obwan

Buckshot - you are on the right track; and ALL of the advice mentioned by tvashtarkatena ( I can't even pronounce that one), and others, is spot on. A tent does come in handy to get out of the sun, and refuge from the high winds that The Mountain can produce; (the wind seems to kick my butt the most, and sunscreen will save your climb/effort). I always recommend Mike Gauthier's book " Mount Rainier- A Climbing Guide" for the best information about what really goes on up there from a climbing ranger's viewpoint. I wish I had this book 20 years ago. Good Luck!

Amen! I have never seen a troll/thread with so much good advice! BTW - Cynthia from the Ho Chi Min Trail is hot!

I think after five pages, I have just come up with the answer of "why alpine starts". And it was your words - "choss pile": which is what The Mountain actually is -- a pile of loose rock and frozen snow. Therefore, if the rock fall later in the afternoon doesn't get you - then it will be the long slippery ride down (caused by clogged crampons). Stopping in a nearby glacier may not be as bad as the incredible acceleration one can achieve in a solo descent. sobo - I'm suprised that you don't know "Jack"!

Oops! Sorry - I got a little ahead of myself. Sobo - you came to mind when I saw a bumper sticker for you today. It said " I know Jack Shit".

Why? We've just hit 5 pages! Only 5 more and we can start talking about global warming... Oh, and Here goes - Don't plan on buying anymore crampons. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2017190166_apwashrinkingglaciers.html

It's the cover photo on Lyle Knight's book - "Central BC Rock", and has a good topo.

In '90/91 with only 3 bolts, being a mixed route, plus long and very hard it was thought to be a 12a or b. I know a route is a route, but some feel having the trad aspect on the route raises it a notch. Sometimes I even feel that on some routes that have been done thousands of times and worn smooth, they have become a grade harder than the original route - such as "Illusion Dweller" or "Solid Gold" in J.T. This thinking would probably be good bait for a debate - but it probably has more to do with me getting a little long in the tooth. Orgasmatron is a fun route to challenge one's self, have fun - it was a good find on your part using the old trail.

World Wall II was briefly mentioned in Bryan Burdo's "pamphlet" (1992) on Exit 32, it's above the new parking area as you described near a mossy vista. Orgasmatron at that time was 3 bolts and rated a 5.12b - so it has gone from a sport/trad mix to all bolts and would support a 5.11dish. I definitely would want a 70 meter.

Pretty sad way to start out the New Year - check out www.seattlepi.com for more info. Sounds like he's wounded another 4 people seriously before heading up to Longmire. If the SWAT teams don't get him - let's hope he suffers a slow death of hypothermia. Condolences to those families involved.

Very F--ing awesome, a good find! - This so-called wet and cold La Nina hasn't hit yet; so Monty is right about stuff showing up that is usually covered with snow.

This is hard to resist a two-cents worth comment - maybe it's the name !?; You must trust the force young Luke, and also the good advice that others have expressed. Kudos to sobo,Dru,choada etc. for their effort. Obviously we don't know your actual experience and background, but the average completion rate is 50% on Rainier. I'm not that sure if it's only the Guided trips or the Independents. The point I have to make is regarding conditioning and weather, and routing finding capabilities which all have a greater bearing than slogging up a boot path. Climbing Rainier solo is no BFD if all the planets and stars are properly aligned and in your favor - I mean you could even just do it in a day, hike up to Muir (eat, take a nap) and follow the headlamps and cattle drive to the top. In regard to the two questions that you simply wanted to know how to respond - I feel that they are appropriate, and they just want your answer either from a book or your possible vast experience. Doing anything solo is a great experience but should not burden others - it's a wonder this thread is not in Spray. Good luck in your adventures.

Correct, both lines are used and in the twin scenario they are both clipped into the same pro. But I have used them as single for easy alpine. That Mammut Serenity 8.9 is a good way to go for a "single" line - as noted, just watch the rappel. There are also 30m ropes to really save weight - such as the Edeweiss Discover 8x30m Super Dry.

You may have opened a can of worms, but to keep it simple - there are two very nice ropes. The Mammut Genesis 8.5x60 Superdry Half Rope (on sale $50 off); and the one I use is the PMI Verglas 8.1x60 Dry Half/Twin (it's rated to use either as a twin or single).

I fell and hit my head at JT and had a vision of a virgin - but it wouldn't even qualify as a mini epic.

Awesome find and good trip report! You might have a first ascent.

This is the funniest thread ever!

It looks like I'm going to have to give in and buy one of them climber crash pads. 8D

Oh for sure - Squak is just a small bump in Issaquah, not a mountain.

Lowell - Thank you for sharing this incredible find and collection of climbing in the Northwest!

Hello Tony - Good to hear you are still into it, we should get out sometime. I've been on the mend a couple of years, and now getting back into shape. As you know I have not been much of a gym rat - I can count on both hands how many times I've been to a gym in over 30 years, so I still have a few pulleys left. Give them a few days rest and some ice, along with Ibuprofin or Aleve, and of course a few beers. I've also used the Grip Master for strengthening the hand and individual fingers - just never very consistent. Leaving it in the car helped, waiting for traffic/lights. Tight taping on the bad ones helps a bit. Take Care.

I think Jens has the right answer.

Dane - You are a hero to bring this to the forefront, people should not hide or fear reality. You are the man! I've got three grandsons in the 9-12 year old range, and I try to teach them how to survive in this world - thanks again.

Google "French's Dome" - lots of info/sites.

Ditto! Mattp offers the best advice here - do not whine about the rain and mild lowland winters. The mountains are only an hour drive away and offer pretty much anything you want to do, except maybe "fantastic ice" (it's pretty elusive).

Wow! I love you man! Gracias.