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Jacob Smith

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About Jacob Smith

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 09/06/1990

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  • Homepage
    obligatoryclimbingblog.wordpress.com
  • Occupation
    None
  • Location
    Mill Creek, Washington
  1. The west face of Sloan in winter is the real deal. Awhile back I wrote about my experience there https://fringesfolly.com/2016/05/18/choose-your-own-adventure-by-jacob-smith/
  2. Vertical World

    Hey all, I'm looking for a competent and experienced lead climbing partner for the Seattle vertical world on weekday afternoons. Ultimately I'd like to be going twice a week and it would be super awesome to find someone who could make it a regular thing.
  3. Fred's life documentary teaser

    I find it interesting how if you read the older lit, specifically that Greg Child article, dirtbag is definitely a derogatory term, but it has somehow now lost those connotations and is now applied to the lifestyle that Fred Beckey and co. pioneered. I suspect that there is a substantial generation gap in how climbers define the term.
  4. injury on orbit this sunday

    Saw the tape as we drove past and wondered what was up. For a modern climber that chimney is probably the crux of the route. I think I did the route around a year after I started climbing and that was the only part that felt desperate.
  5. Triple Couloirs???

    Anyone been up Triple Couloirs this year? I know it's not as badass as the Gerber-Sink or a new line but if anyone's tried it a conditions report would be appreciated.
  6. I'd very much like to get out to Lillooet next weekend (friday - sunday, thursday optional) but my usual partners are all busy. I havn't climbed real water ice in almost two years so I'm looking to start small (TRs and easy leads in the Icy BC area) and then depending on conditions do some longer climbs. I'd be coming from Seattle. reply to lyons14833@gmail.com
  7. Lillooet? Strobach?

    Anyone been to Lillooet or Strobach recently? and/or have a good guess about conditions over Christmas weekend? Temps look good as far as I can tell...
  8. [TR] North Twin Sister - West Ridge 11/28/2015

    Depends on how much you like your skins. There was not more than an inch or two of loose, dry, powder until after the signed junction.
  9. Trip: North Twin Sister - West Ridge Date: 11/28/2015 Trip Report: I broke my last camera over a year ago and Josh forgot his, so all we took are crappy camera phone shots that I'm not going to bother to upload [Josh: if you got any good ones maybe throw them or a link to them in the comments?]. Anywho, we climbed the west ridge of north twin on Saturday. To my surprise, we had the whole mountain (whole range?) to ourselves for the day. Gear Notes: There was a good deal of snow on north aspects but the route itself was surprisingly passable, we didn't break out the pons until the final 100 ft, although they were mandatory for the north route descent. Approach Notes: As we anticipated, the road is not, in my view, terribly bikable at the moment, there was about 4-6in. of snow from a mile or two in, and thick frost and ice before that.
  10. Washington in October--suggestions?

    I would avoid the Sherpa glacier that late in the year, I tried it in august on a more normal snow year and epiced kind of majorly. You should probably count out any and all snow/glacier climbing for your trip, as most of it will be gone and what's underneath is almost never not terrifying, chossy, borderline impassable nonsense. From Stuart Lake the north ridges of Stuart and Sherpa are both accessible, as is any of the stuff at Colchuck lake if you get an early enough start. This also means that there will be no easy way to get down Stuart on the north side, meaning you should count on descending the Cascadian and hiking around over Goat Pass, which is doable but should be expected to take the better part of a day.
  11. outer space, leavenworth

    That's a bit of a stretch.... The approach takes longer than that of the east face of liberty bell, and there are no bolted belays, and the rock is kind of shitty, and there's a bunch of lichen. Lets call it alpine cragging... Oh and skip Outer Space entirely, it's not that good. Really overrated honestly, just go to Index instead and get on the new Park Ranger link-up, it's the same grade and needs the traffic.
  12. Anyone know what's up with the bolt studs (not rivets, bolts stripped of hangers) leading to a mid point on the long arching crack to the right of Arch Enemy?
  13. [TR] Spickard - 6/6/2015

    Trip: Spickard - Date: 6/6/2015 Trip Report: Some people invited me on a trip to the Chilliwacks. We climbed Spickard. A good time was had by all. My report can be found on my Obligatory Climbing Blog I don't have a camera anymore but Adam does, here's his trip report The discerning reader will notice a few differences in our accounts, just chalk it up to the subjectivity of human experience I guess. Gear Notes: We didn't fall in any crevasses so no glacier gear required Approach Notes: Yer gonna die
  14. beginner aid climbing

    Can't tell if this is trolling or not. But yeah, that's sort of common knowledge. Royal Robbins, Muir Wall solo 1969, before sit harnesses were commonly used and before there were commercially manufactured aiders. check it: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=732192
  15. beginner aid climbing

    I've used a clove hitch quite a bit, up to around C3, and I would say it is no more dangerous than a grigri (although i am unsure what would happen if I fell while adjusting the knot). It's mostly just a pain - extremely slow and difficult.
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