2001), but you are right in that it will vary year to year. I think the gully normally fills in pretty well from large avalanches and should be good to go for at least a month April/May/June each year. Although it may be tough to consider giving it another shot, I keep on meaning to go back because it was such a fantastic spring trip. Now I will know how bad it is without snow!

Just an FYI- This is a MUCH better trip to do in the spring. Good step kicking almost the entire way up to the summit (with short bits of scrambling interspersed) and some ripping glissades on the way down. What you guys did most certainly looked unpleasant in comparison- Good job to stick it out!

Could your salmon have been a bull trout? It's hard to see in the video, but the coloration and the white leading edge on the pelvic fin lead me to think that it just might be . . . JG

Oh yeah, most certainly three days. It actually was a pretty nice trip, especially with the fishing and all. I kept on thinking what a long descent down the east ridge that must have been for you and Andy, carrying overnight gear too! JG

Thanks!

Trip: Jack - EastRidge Date: 9/13/2008 Trip Report: Well, this is going to be short and sweet because I am a dad now and need my sleep. Since there is no TR per se for this route in the database (but thanks to curtveld for some great info), I figure folks might be interested. A short while ago Tim, T.J. and myself hiked our butts up to Jerry Lakes for leisurely assault on Jack, somewhere around 48 hours car to car. The hike in was fast on trail up to Crater Lake and then some cross country travel around Crater, past the Jerry Glacier: Including some nice views over to fall colors on Jakita Ridge: Jerry Lakes are a great spot to camp, with fine views, and decent fishing (Mmmm, furry trout): On our summit day, we climbed above the lakes and got a view of the route (the right skyline): . . .then dropped a disheartening amount on the other side, and began our climb up to the east glacier. We had to do some wet, loose, 4th class scrambling to get on the ridge itself (the glacier was pretty broken, otherwise it is probably straightforward snow travel), but once on it the climbing was surprisingly good: As Beckey says, pretty solid 3rd and 4th class, with a snow bit towards the top. We belayed a short bit right before the summit, but pretty much just carefully scrambled the rest. I think it took us about 3 hours to get to the ridge, a couple hours climbing up, and a couple hours on the summit delaying the reportedly unsavory descent. Good times, and some pretty expansive summit views: Then came the not so good times, the descent down the south face. See if you can find two climbers here: While never very serious, it is a long and tedious descent where you have to stay on your toes. Maybe it helps if you have come up this way before, but we had not, so it was slow going. This type of stuff is not fun no matter how you cut it: All in all it was a great trip to a mountain I have wanted to climb for some time. We basically went up the right skyline in the photo below and came down the middle of the mountain: And it this report wouldn't be complete without a team photo: Some fall colors: And me looking like an idiot: Gear Notes: Fly rod, 8.5mm half rope, a few nuts, a couple of tri-cams, crampons, and axe. Don't forget your HELMET! Approach Notes: A long way up and down and up and down.

Wow, thanks for the education McJizzy- us backwoods Skagitonians need some occasionally. But perhaps I should have been more specific- see the edited title. It is usually a little nicer to email, rather than cold-calling people. But I guess you don't worry too much about being nice . . . Jason

Just wondering if folks know how to get a hold of him. Please shoot me a PM- Thanks for any info! Cheers, Jason

Great, thanks for the info!

Just wondering if folks have any recollection of good camps in the basin and where. Heading in there this week, so any info is much appreciated. Thanks! -Jason

In case folks were wondering, it was a fantastic show! Many thanks to Blake for getting the SAC motivated to head to the hills. We will be taking a break for summer, but stay tuned for more programs this fall. I have a feeling there will be a few shows you don't want to miss. . . . Cheers, Jason

Hey Folks- Just a reminder that this is TOMORROW night! Hope to see you there . . .

I should stop trying to be so grammatically correct when using links. I fixed it, thanks. For folks not familiar with the campus, I would recommend using the map on the link. I know they are doing a lot of construction around the campus, so I'm not surprised that the on-campus maps on out of date (thanks for the heads-up woodchips). Now spread the word everyone!!!