JasonG

Wow, that is an impressive effort for your kids (and you herding them along)! Inspiring, as I have two boys, 3 & 5. who I try to get out in the hills as much as possible.

Excellent! I love that climb. When you get your first view of Cruiser, you think that there is no way that it could be easy fifth class. Such a memorable trip!

"Jam those hands Dave, keep jamming those hands".

Way to open the season on this! Did you find double raps to be worth the effort? I've heard to limit it to singles to minimize stuckage, but you would know.

Great story and images! I'm far too lazy for these sorts of adventures, but I do admire the style.

Thanks! John, you probably know Hozo better than most anyone. I've always loved your images of both peaks, but especially this one.

More importantly, has anyone climbed the landslide direct?? With modern tools and some pickets, it should go. Don't scoop me.

Ah Ha, that isn't very intuitive, but quite interesting. Thanks for the correction!

Trip: North Hozomeen - NE ridge Date: 6/3/2013 Trip Report: North Hozomeen! The photo above was taken several years ago on a trip up the South Peak with Tim and Gord. It has hung on my wall in the intervening years and I have looked at that right hand skyline and wondered. Beckey makes it sound pretty mellow, and it was first climbed nearly one hundred years ago, but it is Hozomeen, and that name deserves respect in my experience. While not quite as hard as the South Peak, the North Peak does make an impression in early season, and we had a memorable climb. It started with the deadline nearing for Scott's return to the Bering sea for a summer of sodden toil on the fishing grounds. He really wanted to go for South Hozomeen, but Gordo and myself couldn't be convinced, perhaps the North peak would suffice? With the destination set, we met at Timmy's across from Sumas and flew up the Fraser at the usual Gordo pace. The road to upper Ross lake went faster than expected as well due to recent grading, and we found ourselves stashing beer in the US before hopping across the bordering and following the swath up, up, up to our high camp. Around 5000' we left the swath for an obvious drainage that led to a high col very near the peak. We found a remarkably perfect spot to pitch the Hilleberg and settled in for a damper than expected evening. We really hoped for the forecasted clearing! It was about 5 hours to camp. The next day came early, warm, and overcast. Hmmmmmm. We headed up, through the notch, and down into the basin on the north side of the peak. Here, we had a couple of options. The easiest way would be to go up the ski line pioneered by Sky et al., but we had a rope and rack and Gordo! We were going for something more fitting of our uber alpine guide, so we traversed left to the start of the NE ridge. I took a look at the slimy, loose, and unprotectable start and told Gordo he had this pitch. After he brought us up, Scott took the sharp end for a bit before coming back to the belay due to more of the above. I declined the lead, once again, and suggested that maybe the ski line would be not such a bad way to go after all? Gordo was having none of it. He promptly took that rack and set off, finding two somewhat OK pieces in 100+ feet of wet, slimy, fourth/low-fifth. I'm glad we had him along! The rest of the ridge was lower angle, but very exposed with fine alpine flavor. A snow arete led to a very exposed 3rd/4th class section before another corniced arete that finished on the lonely summit. We dug around for a couple minutes and produced the brass register (unfortunately a rarity these days) place by Don Goodman in 1992. Interestingly, the last entry was by Colin and Dylan, from their aborted Zorro face trip last summer. We had a good time reading through the entries, about 1-2 per year or so, waiting for the views to open up. The clouds looked like they were going to lift, but never really did, making for a dramatic day overall. I would have like to see a bit more, especially a good view of the north face of South Hozomeen. After an hour on the summit we carefully backed down the upper NE face, which was straightforward, except for a thin bit a third of the way down. We should have had our crampons on, but it went OK. Glissading and booting back to camp was quick and soon we were packing for the steep, hammering descent down the swath. This went pretty smoothly, staying in the swath itself (cleared in the last few years?) or on the Canadian side for most of the way down. The bugs were noticeably worse on the way down, and we hear that they are downright horrendous later in the summer. Early season is key for both peaks of Hozomeen, but you will have the peak to yourself regardless of your chosen date. Neither are "classic" in the traditional sense, but I certainly think both are well worth climbing for the Cascade connoisseur. You won't forget either. Gordo, "We must follow this strange, very wide trail to 5000 feet" Rain showers were the theme of Day 1. Starting out on Day 2: Scott, above the first step and about to tackle the second: Topping out on the second step: The alpine finish to the NE ridge in early season conditions: The summit! Ross lake in the mist: The upper part of the SW buttress. Wild! Carefully descending the NE ridge: With apologies to Sky, bipedal "Hozone Pollution": "You stay on your side, and I'll stay on mine" The Sequester's effects stretch to Ross Lake: Walking out on the dry lake bed to admire North Hozo: 6500' above the car, the top of Hozo's Zorro face rears above the trees: Gear Notes: 60m half rope. Very light rack (you won't be able to place much gear). HELMET. ice axe, etc. Approach Notes: Follow Beckey

Yes Kurt and Forest, though not a route to take new climbers on, if I remember correctly. TR here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=896257

Spire Point, regular route, easy fifth. The E. face of Mixup may be difficult to access by late July, depending. The notch to access the route is guarded by an impressive moat. Also, this route is probably not best for newbie climbers. Loose rock and very exposed scrambling between the fifth class parts. Overall, the climb is unnerving for many folks. I've heard good things about that route on the German Helmet, but have not climbed it myself. You may also want to look into the traverse of the summit ridge on Dome. Although, we just spent the time it would have taken to do it and lounged on the summit for several hours, which seemed like a better way to spend an afternoon. There isn't a lot of great rock along the Ptarmigan, except on Dome. Have fun, it's my favorite long traverse in the Cascades!

It's not public land though, is it? Why demonize Weyerhaeuser? I understand that everyone got used to the access, but it isn't like they have to let climbers in. Acting like you deserve it won't get you anywhere.

But they can detain you for refusing to answer questions, no? Seems like trying to stick it to the man could lead to unpleasant consequences. Of course, if you don't have anywhere to be, it might be fun.

Thanks for that, I think the Fed is hoping nobody notices, distracted by the record high Dow. Of course, the Fed's QE is reason folks are pouring money into stock market. Strange times.

Thanks for continuing to be an inspiration throughout the years Wayne, still crushing!

What is this "public access tax break?" I haven't heard of this before....

I just got it, but haven't put it to use yet. I just retired a Revelation after using it extensively during the last several years and was very pleased. I don't see why the Serenity would be much worse. That said, it probably won't be as durable as the Revelation. Just don't fall.

Big changes are being rolled out this week: http://www.nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/food-storage-requirements.htm Some negative conditioning of wildlife in BB and other high traffic areas (and certainly better food storage by many visitors) would go a long way in preventing issues, but the Park Service hasn't been too hot on hazing cheeky wildlife. In AK/BC and other areas, I know that this is used to great effect. However, if storage containers are the preferred path, seems like metal lockers at many of the listed locations would be a better course. They have these in other areas of the park complex. Personally, I've never had an issue with anything other than snaffles in many years of camping in the park.

Thanks to all, and esp. to Jon for herding all the cats on cc.com!

Now that is pretty cool. I love the fact that he is lugging camera gear and taking the time to make great shots. Thanks!

True, I don't think the summit of Everest will ever see some BASE action. But they were pretty high up nonetheless. 7200m!

I imagine you have a lot steeper glide slope at that altitude!

And, if you help out, you won't be limited to human powered tools. The LO is in the land of legal two stroke! Few things get me excited like clearing trail with a chainsaw. I know of a few Choss Dogs who would love to lend a hand, several of whom are on this site. Thanks to John and Steph for spearheading this noble endeavor!

Amen brother. These atrocities have gone on too long for us to stay silent.

Thanks much! It looks like something you'd see dropped in a ski movie, pretty cool. And, those are all really cool lines you skied this past winter, all are certainly on my list. Though that NF of Fitzsimmons does look scary from an avi perspective....well done!