JasonG

Trip: Nooksack Tower - Beckey-Schmidtke/Upper North Face Date: 7/22/2013 Trip Report: "But I'm losing my edge. I'm losing my edge, but I was there. I was there. But I was there." I couldn't push James Murphy's words from my mind as I stared down at several thousand feet of sketchy terrain from the summit of Nooksack Tower. Steve had made it happen to get Gord and myself up to this exposed perch, but I was beginning to think I didn't have what it took any longer to climb these types of routes. Of course, the climb had intimidated/scared me for years, so I really shouldn't have been surprised. Both the Beckey and Nelson descriptions didn't make it sound like a walk in the park, and it certainly wasn't. It didn't help that we got off route and onto the North face, making the climbing much harder than it needed to be (as we found on the descent of the proper Beckey rte.). But we had Steve along, and he was not to be defeated, so all worked out in the end. I'm just glad he led the harder stuff! For aspiring Nooksack Tower ascensionists my advice would be to go early to mid July to make the snow gully easier, and traverse hard left across 3 or so ribs as soon as feasible once you've climbed up and right from the snow gully. Then, basically traverse left until you get to 3rd/4th class gully that will take you to the summit. This is key, don't be pulled up and right by the numerous rap stations-these led to the North face . Alpine Select gives this variation a 5.7/.8 rating and it felt quite spicy in boots. Other than that, don't expect it to be relaxing! I was seriously humbled by Nooksack Tower on our 19 hour camp to camp ascent, including burning three(!) pickets on the double rope 'schrund raps in the dark. But, it is an amazing summit and a worthy adventure. Even if it shows you that you've lost your edge... As usual, my photos are probably better than my words: No paper, no problem. Nooksack Cirque trail register: The infamous Nooksack log crossing. Maybe the fact that we didn't walk across should have been the first indication that we were about to get schooled: The "trail" up to Price lake is pretty steep, though somewhat distinct: Scenic hiking up the moraine along Price Lake: Price Gl. icefall: The views from camp are OK: We actually used most of this on the descent to back up/create stations. It doesn't get climbed much: Starting up the gully luge run: Gordo, high on the route: The Price is no joke: Steve nears the summit: Seahpo and Jagged Ridge above the East Nooksack Gl.: Steve getting in range to rap over the double 'schrund. Steep!: Nooksack Tower!: Lovely Price Lake: Gear Notes: Steel crampons, axe, second tool, two ropes, 3-4 pickets, and lots of tat. We left a bunch of fresh stuff this year, but it doesn't get climbed much. If in earlier season, you probably can get away without a lot of the snow/ice gear. Approach Notes: Drop down and cross the Nooksack on a log after entering big timber on the trail. The "trail" to Price lake is pretty well defined if you look for it. It took us about 5 hours to camp.

The Scarpas won't ride nearly as well as the TLT5s, at least without serious mods. They're too stiff in my split experience. That said, I've been riding Scarpas for the last 9 years because I am too cheap to buy new boots! They will work, you just won't be able to get too rad.

Ah geez, another PNW convert . Nice work after a couple frustrating years! Just be sure to tell folks back home that it rained again this year.

Yeah guys!! The chocolate bunny was the key, I just know it.

This thread needs ALLCAPS. WHERE ARE YOU?

No doubt!

Pretty stellar up there, eh? You even made the haul to the upper camp which isn't a small feat with full rack and such. Love the photos!

I'm with the Commander on this one.

A classic climb, glad you had a great trip! Although it makes for a longer trip, camping on the snow dome is a pretty spectacular way to experience Olympus. Watching the sun set into the Pacific from Panic Peak is one reason, and another is being able to climb some of the other summits of Olympus. Not to mention that you can get off the schedule of other climbing parties and assure yourself of having the summit to yourself. Smart move climbing the rap route, it is about the only solid rock on the summit.

Stunning images as usual Luke, thanks! And, as you probably know, in early July the trip is pretty straightforward and quite enjoyable- like take your wife or girlfriend and friends who don't climb much along enjoyable! But way to persevere and get it done, all the while lugging a heavy camera kit and staying up all night to take photos. Impressive.

Hi Andy- I'm sorry for the loss of your dad at a young age, I'm sure it wasn't easy growing up without him. Although I haven't been seen the plaque, I have been to Perfect Pass, and was likely very close to it (Sounds like Donn could give you exact directions, send him a PM, or I think I can get his email thru friends). The approach to the Pass isn't easy, though the quickest way is probably via Easy Ridge and the Hannegan Pass trail. It is described in the Beckey along with the Nelson/Potterfield Select guides. That said, there is probably lots of beta on the approach on the web. Here is a link to Steph's description (which is probably the best out there): http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/pickets#approach1 It is an approach that requires a good set of mountain skills, and most likely climbing gear, depending on your experience level and conditions. Unless you are pretty experienced in off trail scrambling, it is probably best to go with at least one other person. There are often groups from this site and NW hikers that going in to Perfect Pass each summer, so you may be able to post in the climbing partners forum and find team to go in with. You may also try Kelly Bush at the Marblemount ranger station. It is probably a long shot, but there are ranger patrols that go in to Perfect Pass each summer, and you may be able to tag along as a volunteer in exchange for some work. I wish you luck in your quest to visit the crash site, and feel free to keep asking questions.

I think you may have hit upon a new slogan for Adobe: "Lightroom, Xanax for your camera". It always amazes me how a few tweaks will make my cheapo P&S glass produce passable images, even though it doesn't shoot RAW. Good to know about the south side of the creek, the dense fir on the north side certainly wasn't pleasant! And I think that with a few folks and a long day, you could easily rough in a "trail" that would concentrate use and get established over time. Not a bad idea!

The yin and yang of the Cascades - punishing approach and spectacular climbing. Probably nowhere is that more true than on Bear, and I'm always impressed by the folks that make those north side routes happen. That approach gully looks frightening, strong work! I'm with Pete, that is one of the toughest mountains to get to in the range.

I just wanted to offer congratulations on joining the sirocco club. There is no going back!

True, but the standard scramble up to the WR notch via solid 3rd and 4th class gullies is super enjoyable, and highly recommended. September is perfect with the cooler temps and color in the valley. Of course this means you descend the Cascadian in dry conditions, but it isn't too bad if you are heading down. Carry a bunch of water though, the route is quite dry that time of year.

Cool route! I wouldn't have guessed it was relatively moderate, that is a pretty hard looking wall. Strong work!

Hey Jason4! We crossed early on the advice of a couple of folks we ran into that were coming down from checking out the Mythic Wall (they didn't do any climbing). The travel wasn't terrible on the west side, but it wasn't great either until we hit the talus. Seemed like you might hit talus sooner on the side we went on though? How was the east side? I think it took us about 2 hours camp to trail, so it may be a bit faster than the side you were on. Yes, I don't think most folks will mind the change to Kloke Peak, at least I hope not!

I think it is two more years, as we need to wait 5 years after his passing. But that is a a good point, I should edit the name to be Kloke rather than Skookum to get folks used to the idea. I plan on getting the support of the climbing community, local climbing clubs, and elected officials in the process and will turn in the application along with letters of support on the 5th anniversary of his death. I think the proposed rename fits perfectly with the US Board of Geographic Names criteria. Dallas was on the first ascent of the peak, and it is not officially named on USGS maps. Both Fred and John Roper have expressed their support for the name change. I think it is fitting that a peak known as Skookum - tough, strong, durable, or reliable- could be renamed Kloke Peak. Dallas was the epitome of "Skookum"! As a plus, it is visible from the family home in Anacortes.

Now we're talking. "maggot-filled eyesockets of DEATH" is a phrase you just don't see everyday.

Excellent! Way to tick them off. I will have to make it to the southern end one of these days....

Trip: Twin Sisters Range - Green Creek Select Circuit - Green Creek Arete, NE ridge S. Twin, etc. Date: 7/7/2013 Trip Report: Inspired by Darin's excellent TR recently on this, Gord and I cast off on a Saturday afternoon for camp under the Green Creek arete. We had no intentions of ticking all he did, and I'm glad. Just completing the Green Creek Arete, NE ridge of S. Twin, Jaw's tooth, Skookum, and NW rib (Darin's) of Little Sister took us around 17 hours camp to car! What he accomplished was a pretty amazing feat, but I think the "Select" version of his circuit has much to recommend for the weekend warrior who prefers to travel with partner and rope (though simul-climbing on the extremely textured olivine leads to surprisingly bad rope drag, even with the rope doubled). Just be aware the the bushwack to camp and the stream crossings are the real deal, Darin's not joking! I don't have much to add to the excellent info out there on this great destination, but I do want to stress the quality of the climbing on this select circuit. As has been said, the Jaw's Tooth/Skookum combo is probably the highlight, but I really enjoyed the Green Creek Arete/S. Twin link up as well, having never climbed S. Twin before. And the whole area has a surprisingly remote feel, considering the proximity to the Puget Sound masses. Check it out! Crossing Green Creek en route to camp: Camp under the Green Creek Arete: Gordo sizing up the Arete from the base: Topping out on the Arete. Wicked!: Cinderella and Little Sister from the top of the Arete: Great views of Baker are a constant companion on the Circuit: View south to the Skagit foothills across the Green Creek Glacier: Gordo approves of the climbing on the Jaw's Tooth: RIP Dallas. You are missed! North Ridge of Skookum, love it!: Topping out on Little Sister with the day's tour behind Gordo: Gordo getting psyched for the 'shwack: Crossing Green Creek on the way back to the car: Crossing the Middle Fork Nooksack in the dark by feeble headlamp was surprisingly tricky. The rolling rocks thudding in the river below added to the drama: Gear Notes: We brought a light single 60m rope and a medium rack. Seemed about right if you are planning on belaying anything. 60m rope nice for rap off Jaw's tooth. Crampons and ice axe. We used rock shoes on the Jaw's tooth as it is pretty slabby. Approach Notes: Follow Darin. As he said, this is a circuit that is best done before late July most years. Snow is your friend.

Great climb, but I think most of us are more interested in the TR associated with the last photo!

Don't forget Forest's piece in "The Climbing Life"!! Just got my copy today, and it looks amazing as usual....The cover shot in particular is stunning.

I'm with Gene, sleeping bag compartments are useless. Cut it. Or, better yet, get a +20/30 bag and a smaller pack (40-50l). The 70l could still come in handy for 6+ day trips, but a smaller pack is way more versatile and lighter.

I think we all have climbs where we should have turned around, given our ability and the conditions, but didn't. Glad to hear that it sounds like you recognize this and will adjust future plans accordingly. Luck eventually runs out, unfortunately. That said, I'm glad you held it together and came out of this friends. LR is a pretty serious undertaking in the conditions you experienced, as you now well know!