JasonG

I'd recommend the east ledges descent on Forbidden. It is much faster than down climbing the west ridge and makes for a full traverse experience. It is nice to finish with the stellar rock on the west ridge too, and descending Torment isn't as nice as descending Forbidden, having done both.

I disagree. When you have a fast moving stream, I always face the far bank and keep my stance wide (Larry Craig style). I used a single pole cross body (stout stick works better than trekking pole), with the end in the bottom below my DS foot. For me, this works much, much better than facing upstream, especially when faced with uneven footing.

Awesome work! I was wondering about you guys when the T-storms rolled thru the Skagit Sunday night. I'm glad you weren't up on the ridge, though it sounds like it was mainly over J-Berg? You also avoided death by snaffle, which is a real possibility if you camp just before the snow traverse. Just ask the runningdog... That is a classic trip, glad it worked out!

Thanks for the TR, looks like a fun trip! I have never been down that way, but that may need to change.

The wives would have wanted you to wear helmets too

It seems like most parties these days approach Ptarmigan via White River, simplifying the descent. But then again, that makes a two day ascent more difficult with the added distance and elevation gain. You guys are fast though, so I bet you could still do it!

That's the stylish way to travel, strong work! That seems like a bit of a car shuttle, eh?

I think you could have a great time in the North Cascades sans partner if you spent a week or more peak bagging and car camping in between. Sahale, Ruth, Pugh, Black, Tomyhoi, Three Fingers, etc., etc. It will be eye opening.

Cool! I think this is the same Jim that I did a Wapta ski trip with seven years ago, I didn't know he was a rock climber from way back too. One hell of a guy, we mainly talked about skiing on our week together- he had pretty much been everywhere, several times. Please say hi for me next time you talk to him! And great photos as usual Mark! You should probably just put your camera info in your autosignature. That 24-105 looks like just the ticket.....someday.

You would be better linking them via the DC. Still, as Lowell says, not a very natural pairing. More like two trips back to back....

That is very, very fast, but considering the team, I'm not too surprised. Those pictures bring back some memories! I like the insulated rubber gloves, I will have to give that a try for spring climbs.

It was blocked earlier this spring, check with the Darrington RS or their road status web page: http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/recreation/?cid=stelprdb5150593 Says closed thru summer of 2012, so you probably have a few miles of road to walk.

So very sad, thanks for the info.

Moonshiner- Could you tell where the climber came to rest after the fall?

Nice work Steve!!!

I just noticed that it took longer to descend than ascend.... very telling.

Though speed climbing is not my thing, the fitness required to pull of a RT time like that is truly astounding. Very impressive, especially considering you carried all the typical safety gear and roped up for sections! Maybe everyone would have been happy if you had roped up, AND slowed down.

Thanks Marc! I will be interested to follow your adventures. It has been very cool to see the transformation from a jeans clad wee lad (NF of Cheam wasn't it?) to where you are at today. You have a lot of good years ahead of you!

Cool, I will have to check it out. Summer looks more like Type 1 fun.

Strong work! I go back and forth on whether I would like to climb Lincoln.....Right now I am in the Krakauer camp (a la NF of the Eiger).

That is quite the recovery Steph! Good to see you back out in the hills, capturing great images as per usual.

Thanks for the report on the South Twin! It's now on the list, sounds great! And, those are some great images as well, love it. Quick question: In the second to last picture, is that the North Twin from the col, and did you climb up the ridge in the middle of the frame?

Tip- Keeping the proper self arrest grip on the head of your axe, turn your wrist in such a way as to point the pick vertically away from your leg while glissading. You will still be able to drag the spike behind you to control speed. Feels weird at first, but you get used to it, and it will save your leg from those nasty cuts. Nice work! Shasta is on my list one of these days.

Did anyone else notice that huge crown line to the right of the North Buttress on Fury?? Wow! Is it as fresh as it looks?

That is one of my all time favorite scrambles, thanks for the report! And, as Curt said, post some pics in the TR so you can get entered into the contest!