JasonG

You mean mandatory military service? Seems to work well for a lot of countries. The politicians might think longer about sending the boys (and girls) overseas when it is actually their kids they are sending. RE: Quality of education. There is no substitute for spending time with your kids. It seems like many parents today would like the schools to raise and educate their kids. Personally, I think we would see test scores and many other things in society improve if one parent stayed at home or worked very part-time. Drive an old car, consume less, move to a smaller place, whatever you have to do. The best teachers in the world often fail if the kids aren't getting support/direction/encouragement/time at home. I think Jim already nailed this, but it bears repeating.

Wow, I'd forgotten about that trip. Crowder twice! OK, great info, thanks!

I'd often wondered about the traverse of Mystery and Pioneer ridges, now I don't have any excuse! Thanks for all the detailed beta, I have put it on the list. Sounds like the crux (as expected) is the descent off Crowder....and that you pretty much went the only feasible way down (NE ridge)? I have to say that those images/vantage points are some of the most jaw dropping I have seen in the Cascades, and I feel like I have seen most corners. That alone is reason to visit sooner rather than later. Thanks for sharing your experience!

Yikes, that is some dangerous looking terrain. Glad everything worked out!

Ah....the snaffle treatment. No summit bivy is complete without packrat battle royale. Excellent images as always! Impressive!

Now that is an area you don't see photos from too often! Thanks for the Slesse shots, a great perspective on the peak. It is amazing how steep it is on all sides, I can't think of too many other peaks that compare locally. It figures that Kevin was there, he has really sought out the most obscure recesses of the Cascades-usually solo.

Perfecto! I found the route fun as well, and am glad that our TR may have helped steer you in the right direction. That notch is not very friendly- We felt that we wimped out by dropping down, but sounds like others agree that it looks pretty sketch to start on the crest. It is certainly a great moderate route, and easy to find solitude on a busy weekend. Glad to hear that the PCT approach is recommended. I will have to go back and try it that way.

Interesting project! I'm not so sure about pikas, but my experience is that the snaffles are doing just fine in NCNP. I can only hope that climate change will take them out.

Otherwise known as the "prison years".

Sharkfin Tower! Great rock, amazing position. Ditto on the Sulphide, but finish with the SE ridge of the summit pyramid. It doesn't get much better than that for an easy alpine climb. A bunch of other great suggestions already . . .

Oh that wasn't Juan's pack, it is Sepultura's. He's stuck on a boat in the Bering Sea much of the year, and spends far too much time looking at gear on the web! Sweet pack though....

Thanks Tyson. Sorry, but I couldn't resist posting a photo of Juan's feet. It was by far the worst blister I have ever seen. And that was with Leukotape! You're right Drew, if we had run low on supplies, that flap would have sustained us for at least a few days!

Trip: Spider, S, and Magic Mountains - Standards Date: 7/30/2012 Trip Report: Juan, Sepultura and myself had grand plans involving the 1972 Kloke route on the NF of Spider. As we all know though, talk is cheap. In the end a variety of factors (drizzly marine layer, time, lack of cojones, etc.) conspired against us, meaning that we ultimately took the gear for a long walk towards the north face but ended up coming back around to the standard SE route (Sorry Dallas, we will be back!). Such is life, but an appropriate outcome given my alpine season this year. It is hard to be bummed out though, when your are in midst of such amazing country! Even the standard routes up Spider, S, and Magic are entertaining and undeniably beautiful- not to mention that the pesky marine layer that plagued us on Spider allowed for some interesting lighting and views. Highlights included: The Spider register (placed in 1968 by Cal Magnusson, who also placed the Agnes register in the same year), the improbably easy scramble up Magic (second time is as good as the first), moody views from atop S, and the parade of characters traipsing along the Ptarmigan traverse. Here is a pictoral summary of three days on the south side of Cache col.... Gear Notes: For the standards all you need is a glacier rope, axe, helmet, and Aluminum crampons Approach Notes: Follow the Ptarmigans on their Ptrips.

My vote is for alternative B.

The updated EA is out and open for comment until 9/10/12. http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/landmanagement/projects/?cid=stelprdb5298297

C'mon! It doesn't take that long to stop and take a leak. That's pretty funny that you have developed a strategy to deal with it though.

Woah. That is quite the climb for a 12 year old. Makes me think that I can look forward to some fun adventures with my wee boys in a few years!

Lookin' good, mate! Way to keep the streak alive on multiple continents.....Drop me a line if you are around for a few more days, or need a place to park the van in the Skagit.

Those are big days, impressive! It has taken me a lot longer to tag half of what you did in that six days. Did the Snaffle keep you company on the summit of Goode?

Trip: Foggy - North Ridge Date: 7/19/2012 Trip Report: What does Beckey know? Sure, he said to approach the north side of Foggy via Ida Pass, but surely he never went that way, did he? Has he even climbed Foggy? After all, who has? At what were they thinking? It looks terrible from the trail to Monte Cristo, but there is a tantalizingly beautiful snow gully that takes you right to the north side of Foggy from near Goat Lake (listed as an alternate approach in Beckey). All you have to do is get to it.... Which turned out to be pretty unpleasant. With a half century of bushwhacking between Trent, Sepultura, and myself, we had never experienced brush quite like the patch between the trail on the north side of Goat Lake and the snow finger descending from Foggy. Devil's Club, salmonberry, slide alder, AND nettles - head high nettles, everywhere. It was special, in a twisted sort of way. At one point we had to cross a deep, fairly wide (too wide to jump), and swift creek. Although we were resigned to getting soaked, wemanaged to walk on slide alder to the midpoint of the stream (getting lower, lower with each step), then transition to another slide alder bush on the other side (higher, higher with each step), without getting too wet. Another first. What possessed us to battle through hell to reach the alpine you might ask? "Climb class 3 and 4 rock with occasional easy class-5 moves; the rock is firm diorite." Sounds fun doesn't it? And it was, though it was only a couple rope lengths of climbing. At least we got a summit during a frustrating period of weather. Thanks to Messrs. Catellani and Corriveau for drawing us to the summit of Foggy. Without their fun sounding North ridge route, I may have skipped climbing it. It is worth doing though, just don't go in via Goat lake after the snow melts and the nettles grow head high. My legs are still burning. The North side of Foggy and the snow finger from the shore of Goat Lake. Huh? Sloan Peak and Goat Lake far below. We may have gained the ridge too soon, and did a short rappel. Cadet and Monte Cristo Peaks from the summit of Foggy On the summit. We have to go back that way? Descending below the summit. In the snow gully, heading down to begin the brush bash around Goat Lake. Trent demonstrating the slide alder stream crossing technique. Yes, Mr. Sepultura is standing up. Goat Lake. Foggy is on the right, Cadet is in the middle. Gear Notes: Light rack, 60m half rope, axe, helmet, Al crampons. Approach Notes: Don't follow us.

Thanks for the heads up! I also voiced my support for Alt. 2, via the online comment form. Of course, I suspect that we will see the preferred alternative. The commoners don't seem to effect much change in public policy these days....

Given your time in Cham, that is saying something! Wow, strong work. I'm impressed with the trips you and Liz do (and still stay together). That looks full value, especially with your significant other along. Thanks for the TR!

Way to go Drew! I'm glad that your climb worked out so well. You happened to arrive at the end of a frustrating period of weather. Perfect timing.

Thanks for the beta, and I'm glad you got off safe! I was also T-stormed off the enchainment years ago, and need to go back and tag Joffre (we started from the other direction). This TR helps.

Most years, the Adams Glacier involves difficult ice climbing (in and out of crevasses/seracs) late in the season.