JasonG

Well, Ueli wouldn't use crap, now would he? Maybe Sepultura could weigh in- I think he has had these for a couple seasons and is happy with them. They're pretty good looking if you can find a deal like you did. Pretty spendy for full list. I wouldn't expect them to be any more durable than the Trangos.

You're welcome. I added some captions to the photos, although it sounds like most of you know what you are looking at. You're right Scott, time to get the skis waxed!

While the Link is germane to the discussion, I think the bigger issue is you going back and looking at the OP's question.

Trip: Dumbell & Greenwood - Standards Date: 9/26/2013 Trip Report: Scott spends his summers toiling away on the fishing grounds of the Bering Sea, so when he returns each September he is really motivated to get out. Motivation is infectious, so when the UW model trended much worse just the day before we were set to leave, I ignored it and went with the sunny icon on the NWS site. The first indication that this was a mistake was pretty early, 0730 to be exact, when we drove through rain on the way up and over Stevens. Oh well, at least we brought whiskey. The normally jammed parking lot at the Phelps Creek TH was empty save for another two vehicles, and after the first half mile of trail we didn't see anyone else for the rest of the trip. Marveling at what tough hombres the old miners were, and chatting about our respective summers meant Scott and I were through Spider Meadow (fabulous as always) and in upper Phelps Basin before we knew it. The clouds continued to swirl and thicken, but Scott was still motivated, so up we continued into the basin below Dumbell. There is somewhat of a faint climbers trail to the left of the creek that descends from the upper basin. Our plan was to drop gear at the base of Dumbell, go tag Greenwood, and come back and bivy on the summit of Dumbell. The first part of the plan went mostly without a hitch, and both Scott and I were suitably impressed with the exposure and position of the ledge connecting the two objectives of the trip. Snow and ice gave an added measure of alpine flavor to this section, and made us briefly wish we had gaiters (sorry Gordo). The rest of the ascent of Greenwood was mostly a walk in the clouds, though they did part briefly on the summit. Fine tent sites are found on the ridge halfway up from the col, but we weren't in a position to take advantage of them. Turns out this was a good thing. Retracing our steps back to our packs was pretty quick, and soon we were eyeing the route up Dumbell. Snow and ice made the normally solid class three a bit more challenging than expected with full packs, and Scott and I regrouped a couple hundred feet below the top to discuss. The forecasted (NWS) mostly sunny had never materialized that day (more like mostly cloudy), and things were supposed to be much worse the next with precip. The terrain between us and the summit was snowy and icy, and we were unsure that the summit was roomy enough for our tent (didn't look to be big enough from below). However, it was only 3 pm, and there was ample firewood in the basin below.....we dropped our packs and quickly scrambled the last bit to the top. One look at the snow filled single bivy site on top and we knew we had made the right call. Scott and I like each other well enough, but there is no reason to push it. After about a half hour, Scott and I couldn't delay the descent any longer and off we went to collect our packs and reverse the 2500' down to the upper basin camp. This went better than expected through the snow covered talus and slippery heather and a couple hours later we were gathering firewood and setting up the tent next to a huge boulder at the end of the trail. The extra white gas we had packed for summit snow meltage made fire ignition in the face of a rain squall trivial. Time for the Canadian Hunter! The next day dawned grey, windy, and snowy. Dumbell was in the clouds. At the trail's end, Scott start up towards Dumbell (out of view to the right): Crossing the very exposed ledge between Dumbell and Greenwood: Unmapped tarn below Greenwood/Dumbell saddle: Fernow and Seven Fingered Jack: Scott heading back to Dumbell (over his head): Reversing the key ledge: Dumbell: Scott approaching the summit of Dumbell: The south side of Bonanza: Greenwood from the summit of Dumbell: Chiwawa: Copper, Fernow, 7FJ (L-R): Scott is thinking we made the right call: Rain squall over Spider Meadow: Camp in Phelps Basin: A rainy Spider Meadow on the hike out: Gear Notes: Helmet, ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: Follow the hundred highest crew

Fantastic images, great climbs, and even better friends. Always an inspiration Mark, thanks!

That be the NE Couloir

As Tvash pointed out, the best sites are a couple hundred feet below the summit of Greenwood on the summit ridge, lots of flat space for tents of any size. The summit on Dumbell has space for one bivy sack comfortably, but even a BD tent is too much. TR to follow in a few days...

Excellent guys, thanks for the info! Headed up tomorrow so will hopefully report back in a few days.

The sleds keep it pretty well worked in for some ways (Rainy Pass?) on the west side. You park at the Ross lake TH gate, most years, though I have had to park down at Colonial Creek CG. Plenty of parking off the road at either spot usually. It is much, much better to skin in from the east side if you are heading to WA pass.

Wondering if there is enough room on the summit of Dumbell or Greenwood for a small BD firstlight? Heard there was on Dumbell, but the map makes Greenwood more of a likely candidate. Thanks for any info!

Thanks Joe, you are on it!!

Wish I could be there, looks like it will be a fantastic show!

Fixed anchors are a "trace" that is a bit different from other types of traces. Climbers are the only ones who will see these, and I sure as hell am happy to see/know about bolted chain stations rather than manky slung features. And no, Max, climbers aren't going to give up rappelling in the wilderness anytime soon. I think we need to figure out what is the better path, given that Forbidden is an immensely popular climb, and check the ideology at the door. The knee jerk response of NCNP is disappointing, to say the least.

Yeee Haw!! The B-C!!! Such a good tick to end the list on. The Beckey-Chouinard is on my "When I turn 40" list, which is coming up way too quickly. But, more importantly, does this mean that I've missed out on my chance to tie in with you Caleb??!! Say it ain't so!

Except, most of NCNP IS wilderness.

Did someone already include this link? http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7971664 Some pretty interesting info.

Thanks for the background Dan. I plan to contact Kelly and voice my support for establishing some bolted raps stations on Forbidden, not that it will probably matter. There have been one too many loose rock related accidents on the descent of Forbidden, and the popularity isn't going to wane anytime soon. And though your position may be confusing Darin, I think it is intelligent, and I tend to agree.

Yes, a perfect example of why blanket policies rarely apply everywhere intelligently. Are you contacting Kelly to get the straight scoop? I guess it wouldn't hurt to have multiple folks contacting them. Or, they could save us all the trouble and chime in here!

Luckily, the Ragged Edge is not in NCNP. The USFS doesn't have the manpower and zealotry to compete with the NPS, at least in the MBSNF. Personally, I think Forbidden is the perfect location for well placed bolted anchors. I've often thought that while descending the east ledges raps on somewhat junky stations, right next to perfect slabs of rock. A cleaner line too. I'm not as familiar with the late season descent next to the WR couloir, but I imagine that it is somewhat similar. That would be unfortunate if the recent accident was partially as a result of the bolt chopping. Does anyone have any more details on this??

I can see the genesis for a hard-man guidebook with this as the central theme for route selection. "Cascade Sphincter Select"?

Did someone say

I need all the aid I can get! I've thought about getting some of these for a while, I think I will now. Thanks!

Staring at this route over a couple days this summer, I'm impressed that folks still climb it. Frankly, it scared the hell out of me. It looks like Dan and Jesse climbed it in similar conditions to what we saw this July, maybe worse. Bold, and a wee bit lucky. That is an ascent that I'm sure you won't forget.

The shift in attitude at the federal offices that oversee public land is worrisome. I get the sense that most of the agencies would prefer to keep people on pavement, looking in. Easier to manage and they won't step on something "sensitive". Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but it seemed like the older attitude at the federal level was that parks and wilderness areas were set aside to be recreated in, not just looked at. I'm not for trashing the backcountry, but it seems like the pendulum is swinging pretty far away from helping encourage recreation. Sanitation problems aside, if folks can't tolerate bouldering and cragging areas with some erosion and social trails, we aren't far from being regulated out of existence.

Did I see that Dan and Sarah use those Ocun crack gloves?