JasonG

Ah, the modified "Ozzy" diet, first perfected by Aleister Crowley during his chalk period. I've been too much of a pansy to try and pluck a live chicken, but I've heard it gets results.

The Perfect Pass area IS the crash site, but it has been mostly cleaned up.

Cool! Nice to see pics from the Lemah snow finger way, sounds like a good trip. You know Chimney Rock is calling you next!

The title of this thread says it all. Sheesh.

I'll second the report to look a little closer at the beta for Doug's. If you nail it, it's class 2-3 the whole way, and pretty enjoyable, though longer than the CJ. J-Berg is no gimme, so congratulations are in order!

Sounds like a good story for a TR!

Correct, no permit from RS needed for day trip (you may need to fill out something for day use at the TH though, I forget). You don't need a rope in the central gully up or down if you are comfortable scrambling 3rd and short bits of 4th class. Can't speak for the glacier condition right now, but I know from a late September jaunt a few years ago that you will be walking over some pretty big cracks, even if they are covered. And yes, the SE ridge is WAY better than the gully. Think west ridge of North Twin Sister, at 9K, and surrounded by ice and exposure. It doesn't get much better, seriously.

seven hours car to car is fast for the Sulphide, assuming you rope up on the glacier. I would plan on 10-12. Although it goes at low-mid fifth, I would highly recommend the SE ridge finish to the summit pyramid.

Sloan should be in good shape as well.

Surprised I didn't see you guys mention the carnage on the Cascade River Road. That was some T-storm!

I've had this for about 6 months and taken it on some rough approaches and climbs. So far it seems to be holding up pretty well, with only minor scrapes and gouges. Overall, it is certainly the most comfortable helmet I've owned, but I do still wonder about the long term durability. Also, EPP foam has been around for a long time, so I wonder why it has taken this long to make a helmet out of it, and why only Petzl is doing it?? The hideous orange color choice (only one??) is curious as well, as I know of several partners who won't buy it, not matter how good it is.

Was this stuff in sight? It seems like keeping things in nondescript duffels, throwing a blanket over your gear, using the trunk, etc. is better than nothing. Most of these folks only break into a vehicle once they know that there is something valuable inside. Make it tough to know from outside the vehicle and your chances of getting broken into go down. But it is pretty hard/impossible to stop determined thieves. Insurance is probably the best thing. As far as post theft, what SS said.

Ah, such a classic! Isn't that NR bivy one of the best spots around? Thanks for those pictures, fantastic. But, I have to say that the moat picture really freaked me out! It looks like that finger is about to break at any moment. Is that on the way to the bivy notch? It seems like you normally can get onto the rock much lower and climber's right pretty easily. Is that not the case anymore?

Love that climb, sounds like you had a good day. Isn't that Argonaut instead of Sherpa on the right of the photo?

Good points, expectations often color our impressions of climbs. I guess I was never thinking that it was going to be something with super memorable pitches like the NR of Stuart or the NE ridge of Bugaboo spire. I can certainly understand your disappointment if you were!

You don't need a real heavy rock set up - you can do it with a 37m glacier rope (incld. rap(s)) and a few nuts and tri cams. Very short pitch with only a couple fifth class moves from what I remember. That said, a 60m half rope would allow you to not have to do as much down climbing shenanigans (and climb on a real rope), though I don't remember my wife complaining too much, so it can't be THAT bad. Much, much better than the scramble route and actually pretty good/fun climbing on solid rock. Such a classic outing, thanks for the TR!

So cool. I need to get a place in Bishop.

I wonder how many roads could have been fixed with the money used to facilitate the meetings? In all seriousness though, I thank folks for making my job easier by gathering a list of roads to advocate for. I plan to do a little more research and submit my comments via the web form. We'll see how this turns out, but it isn't looking great for access for my young boys and future grandkids. It's a shame.

Where's Kyle off to?

Hey ladies (and dudes)- You should take Tim up on this, he isn't even creepy! Good luck man, wish I could join you this week but work is calling.

So true- so very, very true.

This may just be my favorite part of the whole crazy story. GREAT writing- my toes went numb, thawed, and I got the screaming barfies, sitting here at my desk.

I've just skimmed this and it is one of the best TRs EVER. YeeeeeeeeeeeeHaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwww boys, way to git 'er dun! And, it warms my heart to see that Peter had such a good time before he "passed". When Ezra's older, I'll tell him where his Easter Bunny went.

Interesting study. I will forward to my wife, she was 4 months pregnant when we climbed Rainier a few years back. Our son seems OK, but I wish he'd stop asking so many questions sometimes .

Wow! We must have just missed you by a few days. Would have been pretty surreal to run into you and Donn on the Mustard!