JasonG

Ah, such a classic! Isn't that NR bivy one of the best spots around? Thanks for those pictures, fantastic. But, I have to say that the moat picture really freaked me out! It looks like that finger is about to break at any moment. Is that on the way to the bivy notch? It seems like you normally can get onto the rock much lower and climber's right pretty easily. Is that not the case anymore?

Love that climb, sounds like you had a good day. Isn't that Argonaut instead of Sherpa on the right of the photo?

Good points, expectations often color our impressions of climbs. I guess I was never thinking that it was going to be something with super memorable pitches like the NR of Stuart or the NE ridge of Bugaboo spire. I can certainly understand your disappointment if you were!

You don't need a real heavy rock set up - you can do it with a 37m glacier rope (incld. rap(s)) and a few nuts and tri cams. Very short pitch with only a couple fifth class moves from what I remember. That said, a 60m half rope would allow you to not have to do as much down climbing shenanigans (and climb on a real rope), though I don't remember my wife complaining too much, so it can't be THAT bad. Much, much better than the scramble route and actually pretty good/fun climbing on solid rock. Such a classic outing, thanks for the TR!

So cool. I need to get a place in Bishop.

I wonder how many roads could have been fixed with the money used to facilitate the meetings? In all seriousness though, I thank folks for making my job easier by gathering a list of roads to advocate for. I plan to do a little more research and submit my comments via the web form. We'll see how this turns out, but it isn't looking great for access for my young boys and future grandkids. It's a shame.

Where's Kyle off to?

Hey ladies (and dudes)- You should take Tim up on this, he isn't even creepy! Good luck man, wish I could join you this week but work is calling.

So true- so very, very true.

This may just be my favorite part of the whole crazy story. GREAT writing- my toes went numb, thawed, and I got the screaming barfies, sitting here at my desk.

I've just skimmed this and it is one of the best TRs EVER. YeeeeeeeeeeeeHaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwww boys, way to git 'er dun! And, it warms my heart to see that Peter had such a good time before he "passed". When Ezra's older, I'll tell him where his Easter Bunny went.

Interesting study. I will forward to my wife, she was 4 months pregnant when we climbed Rainier a few years back. Our son seems OK, but I wish he'd stop asking so many questions sometimes .

Wow! We must have just missed you by a few days. Would have been pretty surreal to run into you and Donn on the Mustard!

Chippenalpen! What is Joe thinking in that manwich? Glad I could send some help your way, I got to get up there one of these summers. Amazing.

That's funny Darin, because that is exactly what I was thinking- "This is no place for a young father!". And Matt, I agree, I can't think of another summit where the descent is so involved stressful except maybe Lincoln or Assassin Spire. Although I imagine that some of the seldom climbed Pickets must be similar. And there is no doubt I will be climbing for many more years, these kind of trips make you appreciate the amazingly diverse backyard we have in the Cascades. I'm glad that folks enjoyed the photos - I needed to have something to remember the climb by as I probably won't be back, unless the NPS puts up the via ferrata Zak was talking about. We could make it a family ascent with our kiddos.

Trip: Mount Terror - North Face (Stoddard Buttress) Date: 7/27/2013 Trip Report: The name alone is enough to give one pause, but for our party a planned ascent of the North Face of Mount Terror had special significance. Several years ago the mountain had almost claimed Steve's life in a freak rockfall accident, which resulted in a member of his party spending four unplanned nights in the Terror Hilton. For those that would like detail on the accident and aftermath, Steph has a page dedicated to the event on her site. It was only with fast climbing and a lucky cell phone call placed by Steph and Donn, that Steve pulled through. It took a better part of a year after the event for Steve to heal completely from his many injuries, and soon he talked of returning to Terror. For a variety of reasons (were we all still too afraid?) the return ending up taking four years to materialize. While I don't know what Steve and Gord were thinking, the accident still weighed heavy on my mind as we made plans to head up on a focused mission to climb the North Face of Terror over three days. Though none of us expressed any misgivings aloud, I think we all felt that this wasn't going to be an ordinary climb, though hopefully safe. Knowing that we had a strenuous approach ahead of us on day one, we got a decently early start, stopping at the ranger station en route to the new Goodell Creek TH. The old road was in better shape, brush-wise, than I last remembered it, and about 1.5 hours from the car we were embarking on the dreaded Crescent Creek climber's path. Fortunately for us, this "trail" has seen a lot of use in the last five years and was much, much better than I last remembered it. Even still we had to pay attention to stay on it, but really there isn't much bushwhacking to speak of any longer. Still, with 6K of gain to Terror camp, we didn't exactly fly up. I think it was about 7.5 hours to Terror camp (space for two small tents). The next day we got up at 0400 and were away by 0500 towards the Ottohorn-Himmelhorn col. This was the first challenge of the day and it wasn't that easy in the mid season conditions we found. Hard steep snow, 4th class choss, a couple raps, and some moat action later and we were established on the Mustard Gl. and could begin our weave towards the route. The Mustard was already pretty broken, more so that we were expecting, but we were able to find our way over to the route without too much trouble. The first bit off the glacier was mostly 3rd and 4th class and we scrambled to the left edge of a permanent snow patch and roped up. I'm not sure what time this was, but the approach had taken a long time. Steve led the charge up and left to the crest, gaining it a few hundred feet below the accident site. As a team of three, we had one leader just off the middle of the rope and the two followers behind. This forced us to simul probably more than we would have otherwise, hopefully speeding up the large amount of climbing on this route. While the climbing was pretty easy on the lower buttress, it was steep enough with just enough pro to keep us on our toes. Immediately below the accident site, we did a rap off the crest down to easier ledges to get around a particularly steep step in the ridge (Beckey talks about this). On the way to regain the crest, we ran smack into the "Terror Hilton" and the gear left from the accident. We stopped for a break and quietly contemplated the scene. I have to admit that it was spooky and didn't do much to lighten the mood, considering our position on the wild north side of the Southern Pickets. After a bit, Steve and I grabbed some gear (some still remains) and off we started up into the unknown, past the fall site and above. The buttress began to steepen and we made sure to take our time to keep everyone safe, considering the somewhat sparse pro and looseness (though in general the rock is pretty good). Where the original NF route joins the Stoddard buttress we had to scratch our heads for a bit to figure out the right way (I won't ruin it for you), but we continued to find a moderate way through some hard looking sections. This kept the suspense high all the way to the false summit, and I won't lie to say we were all relieved we joined the standard west ridge route in the evening. The wind was rising and mists were swirling as Steve, Gord, and myself dropped off the false summit and climbed on steep 4th class ground to the true summit. What a summit! The whole summit area looks to be ready to fall down the north face, and you are right in the middle of the crazy fence that is the Southern Pickets. The sun made a brief appearance right before sunset and it was one of the more dramatic summits I can ever remember. All the tension of the day was beginning to wash away, then I looked at Steve who had his phone out, checking for a signal. "No Service", Steve said. Ohhhhhhh, right. It ain't over yet, and the sun was fast setting. We didn't waste much time scrambling down the west ridge until we could make a couple 30m raps into the notch. From here a chossy gully, steep snow, overhanging chockstone rap, and more steep snow brought us back to camp, in the dark, about 17 hours after leaving (in the dark). Although we were too tired to really celebrate, the Canadian Hunter went down real easy with our belated dinners and we just sat and savored the twilight, stars, and Milky Way. We had faced the mountain of our fears and came away intact, in every sense. You alpine climbers know the rest of the story- a late start, looking back over your shoulder at the peak on the deproach, the endless road walk, cotton!, food!, BEER!, loved ones, shower, bed, and the rude alarm Monday morning. Steve concentrates on the Terror Creek log crossing. The big cedar of years past is now underwater. Above the worst of it, but still with a long way to go Feeling it, ~6K above the car. Gord checking out Terror for the first time At Terror camp, the team contemplates the day ahead. Rapping into the Mustard Gl. The Stoddard Buttress is the left skyline. Gordo low on the route, Fury behind Gord at the "Terror Hilton". Not a very welcoming spot to spend four nights. Note the rope that caught Steve's fall in the foreground, and water from the NPS that helped sustain Jason in the background. McMillan Spires Steve and Gord at a belay high on the route. Which way? McMillan Cirque is a wild place. McMillan Spires on left, Degenhardt on right, Inspiration in the middle. Nearing the summit, now climbing on the normal route Looking beyond Picket Pass to the Northern Pickets Steve on top of Terror after a very long journey. Looking down into Goodell Creek, past Terror camp, to Despair (L) and Blum ® Mists swirling around the fence Sunset on the Chopping Block and Triumph Gear Notes: 60m half rope, medium rack, Al crampons, helmet, ice axe, tat, rock shoes (if you don't like 5.7/.8 in boots). Approach Notes: The Crescent Creek Climber's path is getting surprisingly well-defined. That said, you need to pay attention to keep on it. Took us about 7.5 hours to Terror Camp

For old, fat, and lazy, you guys clocked in with a pretty impressive RT time! Eldo is always a great day out in the hills, glad you had perfect weather to enjoy it.

Wow, that is quiet for the summertime on Olympus! Sounds like a great trip.

BOOM! Now there is the way to do that trip in style, nice work. I really wish we would have seen something from the summit of Sinister!

I also find your impression of the route interesting; it helps illustrate how subjective the climbing game is. I'm with Lowell and Dan in that I think it is one of the better/more enjoyable routes I've done. Not so much for the rock quality, but the entire package: the approach, setting, and line all make for a memorable outing.

Trip: Nooksack Tower - Beckey-Schmidtke/Upper North Face Date: 7/22/2013 Trip Report: "But I'm losing my edge. I'm losing my edge, but I was there. I was there. But I was there." I couldn't push James Murphy's words from my mind as I stared down at several thousand feet of sketchy terrain from the summit of Nooksack Tower. Steve had made it happen to get Gord and myself up to this exposed perch, but I was beginning to think I didn't have what it took any longer to climb these types of routes. Of course, the climb had intimidated/scared me for years, so I really shouldn't have been surprised. Both the Beckey and Nelson descriptions didn't make it sound like a walk in the park, and it certainly wasn't. It didn't help that we got off route and onto the North face, making the climbing much harder than it needed to be (as we found on the descent of the proper Beckey rte.). But we had Steve along, and he was not to be defeated, so all worked out in the end. I'm just glad he led the harder stuff! For aspiring Nooksack Tower ascensionists my advice would be to go early to mid July to make the snow gully easier, and traverse hard left across 3 or so ribs as soon as feasible once you've climbed up and right from the snow gully. Then, basically traverse left until you get to 3rd/4th class gully that will take you to the summit. This is key, don't be pulled up and right by the numerous rap stations-these led to the North face . Alpine Select gives this variation a 5.7/.8 rating and it felt quite spicy in boots. Other than that, don't expect it to be relaxing! I was seriously humbled by Nooksack Tower on our 19 hour camp to camp ascent, including burning three(!) pickets on the double rope 'schrund raps in the dark. But, it is an amazing summit and a worthy adventure. Even if it shows you that you've lost your edge... As usual, my photos are probably better than my words: No paper, no problem. Nooksack Cirque trail register: The infamous Nooksack log crossing. Maybe the fact that we didn't walk across should have been the first indication that we were about to get schooled: The "trail" up to Price lake is pretty steep, though somewhat distinct: Scenic hiking up the moraine along Price Lake: Price Gl. icefall: The views from camp are OK: We actually used most of this on the descent to back up/create stations. It doesn't get climbed much: Starting up the gully luge run: Gordo, high on the route: The Price is no joke: Steve nears the summit: Seahpo and Jagged Ridge above the East Nooksack Gl.: Steve getting in range to rap over the double 'schrund. Steep!: Nooksack Tower!: Lovely Price Lake: Gear Notes: Steel crampons, axe, second tool, two ropes, 3-4 pickets, and lots of tat. We left a bunch of fresh stuff this year, but it doesn't get climbed much. If in earlier season, you probably can get away without a lot of the snow/ice gear. Approach Notes: Drop down and cross the Nooksack on a log after entering big timber on the trail. The "trail" to Price lake is pretty well defined if you look for it. It took us about 5 hours to camp.

The Scarpas won't ride nearly as well as the TLT5s, at least without serious mods. They're too stiff in my split experience. That said, I've been riding Scarpas for the last 9 years because I am too cheap to buy new boots! They will work, you just won't be able to get too rad.

Ah geez, another PNW convert . Nice work after a couple frustrating years! Just be sure to tell folks back home that it rained again this year.

Yeah guys!! The chocolate bunny was the key, I just know it.

This thread needs ALLCAPS. WHERE ARE YOU?