JasonG

Trip: Mt Larrabee - SW slope Date: 4/3/2013 Trip Report: A few years ago Scott and I skied in to the Winchester LO just after New Year's, maybe thinking of skiing Larrabee if conditions warranted. Scott broke a binding on the first day, meaning that we had a nice stay in the LO, but had to leave first thing the next day without skiing any of the excellent terrain around the LO. Fast forward several winters and part of a spring, and Tim, Scott, and myself find ourselves back at the LO, ready for some spring corn and sun. Family Easter obligations in the San Juans meant that I squandered the best of the long weather window for our team, but we were able to squeeze this in at the very end. The weather was a bit in and out on the ski in and in the morning of the second day, but overall conditions were quite nice on south facing slopes- provided you didn't get too late of start. It took us about 5.5 hours or so to skin up to the LO from the highway on the first day, and I was beat. Luckily the clouds rolled in and I didn't have to choose between afternoon turns and rest. Instead, the hut reading material entertained us for the afternoon and evening, esp. some of the angst fueled entries in the hut log. Oh, to be young, earnest, and aimless again. The next day dawned foggy with very little viz for the ski down and over to Low/high pass. We waited and waited for the sun to burn through and eventually it did. We were underway about 1000, not optimal. I think it took us about 2.5-3 hours to ski and boot up to the summit with mostly good travel conditions. It got a little warm/soft near the top, but Tim gamely wallowed a trench for us up the final steep bit. It is quite a view from the summit! An interesting perspective on a number of peaks you don't see up close often, especially Slesse and American Border Peak, with the impressive north side of Shuksan dominating the view south. And, the best thing about a ski ascent is that all the notorious choss of Larrabee was covered by snow, making for a pleasant experience. The ski down wasn't anything special, but it was steep enough to get my attention given the variable conditions. Lower down we set off many wet slides, managing them so as not to get caught and carried. Pretty fun actually, and some of the slides entrained a good deal of snow. Just above High Pass the snow firmed up to nice corn for a long stretch, easily the best turns of the day. The 900' slog back up to the LO was predictably painful, but Tim and Scott did all the work for my sorry butt. A quick pack up and ski down to the road followed, traversing several large debris fields from earlier wet slides. That wasn't so fun. I think it took us a couple of hours, or a bit more, to ski down and out to the car where mosquitoes, beer, chips, and smoked salmon awaited. We hadn't seen another party or evidence of recent traffic anywhere past the upper road, making for another memorable North Cascades ski. A couple friends, a couple summits, and lots more ideas to fuel trips for years into the future. I love our backyard. Goat Mtn. and Shuksan in the growing gloom: Skinning up just below the LO. Tomyhoi in the clouds behind: Socked in and bored in the hut: Larrabee. We skied the left face, wrapping around to the bowl in the lower right of the frame: Scott marveling at ABP, emerging from the clouds: Shuksan dominates the view south: Topping out: The view east to the Pickets, etc.: The slog back up to the LO sucked the life from me, Tim and Scott pulling away: The NW Couloir right in the middle, maybe some day: Gear Notes: Whatever you need to feel comfortable on 40-45 degree icy snow and rock bands. Ski crampons and helmets useful. Approach Notes: Twin Lakes Rd. Park at the WSDOT maintenance shed if there is room, if not park at the Hannegan road snow park. Slog upwards for ~4500'

Yes, you need to take off the handle from the blade, but most should fit great (mine is a Voile T-wood). The shovel handle and probe have dedicated sleeves inside the back pocket. There is enough room for skins as well. Mine isn't an Avalung version, but it looks like that is all they sell now? Also, mine doesn't have velcro on the straps, just standard buckles that tighten. Looks like the new ones are similar in the photo, but maybe there is a bit of velcro to keep the straps from flapping (hard to see on the website). Great pack, I've used it for a couple seasons now and am impressed for the price point. $130 for the one I have online

I really like the BD Revelation. It has an insulated hydration sleeve that I've had good luck with well below freezing. Doesn't have pockets for pickets, but I usually don't bring them on ski trips as I always have an axe or pole that could be deadmanned if need be.

Well, don't count on us, plans have changed. We're heading to the great white north.

You won't be disappointed hiking around Patagonia either! Technically the Linda Gl. on Cook is maybe a bit harder than Liberty Ridge, but not by much. With a heli assist to the Plateau hut, it is shorter, time wise. BUT, the Linda is certainly much, much more dangerous with huge ice cliffs that threaten a significant portion of the route (you descend the same way). We were so worried about it that we climbed Zurbriggen's ridge to avoid going up the Linda (this route isn't threatened by ice cliffs, but it is much steeper and harder than the Linda). Right as we were about to join the Linda at the summit rocks, one of the Gun Barrels let loose and shed a house sized block of ice across the ice shelf (right behind a team). My wife (this was our honeymoon) turned to me and said "Aren't we going down that way?" "Ummmmmmmm. Yeah". By the time we got back to the hut after 17 hours on the go we were shattered, and our feet were thrashed. Talk of climbing the Silverhorn on Tasman vanished. We ended up hiking out from the Plateau hut to save money, but I wouldn't recommend it. That was a whole different adventure!

You must try to climb this (photo stolen from http://www.alpinenz.com): The obviously elegant SW ridge of Aspiring is one of the best and most memorable climbs of my life. It is worth waiting a month for the weather, if you have to. We climbed it on 12/23, so your timing is right. Be prepared for a long day from the French Ridge hut, but it is worth every bit of the slog across the Bonar Gl. Mt. Cook is also a memorable climb by most routes (we climbed Zurbriggen's Ridge), but I can't say it was safe or nearly as enjoyable as Aspiring. If you want a sandfly infested bush bash, you may want to give Mitre Peak a go (you won't forget it). It's another long day, but what a view! No gear needed, except for a strong constitution. On the other end of the alpine spectrum, I think Mt. Owen up by Nelson is worth a visit. Better weather and amazing limestone formations make for a cool outing. Minor scrambling, but mainly a hike. Boulder at Castle Hill too, that place is incredible, and I'm not even a pad person. For a mountaineering oriented tramp, I can also recommend the Copeland track. It crosses the Main Divide to Westland National Park from Mt Cook Village and passes through an amazing cross section of the South Island, with a spectacularly situated hot spring en route. If you get the weather, any of the above will be quite beautiful. That said, you need to expect that the weather will not be stable. Think a warmer version of Patagonia.

Great, thanks much. We may be heading that way so will bring a saw, etc...

How many trees need to be cleared (and what size)? This is good info Kurt, thanks! And nice work on the Isolation!

This is a fantastic site, thanks for updating and maintaining it! It is pretty much my go to for trip planning/research.

Casey told me about this adventure a few days ago, and I couldn't wait for the TR! Just when I thought a face was safe from being skied, you guys went and expanded the possibilities yet again. Amazingly strong work!

I picked this up a couple months ago and am very happy with the price/performance ratio. A great deal! http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/MensClothing/WindwearSoftShells/PRD~5019-388/mec-rd-windshell-jacket-mens.jsp

Man, that guy hasn't even left the ledge and he looks gripped! Stuffing gear in the crack, Elvis leg, what is he even doing on that route?

I would like there to be a few weeks each year where STIHLs qualify as a "reasonable exception" for trail maintenance. Thankfully, those crazy Canucks who maintain the Depot Creek route take this approach. But, I digress.

While a 4 season tent by Hilleberg and the like will certainly work well, it really depends on how flexible you are and how much of a weather weenie you tend to be. Forecasts during the summer tend to be pretty accurate 24-48 hrs in advance, and I typically don't even bother driving down to Rainier if the weather is less than perfect (no clouds, low (<30mph) winds). Under these relatively common summertime conditions, you could use a Walmart pup tent (properly guyed).

Actually what that route needs is some warming, then a freeze. Typically the runnels don't come in until late winter or early spring, depending on the weather. April/May is often better than dead of winter. Of course, then the ski conditions wouldn't be great, but it is tough to have it all.

Well, in the eye of this beholder, common sense may finally prevail in this convoluted case: http://seattletimes.com/html/localnews/2020484110_apwagreenmountainlookout.html?prmid=obinsource

Thanks for that, great write up. I imagine we will have a better idea of the effectiveness locally as these things become standard issue for those in the backcountry. Even if it is only a 30% increase in survival, that is still significant. As was stated though, terrain selection is, and always will be, key.

All of these are great suggestions (esp. the Leukotape), but the main issue may be one of not getting out enough to toughen your heels/break in your boots. Once you find a good fitting boot, stick with it and do as much hiking in them as you can locally, so when you do your big mountaineering trips they aren't trashing your feet.

But where's the threat under the Northwest Forest Plan? I know that the plan isn't forever, but it sure seems like it has stood the test of many challenges thus far. I would be more than willing to chain myself to a tree if they try and push into roadless areas and start clear cutting up in the Golden Horn/Cutthroat/Liberty Bell areas. Until then, the status quo is working just fine.

I would view their proposal more favorably if the areas north and south of the North Cascades Highway Scenic Corridor were added to the adjacent wilderness areas and managed under the USFS rather than the NPS.

I have to say that I'm really impressed by all the great images this year, in every category. Nice work people!

Sunrise on the Southern Pickets from the false summit of Luna Peak.

Skinning below Phyllis's Engine enroute to East Castle Peak, B.C.

Reid Headwall in January, Mt. Hood.

Extreme Alpinism starts at the trailhead. Mt. Harvey, B.C.