JasonG

Oh that wasn't Juan's pack, it is Sepultura's. He's stuck on a boat in the Bering Sea much of the year, and spends far too much time looking at gear on the web! Sweet pack though....

Thanks Tyson. Sorry, but I couldn't resist posting a photo of Juan's feet. It was by far the worst blister I have ever seen. And that was with Leukotape! You're right Drew, if we had run low on supplies, that flap would have sustained us for at least a few days!

Trip: Spider, S, and Magic Mountains - Standards Date: 7/30/2012 Trip Report: Juan, Sepultura and myself had grand plans involving the 1972 Kloke route on the NF of Spider. As we all know though, talk is cheap. In the end a variety of factors (drizzly marine layer, time, lack of cojones, etc.) conspired against us, meaning that we ultimately took the gear for a long walk towards the north face but ended up coming back around to the standard SE route (Sorry Dallas, we will be back!). Such is life, but an appropriate outcome given my alpine season this year. It is hard to be bummed out though, when your are in midst of such amazing country! Even the standard routes up Spider, S, and Magic are entertaining and undeniably beautiful- not to mention that the pesky marine layer that plagued us on Spider allowed for some interesting lighting and views. Highlights included: The Spider register (placed in 1968 by Cal Magnusson, who also placed the Agnes register in the same year), the improbably easy scramble up Magic (second time is as good as the first), moody views from atop S, and the parade of characters traipsing along the Ptarmigan traverse. Here is a pictoral summary of three days on the south side of Cache col.... Gear Notes: For the standards all you need is a glacier rope, axe, helmet, and Aluminum crampons Approach Notes: Follow the Ptarmigans on their Ptrips.

My vote is for alternative B.

The updated EA is out and open for comment until 9/10/12. http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/landmanagement/projects/?cid=stelprdb5298297

C'mon! It doesn't take that long to stop and take a leak. That's pretty funny that you have developed a strategy to deal with it though.

Woah. That is quite the climb for a 12 year old. Makes me think that I can look forward to some fun adventures with my wee boys in a few years!

Lookin' good, mate! Way to keep the streak alive on multiple continents.....Drop me a line if you are around for a few more days, or need a place to park the van in the Skagit.

Those are big days, impressive! It has taken me a lot longer to tag half of what you did in that six days. Did the Snaffle keep you company on the summit of Goode?

Trip: Foggy - North Ridge Date: 7/19/2012 Trip Report: What does Beckey know? Sure, he said to approach the north side of Foggy via Ida Pass, but surely he never went that way, did he? Has he even climbed Foggy? After all, who has? At what were they thinking? It looks terrible from the trail to Monte Cristo, but there is a tantalizingly beautiful snow gully that takes you right to the north side of Foggy from near Goat Lake (listed as an alternate approach in Beckey). All you have to do is get to it.... Which turned out to be pretty unpleasant. With a half century of bushwhacking between Trent, Sepultura, and myself, we had never experienced brush quite like the patch between the trail on the north side of Goat Lake and the snow finger descending from Foggy. Devil's Club, salmonberry, slide alder, AND nettles - head high nettles, everywhere. It was special, in a twisted sort of way. At one point we had to cross a deep, fairly wide (too wide to jump), and swift creek. Although we were resigned to getting soaked, wemanaged to walk on slide alder to the midpoint of the stream (getting lower, lower with each step), then transition to another slide alder bush on the other side (higher, higher with each step), without getting too wet. Another first. What possessed us to battle through hell to reach the alpine you might ask? "Climb class 3 and 4 rock with occasional easy class-5 moves; the rock is firm diorite." Sounds fun doesn't it? And it was, though it was only a couple rope lengths of climbing. At least we got a summit during a frustrating period of weather. Thanks to Messrs. Catellani and Corriveau for drawing us to the summit of Foggy. Without their fun sounding North ridge route, I may have skipped climbing it. It is worth doing though, just don't go in via Goat lake after the snow melts and the nettles grow head high. My legs are still burning. The North side of Foggy and the snow finger from the shore of Goat Lake. Huh? Sloan Peak and Goat Lake far below. We may have gained the ridge too soon, and did a short rappel. Cadet and Monte Cristo Peaks from the summit of Foggy On the summit. We have to go back that way? Descending below the summit. In the snow gully, heading down to begin the brush bash around Goat Lake. Trent demonstrating the slide alder stream crossing technique. Yes, Mr. Sepultura is standing up. Goat Lake. Foggy is on the right, Cadet is in the middle. Gear Notes: Light rack, 60m half rope, axe, helmet, Al crampons. Approach Notes: Don't follow us.

Thanks for the heads up! I also voiced my support for Alt. 2, via the online comment form. Of course, I suspect that we will see the preferred alternative. The commoners don't seem to effect much change in public policy these days....

Given your time in Cham, that is saying something! Wow, strong work. I'm impressed with the trips you and Liz do (and still stay together). That looks full value, especially with your significant other along. Thanks for the TR!

Way to go Drew! I'm glad that your climb worked out so well. You happened to arrive at the end of a frustrating period of weather. Perfect timing.

Thanks for the beta, and I'm glad you got off safe! I was also T-stormed off the enchainment years ago, and need to go back and tag Joffre (we started from the other direction). This TR helps.

Most years, the Adams Glacier involves difficult ice climbing (in and out of crevasses/seracs) late in the season.

I found the Coleman HW to be a bit stressful and not very "fun" compared to the NR, which is a great climb, and relatively safe. Also, Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan is a fantastic outing.

Sol, just admit it. You like sitting on cams. It's OK.

2011 was not a normal year. We had a huge snowpack and a very cool summer, meaning conditions late in the year on the volcanos were much, much better than normal. Night and day really. We have a decent snowpack this year, but it all depends on how warm August is. That said, I'm still betting that Hood and Adams will be bony and unpleasant come September. And yes, everyone posting on this thread speaks from experience. Late season hazards are real on the volcanos.

If you don't want to travel to the North Cascades (you really should consider it!), I think scrambling some peaks in the Goat Rocks would be much more enjoyable. Backpack the Snowgrass Flats loop and tag a few peaks. I would second avoiding Hood and Adams after July. Much, much too ugly, and possibly dangerous depending on the route choice. As far as steep volcano routes that time of year, Kurt pretty much nailed it.

You will want to have at least 2 stoves for five people if you are melting snow for water. Actually, two stoves for five people regardless of your water source. That said, two 22 oz bottles should cover it, per stove.

If you don't care about esthetics, and want something that is very close to a road, the Baker ski area is pretty ideal during the summertime. Specifically the area around Heather Meadows/Table Mtn., just outside the ski area boundary. A bit of a haul from Seattle, but probably no farther than Paradise, and has better slopes to practice on.

Excellent, thanks for the TR! So, is three days to the summit very fast, or pretty normal if given good weather and conditions? That looks like one of the better summits in N.A.!

But the NF of Robson is still just a ski, no?

Thanks for the tale and images, both stellar! And, congratulations on the Alpinist photo. There has got to be a good story behind that one!

I've never seen a wedding dress that dirty. Given how much they typically cost, that is something you don't see every day.