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Everything posted by JasonG
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Maybe, but there is probably a bit more to the story. Regardless, sounds like the Sherpas got way out of control. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2316109/Jonathan-Griffith-British-photographer-injured-terrifying-fight-climbers-Sherpas-close-peak-Mount-Everest.html
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Finally got around to adding captions..... Yeah, we thought that the SE face did look a little leaner as well. There appeared to be a couple of old crown lines and a lot of debris below the face. Maybe an avi cycle stripped a bunch off?
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[TR] Spring Mountain - Other Side of the Tracks 4/26/2013
JasonG replied to curtveld's topic in North Cascades
Excellent! Much less snow than last year, eh? TR like this always make me realize how torn I am in the spring....ski or rock? Skiing usually wins out, and my climbing ability reflects it. -
Ha! I'll try that next time I'm angling for a hall pass from the wife and kiddos- "But I'm on assignment for cc.com!" Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you like the photos.
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Trip: Silverstar - Silverstar Creek Date: 4/17/2013 Trip Report: After a week of summer it is hard for me to believe we were skiing boot top powder last Wednesday. But it's true! As most of you know, Hwy 20 opened last Tuesday afternoon, and I was able to rally a crew of the usual suspects to take off from work and enjoy a winterish spring day up in the North Cascades. The weather forecast wasn't perfect, but in retrospect it preserved the snow and made for a fantastic ski. We got a painfully early start so that we could try and beat the weather forecasted to come in later in the day. Still, with the long drive, carpool shenanigans, gas stop, etc., we weren't skinning until about 8:45ish. Lucky for us there were four folks about an hour in front of us breaking trail, and we made quick work up the valley from the highway. Coverage was surprisingly good down low and we were able to skin from the highway (ski crampons helpful). We we broke out of the heavy trees we were all impressed by the view (none of us had been this way before), and my pace slowed considerably to take some photos. Siverstar creek is an amazingly scenic valley, especially in winter conditions. As we ascended higher, the clouds got lower, and a light snow began to fall. The winds weren't bad though, and avi conditions seemed reasonable, so upwards we went on the well set track. We arrived at the col just below the summit and ditched the skis for the final boot/scramble to the top, which was a little spicier than I last remembered it. Thankfully we had Fausto to lead the Gordo step and show us the way. I think it took us about 4 hours to get to the summit, which was much faster than any of us thought. View were predictably limited, but dramatic, making for a memorable ski down, down, down to the valley floor. As we had noted on the way up, it skied much better than expected, ranking as one of my best runs of the season. We were back at the car less than seven hours after leaving, giving us enough time to head down to Early Winters campground for dinner with Scott and Meghan. Many thanks to them for the fine food and drink, and a fitting end to a spectacular day! The Wine Spires: Ski up and down the prominent glacier: Scenic skinning midway up the valley: The view west from just below the summit: Gordo Fausto is a handsome man. Book your trip with him today, dates are filling up fast!: Big Country: This dinner was almost better than the ski, thanks Meghan!: Gear Notes: ski crampons Approach Notes: Silverstar Creek
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I heard that Silverstar skied pretty well on Wednesday.
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Yep, I think Scott's saying "Dan skied that!??"
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Jason- you would be completely fine on Larrabee. It is somewhat steep, but not extremely so. I did put my SLR away for the descent (and forgot my little camera, thus no descent pics) to make sure that I was prepared and carried my ice axe, but it turned out to have softened enough to be pretty fun and not very stressful. Since I am on a split, this kind of stuff (45 degree firm/chunky snow) is about at the limits of what I find fun for going down. Most compentent skiers, with twice the effective edge as a split, wouldn't think twice about it. It is a great trip, and I certainly would recommend it for folks, esp. if you stare at it year after year from the Baker backcountry! There are some truly steep lines off Larrabee though that Dan, the Hummels, etc. ski. Those are impressive and out of my league! Just dropping off the summit to the east to access them looks scary. And yes, we should get out in the hills again!
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Trip: Mt Larrabee - SW slope Date: 4/3/2013 Trip Report: A few years ago Scott and I skied in to the Winchester LO just after New Year's, maybe thinking of skiing Larrabee if conditions warranted. Scott broke a binding on the first day, meaning that we had a nice stay in the LO, but had to leave first thing the next day without skiing any of the excellent terrain around the LO. Fast forward several winters and part of a spring, and Tim, Scott, and myself find ourselves back at the LO, ready for some spring corn and sun. Family Easter obligations in the San Juans meant that I squandered the best of the long weather window for our team, but we were able to squeeze this in at the very end. The weather was a bit in and out on the ski in and in the morning of the second day, but overall conditions were quite nice on south facing slopes- provided you didn't get too late of start. It took us about 5.5 hours or so to skin up to the LO from the highway on the first day, and I was beat. Luckily the clouds rolled in and I didn't have to choose between afternoon turns and rest. Instead, the hut reading material entertained us for the afternoon and evening, esp. some of the angst fueled entries in the hut log. Oh, to be young, earnest, and aimless again. The next day dawned foggy with very little viz for the ski down and over to Low/high pass. We waited and waited for the sun to burn through and eventually it did. We were underway about 1000, not optimal. I think it took us about 2.5-3 hours to ski and boot up to the summit with mostly good travel conditions. It got a little warm/soft near the top, but Tim gamely wallowed a trench for us up the final steep bit. It is quite a view from the summit! An interesting perspective on a number of peaks you don't see up close often, especially Slesse and American Border Peak, with the impressive north side of Shuksan dominating the view south. And, the best thing about a ski ascent is that all the notorious choss of Larrabee was covered by snow, making for a pleasant experience. The ski down wasn't anything special, but it was steep enough to get my attention given the variable conditions. Lower down we set off many wet slides, managing them so as not to get caught and carried. Pretty fun actually, and some of the slides entrained a good deal of snow. Just above High Pass the snow firmed up to nice corn for a long stretch, easily the best turns of the day. The 900' slog back up to the LO was predictably painful, but Tim and Scott did all the work for my sorry butt. A quick pack up and ski down to the road followed, traversing several large debris fields from earlier wet slides. That wasn't so fun. I think it took us a couple of hours, or a bit more, to ski down and out to the car where mosquitoes, beer, chips, and smoked salmon awaited. We hadn't seen another party or evidence of recent traffic anywhere past the upper road, making for another memorable North Cascades ski. A couple friends, a couple summits, and lots more ideas to fuel trips for years into the future. I love our backyard. Goat Mtn. and Shuksan in the growing gloom: Skinning up just below the LO. Tomyhoi in the clouds behind: Socked in and bored in the hut: Larrabee. We skied the left face, wrapping around to the bowl in the lower right of the frame: Scott marveling at ABP, emerging from the clouds: Shuksan dominates the view south: Topping out: The view east to the Pickets, etc.: The slog back up to the LO sucked the life from me, Tim and Scott pulling away: The NW Couloir right in the middle, maybe some day: Gear Notes: Whatever you need to feel comfortable on 40-45 degree icy snow and rock bands. Ski crampons and helmets useful. Approach Notes: Twin Lakes Rd. Park at the WSDOT maintenance shed if there is room, if not park at the Hannegan road snow park. Slog upwards for ~4500'
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Favorite climbing pack for ski mountaineering ?
JasonG replied to PandaExpress's topic in The Gear Critic
Yes, you need to take off the handle from the blade, but most should fit great (mine is a Voile T-wood). The shovel handle and probe have dedicated sleeves inside the back pocket. There is enough room for skins as well. Mine isn't an Avalung version, but it looks like that is all they sell now? Also, mine doesn't have velcro on the straps, just standard buckles that tighten. Looks like the new ones are similar in the photo, but maybe there is a bit of velcro to keep the straps from flapping (hard to see on the website). Great pack, I've used it for a couple seasons now and am impressed for the price point. $130 for the one I have online -
Favorite climbing pack for ski mountaineering ?
JasonG replied to PandaExpress's topic in The Gear Critic
I really like the BD Revelation. It has an insulated hydration sleeve that I've had good luck with well below freezing. Doesn't have pockets for pickets, but I usually don't bring them on ski trips as I always have an axe or pole that could be deadmanned if need be. -
Well, don't count on us, plans have changed. We're heading to the great white north.
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New Zealand suggestions
JasonG replied to alpine et's topic in The rest of the US and International.
You won't be disappointed hiking around Patagonia either! Technically the Linda Gl. on Cook is maybe a bit harder than Liberty Ridge, but not by much. With a heli assist to the Plateau hut, it is shorter, time wise. BUT, the Linda is certainly much, much more dangerous with huge ice cliffs that threaten a significant portion of the route (you descend the same way). We were so worried about it that we climbed Zurbriggen's ridge to avoid going up the Linda (this route isn't threatened by ice cliffs, but it is much steeper and harder than the Linda). Right as we were about to join the Linda at the summit rocks, one of the Gun Barrels let loose and shed a house sized block of ice across the ice shelf (right behind a team). My wife (this was our honeymoon) turned to me and said "Aren't we going down that way?" "Ummmmmmmm. Yeah". By the time we got back to the hut after 17 hours on the go we were shattered, and our feet were thrashed. Talk of climbing the Silverhorn on Tasman vanished. We ended up hiking out from the Plateau hut to save money, but I wouldn't recommend it. That was a whole different adventure! -
New Zealand suggestions
JasonG replied to alpine et's topic in The rest of the US and International.
You must try to climb this (photo stolen from http://www.alpinenz.com): The obviously elegant SW ridge of Aspiring is one of the best and most memorable climbs of my life. It is worth waiting a month for the weather, if you have to. We climbed it on 12/23, so your timing is right. Be prepared for a long day from the French Ridge hut, but it is worth every bit of the slog across the Bonar Gl. Mt. Cook is also a memorable climb by most routes (we climbed Zurbriggen's Ridge), but I can't say it was safe or nearly as enjoyable as Aspiring. If you want a sandfly infested bush bash, you may want to give Mitre Peak a go (you won't forget it). It's another long day, but what a view! No gear needed, except for a strong constitution. On the other end of the alpine spectrum, I think Mt. Owen up by Nelson is worth a visit. Better weather and amazing limestone formations make for a cool outing. Minor scrambling, but mainly a hike. Boulder at Castle Hill too, that place is incredible, and I'm not even a pad person. For a mountaineering oriented tramp, I can also recommend the Copeland track. It crosses the Main Divide to Westland National Park from Mt Cook Village and passes through an amazing cross section of the South Island, with a spectacularly situated hot spring en route. If you get the weather, any of the above will be quite beautiful. That said, you need to expect that the weather will not be stable. Think a warmer version of Patagonia. -
Great, thanks much. We may be heading that way so will bring a saw, etc...
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How many trees need to be cleared (and what size)? This is good info Kurt, thanks! And nice work on the Isolation!
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This is a fantastic site, thanks for updating and maintaining it! It is pretty much my go to for trip planning/research.
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Casey told me about this adventure a few days ago, and I couldn't wait for the TR! Just when I thought a face was safe from being skied, you guys went and expanded the possibilities yet again. Amazingly strong work!
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I picked this up a couple months ago and am very happy with the price/performance ratio. A great deal! http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/MensClothing/WindwearSoftShells/PRD~5019-388/mec-rd-windshell-jacket-mens.jsp
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Man, that guy hasn't even left the ledge and he looks gripped! Stuffing gear in the crack, Elvis leg, what is he even doing on that route?
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I would like there to be a few weeks each year where STIHLs qualify as a "reasonable exception" for trail maintenance. Thankfully, those crazy Canucks who maintain the Depot Creek route take this approach. But, I digress.
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While a 4 season tent by Hilleberg and the like will certainly work well, it really depends on how flexible you are and how much of a weather weenie you tend to be. Forecasts during the summer tend to be pretty accurate 24-48 hrs in advance, and I typically don't even bother driving down to Rainier if the weather is less than perfect (no clouds, low (<30mph) winds). Under these relatively common summertime conditions, you could use a Walmart pup tent (properly guyed).
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[TR] Dragontail - Triple Couloir Attempt 2/24/2013
JasonG replied to dave schultz's topic in Alpine Lakes
Actually what that route needs is some warming, then a freeze. Typically the runnels don't come in until late winter or early spring, depending on the weather. April/May is often better than dead of winter. Of course, then the ski conditions wouldn't be great, but it is tough to have it all. -
Well, in the eye of this beholder, common sense may finally prevail in this convoluted case: http://seattletimes.com/html/localnews/2020484110_apwagreenmountainlookout.html?prmid=obinsource
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Thanks for that, great write up. I imagine we will have a better idea of the effectiveness locally as these things become standard issue for those in the backcountry. Even if it is only a 30% increase in survival, that is still significant. As was stated though, terrain selection is, and always will be, key.