bitin

Folks, my friend and I are going to try DNB on Bear mountain in two weeks. Any beta would be welcome. Particularly: a. approach from Canadian side b. do we need full crampons for glacier or aluminum 1/2 crampons are ok? c. any beta/topo for the bottom half of the climb? What guidebook has it? d. whatever else you want to share. Thanks a lot!! boris.

Josh, how is Sherpa glacier by beginning of August? I just can't get it: it's 95F in Leavenworth, so it's 75-80F at the glacier. Does it not melt/crack all over the place? How bad is falling ice/rock situation in the afternoon? How steep is it? It does look very tempting to use it for a descent route but what kind of shape is it in? Thanks a lot! Boris.

Thanks a bunch for good advice!

Thanks a bunch! Lots of good advice. b. I was hoping to spend 2-3 days there, to do Dragontail and Colchuk routes. Stupid rules. How difficult is it to get walk-in permit midweek? c. Do you think, Sherpa will still be covered ok in the beginning of August? The guidebook says that it sorta melts and becomes tricky. It would be much more convenient, of course, we could combine it with Colchuk Lake stuff and sleep over... Enjoy your climbing!

Folks, I'll be climbing in Cascades in three weeks and I've never been there before. I have a bunch of questions concerning approaches, routes, access issues. Advice would be very very appreciated. I am an experienced mountaineer and rock climber. We are considering the following routes: Sleuss Mtn, Northeast Buttress Bear Mtn, North Buttress Lexington Tower East Face Forbidden Peak, East Ridge Direct Mt Stuart North Ridge Dragontail Peak and Colchuk Rock a. We'll try to do the routes in one day - no multiple day logging, so we have to move light. Do we really need crampons/ice axes/heavy boots on? Is it snow or ice? Is it usually frozen at night or is temperature above freezing? Is it possible to use crampons over light approach shoes - I never tried it but it could be fun b. Access issues: Colchuk Lake - it's completely booked. Is it possible to sneak in? How serious are rangers about enforcing regulations? Is it possible to hide a tent there, to have it up only at night? How bad are mosquitoes in early August? c. Mt Stuart North Ridge. Seems like southern approach is easier but one has to go around the mountain all the way. How difficult/slow is northern approach/descent? Is it worth it? d. Sleuss Mtn - looks like we have to descent to a different road. What's the best way to handle this situation? Is it possible to rent another car or bicycle locally in the vicinity? Thanks a lot!!! Boris.

Thanks, man. Difficult decision, this. Hate trudging snow on snowshoes...

Guys and gals, my friend and I are planning to do Ptarmigan ridge this weekend. The rangers said that there was a lot of snow down there and they didn't sound all that enthusiastic about us doing the route. Has anybody done the route recently? What are the conditions? Thanks a lot! Boris.

Thanks a lot! I just ordered it from Mountaingear.com. Boris.

Thanks!

Folks, my friend and I are considering making a technical traverse around Rainier (glacier, at about 10,000+ feet altitude). Would you offer any beta/suggestions/advise? Has anybody done it? What route is better to choose? How long would it take. We are both pretty decent mountaineers/ice climbers but we have only four days (July 4th weekend). thanks a lot. Boris.