JasonG

Most years, the Adams Glacier involves difficult ice climbing (in and out of crevasses/seracs) late in the season.

I found the Coleman HW to be a bit stressful and not very "fun" compared to the NR, which is a great climb, and relatively safe. Also, Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan is a fantastic outing.

Sol, just admit it. You like sitting on cams. It's OK.

2011 was not a normal year. We had a huge snowpack and a very cool summer, meaning conditions late in the year on the volcanos were much, much better than normal. Night and day really. We have a decent snowpack this year, but it all depends on how warm August is. That said, I'm still betting that Hood and Adams will be bony and unpleasant come September. And yes, everyone posting on this thread speaks from experience. Late season hazards are real on the volcanos.

If you don't want to travel to the North Cascades (you really should consider it!), I think scrambling some peaks in the Goat Rocks would be much more enjoyable. Backpack the Snowgrass Flats loop and tag a few peaks. I would second avoiding Hood and Adams after July. Much, much too ugly, and possibly dangerous depending on the route choice. As far as steep volcano routes that time of year, Kurt pretty much nailed it.

You will want to have at least 2 stoves for five people if you are melting snow for water. Actually, two stoves for five people regardless of your water source. That said, two 22 oz bottles should cover it, per stove.

If you don't care about esthetics, and want something that is very close to a road, the Baker ski area is pretty ideal during the summertime. Specifically the area around Heather Meadows/Table Mtn., just outside the ski area boundary. A bit of a haul from Seattle, but probably no farther than Paradise, and has better slopes to practice on.

Excellent, thanks for the TR! So, is three days to the summit very fast, or pretty normal if given good weather and conditions? That looks like one of the better summits in N.A.!

But the NF of Robson is still just a ski, no?

Thanks for the tale and images, both stellar! And, congratulations on the Alpinist photo. There has got to be a good story behind that one!

I've never seen a wedding dress that dirty. Given how much they typically cost, that is something you don't see every day.

I'd recommend the east ledges descent on Forbidden. It is much faster than down climbing the west ridge and makes for a full traverse experience. It is nice to finish with the stellar rock on the west ridge too, and descending Torment isn't as nice as descending Forbidden, having done both.

I disagree. When you have a fast moving stream, I always face the far bank and keep my stance wide (Larry Craig style). I used a single pole cross body (stout stick works better than trekking pole), with the end in the bottom below my DS foot. For me, this works much, much better than facing upstream, especially when faced with uneven footing.

Awesome work! I was wondering about you guys when the T-storms rolled thru the Skagit Sunday night. I'm glad you weren't up on the ridge, though it sounds like it was mainly over J-Berg? You also avoided death by snaffle, which is a real possibility if you camp just before the snow traverse. Just ask the runningdog... That is a classic trip, glad it worked out!

Thanks for the TR, looks like a fun trip! I have never been down that way, but that may need to change.

The wives would have wanted you to wear helmets too

It seems like most parties these days approach Ptarmigan via White River, simplifying the descent. But then again, that makes a two day ascent more difficult with the added distance and elevation gain. You guys are fast though, so I bet you could still do it!

That's the stylish way to travel, strong work! That seems like a bit of a car shuttle, eh?

I think you could have a great time in the North Cascades sans partner if you spent a week or more peak bagging and car camping in between. Sahale, Ruth, Pugh, Black, Tomyhoi, Three Fingers, etc., etc. It will be eye opening.

Cool! I think this is the same Jim that I did a Wapta ski trip with seven years ago, I didn't know he was a rock climber from way back too. One hell of a guy, we mainly talked about skiing on our week together- he had pretty much been everywhere, several times. Please say hi for me next time you talk to him! And great photos as usual Mark! You should probably just put your camera info in your autosignature. That 24-105 looks like just the ticket.....someday.

You would be better linking them via the DC. Still, as Lowell says, not a very natural pairing. More like two trips back to back....

That is very, very fast, but considering the team, I'm not too surprised. Those pictures bring back some memories! I like the insulated rubber gloves, I will have to give that a try for spring climbs.

It was blocked earlier this spring, check with the Darrington RS or their road status web page: http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/recreation/?cid=stelprdb5150593 Says closed thru summer of 2012, so you probably have a few miles of road to walk.

So very sad, thanks for the info.

Moonshiner- Could you tell where the climber came to rest after the fall?