JasonG

Well, I was talking an insulated sleeve for the hose as it travels down the shoulder strap. I've never had the bladder itself freeze in the pack, but hoses are an entirely different story in the winter. "Front pack" for skins? Like a separate pack? I often use my shovel on tours, it comes in handy to investigate the snow pack- but I've never had to dig anyone out, thankfully.

Trip: Sherman Peak - Squak Gl. Date: 6/22/2013 Trip Report: More of a conditions update than anything else for this mellow and mildly popular ski destination.... You still can't drive quite all the way to the TH, though quite close. With the Heliotrope TH out of commission, it is a zoo on this side of the mountain! Expect 100+ people on a weekend day. We started skinning a couple hundred feet above the cars, though pretty soon you will probably need to use the trail for this section. As you would expect, the Squak Gl is easily skinned this time of year. We brought glacier gear but never roped up and crossed few obvious bridges. Ski conditions were quite sticky with the new snow from the past week not yet corn. Low down (<6000') there was a short bit of fast corn, before the sun cups began to get annoying. We tried and failed to take the drainage all the way through the canyon and had to hike back up and boot down the rib we came up in the morning. All in all it was a forgettable ski, but the views were anything but. Sherman has a fantastic view (Neither Gordo or I had been up it before), and a very cool summit ridge finish, making for a fun alpine outing. I will certainly return again to ski it with some better corn conditions. And, I will probably again have the summit to myself, which is always a welcome change on a busy Baker weekend. Squak Gl. and Sherman Peak. Lincoln and Colfax are constant companions on this tour. Gordo, just after the crater right turn. Gordo Glamour shot. Don't even try to resist! The summit! Airier than I was expecting. How many people do you count on the Easton and Squak? We counted 45+ (not all in this frame) Don't go this way! Better make sure you have enough Kokanee for Gordo. When Gordo gets mad, Gordo gets strong! Gear Notes: skis! We saw many suffering without flotation, or with, in the case of snow shoes. Approach Notes: Follow the early season masses, then turn right at the crater.

Strong work!!! I will order a copy for sure. Thanks for keeping Dallas's dream alive and improving on it. Again, many thanks!!

Thanks for the detailed review! A couple questions/thoughts: No insulated hydration sleeve? This seems problematic for the winter. Only one snack pocket on the hip belt? Seems like the wet stuff is packed with the rest of your stuff, without a way to get to it separately from the rest of your gear? Can you cram skins in that same pouch with the shovel? Personally I much prefer the style of the BD Revelation. But, like most good packs, they've stopped making the non Avalung version. Still, you can find them online for not much. A little bigger than the Cilo pack, but I've found it often welcome when carrying an SLR and climbing gear. I've had it for a few years, and I've yet to see anything I like better. It's a fantastic ski pack.

Right, crampons. I forgot that most folks don't know how to put crampons on and wouldn't see the potential mis-match coming before their trip. Still, if they are that clueless, I sure wouldn't trust their self arrest or crampon skills to be up to the Old Chute.

A person's choice of boots won't help all that much if they don't know what they're doing.

If you tell me whose initials are written on it, I will get it back to you. Found around 5500' below the Squak on 6/22 in the late afternoon.

I guess there is utility is being able to save maps locally, but for trip planning purposes, I haven't found anything even close to as good as the free Gmap4 site. It is a pretty amazing collection of high res. maps with the ability to zoom in quickly using the search function. The coverage is seamless for all of Canada and the US as well. I think most folks know about it, but I never pass up an opportunity to sing the site's praises. I'm impressed, and use it weekly for all my trip planning.

Ah, I admire your ability to tantalize and preserve the mystery. It does look "direct" on the map. I guess I will have to figure out for myself someday. A friend of the family climbed the West peak with his boy scout troop, in '49 if I remember correctly. Or was it '39? Anyway, a long time ago, and he still remembers it well, though not with much fondness. Something about sucking on prune pits.

Good points, I wouldn't want to hose a nice shell or something with it. Might be great for a backpack though. I wonder if there would there be any concern spraying this on a rope?

Wow, now there is a peak that doesn't see many ascents! How was the thrash from the valley bottom?

For $20, I would give it a shot. I wonder if it changes the breathability of the fabric it is sprayed on? Pretty interesting that it is at Home Depot and not a gear store, nothing like economies of scale to bring the price down.

I'm certainly looking forward to the TR, WOW! And, I loved Lowell's cache retrieving TR on TAY - such great history. I didn't even know about the Gilbert cabin, though I must have driven by it a hundred times over the years.

An interesting read, thanks!

Wow, that looks really fun! Is this an early season route, to take advantage of snow in the gully? Thanks for the report, I've added it to the list (and added the guidebook to my Christmas list).

Your and Trish's endearing enthusiasm almost makes me think I could go down and climb some of these pitches. You guys make a pile of hard climbing look like a moderate romp- a fun read, thanks!

You didn't know? The NSA specifically hired John to keep tabs on the most nefarious members of our local climbing community. Don't worry, they haven't armed his plane yet.

A bold solo, well done! An excellent read too, Lincoln's reputation remains intact.

Wow, that is an impressive effort for your kids (and you herding them along)! Inspiring, as I have two boys, 3 & 5. who I try to get out in the hills as much as possible.

Excellent! I love that climb. When you get your first view of Cruiser, you think that there is no way that it could be easy fifth class. Such a memorable trip!

"Jam those hands Dave, keep jamming those hands".

Way to open the season on this! Did you find double raps to be worth the effort? I've heard to limit it to singles to minimize stuckage, but you would know.

Great story and images! I'm far too lazy for these sorts of adventures, but I do admire the style.

Thanks! John, you probably know Hozo better than most anyone. I've always loved your images of both peaks, but especially this one.

More importantly, has anyone climbed the landslide direct?? With modern tools and some pickets, it should go. Don't scoop me.