JasonG

As long as you are prepared for steep snow with significant exposure, I would think it would be a fine objective about now. Things are likely to have settled down with how much warmth we've had in the last week.

Trip: Mount Baker - Watson's Traverse in Reverse Date: 5/12/2012 Trip Report: Growing up, I knew Dwight Watson as a curious old man (he rode the train to Monte Cristo as a boy!). Full of life, and always chattering about the things that interested him, Dwight never belied that he was one of the founding fathers of ski mountaineering in the Cascades. Very near the end of his life (he died in 1996), I had the privilege of going on a picnic with him at the Big Four trailhead where he pulled out his shoe boxes of photos and regaled us all with tales of mountain exploits from the 1930's through the 1960's. It was then I learned, belatedly, that he had been the first? person to take Fred and Helmey Beckey climbing ("The Beckey Boys" according to Dwight). Apparently Dwight was a friend of Fred's dad, and was asked to show Fred how not to kill himself in the hills. I wasn't a climber in 1995, and only in later years did I see how many times Dwight's name appeared in Fred's Books, often in the photo credits. Dwight died before I could talk with him about many of his firsts ascents and descents, and before Lowell Skoog ever got to meet him. But, through extensive research, Lowell has brought Dwight to us all in remarkable detail. And, at one of Lowell's excellent slide shows several years ago, I had the good fortune of seeing the original movie Dwight shot on his 1939 traverse of Mount Baker. Since Dwight was the first to have done this trip, Lowell named the trip, Watson's Traverse. In the intervening years, the name stuck and the traverse has become somewhat popular (folks skied it the day we approached the Park). It is trip I have wanted to do for years and I was fortune enough to complete it this past weekend, albeit in the reverse direction (Baker Ski area to Coleman). Although I trust that the proper Watson is best on skis, I only know how to snowboard, and thus my plan to go in the reverse direction with a bivy at the edge of the Park Gl. I know, I really should learn to ski. Regardless, we had a fantastic outing and the whole side of the mountain (and the summit) to ourselves. A note to those that might do the Watson some time this year- the bergshrund is fairly open all the way from the south side of the Park Headwall to the Cockscomb. We found a way through, but it was spicy and will only get more so with time. I encourage any skiers out there to at least do this trip once, it's a classic!

Whatever happened to keeping the TR's spray free? Here is a not too terrific photo of one of you guys (the black speck) on the NR. Since we were carrying over I left the tele at home...

I have a picture of one of you guys on the second ice pitch, I'll post it up here when I get a few minutes. We were over on the ridge above the Park Gl. It was cool to see some folks on it!

Stunning lines as usual Dan! These have got to be first descents?

I think it fits under the "alpine" category.

Well said Dan. The longer I climb, and the more very solid climbers/friends I've seen hurt or killed, the more I realize that it could have been me. "He who is without sin should cast the first stone." This is as good counsel now as when it was written, and I should heed it more than I often do.

You picked a good time of the year for an attempt. The last week of July and the first week of August are statistically the driest weeks of the year. If you plan some flexibility into the exact dates you should have a high chance for success. Depending on how you typically handle altitude, I've found that a three day itinerary is better for enjoying the climb. Good luck!

That is a powerful story Oleg. Your son has a long life ahead of him and I hope this rough patch is relatively short. My thoughts and prayers are with you and your family, hang in there! That would be cool if Dave's worked out, they're a great company that I love to support.

I read thru my State Farm Policy and didn't see anything that excluded climbing related deaths. Suicide, war, etc. weren't covered, but climbing wasn't listed. Rates were very reasonable.

In some years, the ID stays in tourist shape all summer long. At least it did in 2000 or 2001, when my wife and I climbed it in September, following the established cattle trail. The DC wasn't being used much, or at all, that year.

I think one thing that would make the interface between gallery and TR a lot better would be for a thumbnail to show up in addition to the image tag (or maybe in spite of it?). When I am dumping a whole bunch of photos into a TR, it is a battle to label them as the system is set up (have to do endless previews it seems). Also, for some reason, the images tend to drop into the end of the TR, not where your cursor is (at least I think this is what happens). Lastly, the default image size is a bit small, and I usually go in and edit the tags to make them bigger (another time waster). Thanks for looking into making the TR experience better and more efficient!

Thanks for the info! I hear you on the lens front, it seems like for the zooms you have to get above 1K before you get quality and durability. I know John Scurlock is very happy with his f/4 24-105. Seems like a great lens.

Mark- Is that the 3.5 10-20 Sigma you're using? Nice colors and clarity.

Right, the secret Renton crag! It is surprising we all don't live there.

If harder climbing is your thing, then Leavenworth is probably hard to beat except for the whole job and cost of living thing. It really depends on your profession though. On the west side, Bellingham fits your criteria somewhat well, except there isn't as much climbing in the winter. Again, jobs are hard to come by, depending, and the cost of living isn't super cheap. Which is why a jungle loving skier/pseudo climber like myself lives in Mount Vernon. The town isn't anything special, but it is centrally located and close to the best mountaineering in the lower 48. It is dirt cheap right now as well- decent houses can be found for the low 100's, and rates are ridiculously low. Crazy. Plus I am trying to get more climber types to move here, and I get a commission from the Chamber of Commerce. Kidding.

Just what I was wondering...And, how is the road this year?

I think it really depends on how accessible you want the camera to be when on route. I've found the best option for getting the highest number of high quality images is to have two cameras. Something you can pull out with one hand and take photos with on route like the s100, and a lightweight SLR (Canon T2i, etc.) with a lens or two that stays in basecamp for the low light hours, camp life, landscapes, etc. For harder routes where I will be carrying over or bivying on route, I typically just take the little camera. I've not tried the 4/3 options or slightly larger P&S with lens caps, as they seem a bit big for my tastes. For me its important to have something that I can easily strap to a pack strap or harness, and especially making sure that it isn't bulky enough to get in the way when leading.

The Nikon P310 is another option, though it lacks RAW capabilities, and has a narrower zoom range. I really feel that the s100 is the best P&S going out there right now though, it's a stellar camera.

Canon s100 is pretty much the ideal P&S to have on your harness or shoulder strap. RAW, 24mm on the wide end, manual controls, HD video, and decent optics.

This weekend!

Exactly. I've been buying Power Bar gel at our local GrocOut for several years and it always seems they are selling it right before the exp. date. I buy 6 or so boxes at a time (b/c availability is spotty) and eat them for 1+ years past the date. I can't tell a difference between the 1st and last package; but I'm not too picky either.

Here is the crown line on 4/7: This was by far the largest avalanche I have seen. The crown was mostly in the 10' range with some areas pushing 15'. It ran over 5000'! Wow.

Thanks for showing us around Mark and MattP! I'm impressed with the number of routes you and others have developed over the last few years. A very cool place with great views from all of the climbs. More people should head out and get the routes a try; the more traffic, the more better! Topos available: http://www.rcnw.net/forums/index.php?showforum=41

Wow, I'm impressed you were able to sleep in that debris field. Gave me the willies. We skied it last Saturday, I think it took us around 10 hrs RT (up climbers left, down climbers right). Bring skis next time and start early, it a great day trip- if you have skis. I think the key is to avoiding sun induced sluffage is to go up the climbers left, and come down climber's right after the sun has shifted to the east wall. That way you are always traveling on the shady side.