Jump to content

Pete04

Members
  • Content count

    64
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Pete04

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 10/14/1981

Converted

  • Location
    Sacramento
  1. Colin Haley's Enormocast

    Not sure if there are any Enormocast listeners out there, but I'm pretty sure there are some Colin Haley fans on here. So, if you're interested he's the subject of the most recent Enormocast. http://enormocast.com/
  2. BD Cyborg dual point, pro clip

    That's fair feedback - thank you. I'll also take best offer if it's good, but if I can't get in the ballpark of what I paid for them I'll probably just sell them to a friend for way cheap or just purchase a pair of compatible boots rather than taking a loss. (I have to buy new crampons to fix a compatibility problem between these and my La Sportiva Trango S - if I have to take $100+ loss then I might just buy true ice boots rather than make do with what I have).
  3. BD crampon clip/strap advice

    ... bummer. They're now up on Yard Sale
  4. BD Cyborg crampons. Worn once. They go for $200 on Backcountry.com or Blackdiamond.com. 180?
  5. BD crampon clip/strap advice

    It sounds like you understood the question, but if I can buy the BD Cyborg with either type (Pro or Clip) I assumed I should be able to switch the type myself. Maybe it's not as simple as switching the toe basket, but hopefully I can perhaps buy a conversion kit or something...
  6. I want to convert my BD Cyborg with Pro Straps to Clip Straps because my boots don't have the proper toe. Does anyone know how to transfer the straps from one set of crampons to another? I have a general mountaineering BD crampon that I'd like to cannabilize for its standard clip strap.
  7. Odd Arc'teryx instruction

    Interesting, thanks. I never even thought of leaving a PAS girth hitched to one point as that would obviously create wear, but I guess I could see folks doing that. I would think that girth hitching through both tie in points would weaken the dyneema/PAS/etc; but, I've got 0 evidence for that so I'll defer to your 50% number. As you pointed out 50% of 22kN is still pretty darn good and as long as you don't take a fall on the static dyneema/PAS/etc (which could be catastrophic) it probably won't result in failure.
  8. 1/2 rope on alpine route

    I wanted to add a safety note to this thread in case anyone were to stumble across it. Folding over a 1/2 rope and using it as a single is NOT advisable. Unless... you were to clip the pieces separately. Half ropes should not be clipped together because the impact force could pull or break gear. Only twins should be clipped together. For the curious amongst us, reference Layton's Climbing Faster, Stronger, Healthier page 447.
  9. Reading the fine print of my new harness (Arc'teryx AR 395a), I read a warning not to girth hitch anything to the belay loop because it can focus abrasion on a single location. Huh? Does anyone have any insight into why Arc'teryx would give this instruction as girth hitching seems pretty common if not fundamental whether girth hitching a PAS or dyneema. Is it just legal cya or is there something to that guidance?
  10. Compelled to Climb- Have a few Questions

    Freedome of the Hills is "the Bible" of mountaineering, but it's kind of like a children's Bible. Good pictures and you get the point, but if you want to get serious about it you'll be left wanting more. I guess I just look at my bookcase and FotH is surrounding by other books that cover the same topics in more depth. If you're looking to save money, I'd start with skipping FotH. I'd recommend Michael Layton's Climbing Beyond the Basics as an overview book that isn't too broad to be useful. I took a trad anchors class at J Tree that was great https://www.joshuatreerockclimbing.com/sem4.html. I also have a friend who's an single-pitch rock instructor in Northern California. If you're interested, I'll send you his info. My crevasse rescue class with Rainier Mountaineering was great. My "Mountaineering Class" with RMI was a waste of time and money. All classes are good, but specific well-tailored classes are well worth the money. In Cali, there are some great resources. Sierra Mountain Guides is a fantastic company based out of Bishop. Classes may seem expensive, but the amount you'll learn (especially if you prepare beforehand) is fantastic. Also, you'll be trusting your life to your skills - probably worth the extra few $100 bucks
  11. Compelled to Climb- Have a few Questions

    RTHo, Climbing Beyond the Basics has everything! Forget Freedom of the Hills. If I could do it all over again I would do these things in this order. - Take an anchors class preferably trad anchors. - Take a crevasse rescue class. Read Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue - Take an avy class. Read Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain - Find internet partners who are officially experienced (guides, ski patrol, etc) and safe and pick their brains. - Get a puffy and always take it with you. That's your get out of jail free card when you screw up and get stuck out all night, which you will. If you ever want to climb in the Tahoe or Yosemite area, send me a PM.
  12. Awesome story - thanks!
  13. I caught this video today and it left me wanting more. Skagit Alpinism hasn't been updated in a while, so does has anyone here have any details/news?
  14. Biggest climbing achievement in January?

    The Dawn Wall ascent was beyond awesome - don't get me wrong. I was just a little surprised to see it on my BBC App this morning and then hear about it on NPR on the commute home. That's what's hard to understand - not the validity of the praise due Caldwell. ScaredSilly, thanks for the history lesson. There was a conspicuous lack of "first" in the article.
×