-
Posts
445 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by obwan
-
Eric - I vote for Tieton, will you be camping out? The Vantage Trad is pretty sketchy, mostly bolted stuff. Hopefully one or both will be dry, have fun.
-
Good discussion - as I said above, lots of pros and cons. Probably the only good reason to rope up is to keep anyone from getting lost in a white-out.
-
This is the correct answer.
-
There are pro and cons to no-leash, waist or wrist. A lot of times it depends on the conditions and risk of losing the axe with several thousand feet to descend. I have tried both (you may want to practice the traverse/ switchback discussed above), I like the wrist better - just using a 3ft or so webbing strap with a not so tight loop. Then there is room to switch hands without any fumbling. One time on Adams, (waist) easy slope (icy)- I dropped my guard and slid pretty far on some icy stuff with the axe coming after me like a loose cannon. Blood on snow is not very pretty, almost gory.
-
That's a ditto - that hill is really a grunt, good for you! Next time wait for a clear blue sky for a nice 360 degree view. Probably just a knee strain - going down that thing is brutal. Ice and IB
-
C4 is the only way to go and is more "grippier" - if you want sensitivity, there are 2 thickness's in the C4 (thick and thin). I've put the thinner one on my Anasazi's, and they work great!
-
Here's the scoop on marking ropes - and one would assume that marking slings is ok as well. The short version is use only laundry (water based) markers, ie. Sharpie "rub-a-dub". Advises www.bluewaterropes.com - see FAQ's. Longer version from BD QC at https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-can-i-use-a-sharpie-to-mark-the-middle-of-my-rope
-
All good info - traction is the key. MSR's basically outclimb the others.
-
Get a copy of " West Coast Ice" by Don Serl.
-
Static Point Work Party 10.20.12 Saturday 10:00AM
obwan replied to David Yount's topic in Access Issues
Flail doesn't come close describing my skill, I mentioned I was just a hacker - when all else fails; then I use finesse. I was thinking this winter, I could use that saw for some ice sculptures and have you give me some lessons. -
[TR] Darrington - 2nd Comb Buttress - Psalms 61 10/8/2012
obwan replied to mountainsloth's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Awesome photos - I don't seem to find that cute of climbing partners, must be my rack. The trail whacker you need to get stoked on this one is David Young, we did miles of thrashing with him yesterday at Static. -
Static Point Work Party 10.20.12 Saturday 10:00AM
obwan replied to David Yount's topic in Access Issues
Dave - great report, I was not Frank - James; but as you say not much time for socializing or breaks. One had to keep working to stay warm - that's the wettest I've seen the woods in awhile, snow fall was timely and nice. You are an animal with that saw and sure enough don't get in front of it. I love your trailhead car! But the Sultan Bandit was there lurking, and had our arrival time down - very convenient. The MF'er got some trail booty - my chainsaw, that I left about a half mile in to get those alder logs you mentioned on the way out. It's common for trail workers to leave gear and stuff along the way, using as needed on the way out. I even made a special trip back in, looking for it in some pretty wet clothes - but no luck. I'm always trying to make lemonade out of lemons, so no BFD - all I can say is this dude trolls this website and does the Index/Static breakin's. The good news it may have kept him from bashing in my windows - and if he went another half mile would have found my pack. I could have done a better job of stashing the stuff - but figured no one would be crazy enough to be out there. It was 30 years old and on it's last legs, and maybe he got $20-30 bucks for it at the local Pawn Shop for drug money. All I can say is, he better keep looking over his shoulder - as next time it will be a sting operation, and there will be some ass kicking going on. This is probably the same dude that hit my windshield with a rock tossed from his vehicle as he drove toward me near Olney Rd a few years back. I might have to see if Santy Claus can fix me up with a new one next month. Other than that - I thought we done good! -
BillCoe: You are correct - it all gets down to boot specific, and unfortunately - one needs both if really doing all-season climbing. And the next challenge is finding a plastic that fits - and do not use them on the approach trail (snow and ice only). If one wanted an all-around boot then pick one that fits 90% of your adventures - and then if the temps drop, add the oldschool plastic bag for that one attempt.
-
Static Point Work Party 10.20.12 Saturday 10:00AM
obwan replied to David Yount's topic in Access Issues
Just a reminder - rain or shine, no experience needed. C'mon out anyway. If you don't have tools - I have an extra crosscut saw, loppers and a couple machetes. -
No pics = it didn't happen.... Wow! Sounds like one of my trips to J.T. where I stumbled across a very cool photo shoot = lingere,etc; and no camera. At least you have proof, but may go down on Voyeurism.
-
This time of year, Mazama is winding down - lots of good climbing and free places to camp. it's just a bit longer drive, ie. two hours from Leavenworth. And Tieton is an awesome place. There are various threads on this site regarding Vantage, pro and con. Listen to Ivan. If you absolutely feel the need - there is camping on the west side of the Columbia at Wanapum Dam State Park, or a commercial nice spot at the boat ramp area, just before crossing the Columbia off of I-90. Cheers! Better to have a few at Ocktoberfest.
-
Another couple of pints and I might even get this.
-
Lowell - Shows how old school we are, chain-link backstops are cool. I've used them for dry-tooling also, doesn't F up the tools as bad and one can use boots/crampons.
-
Index for sure!
-
G-Spotter is spot on - Squamish has some good lines to practice on. Or if you find a good bolt ladder such as Monkey Face Pioneer at Smith. Bolt ladders help in learning, as you don't have to worry about nut placements,etc. The key is to find a spot you'll tie up awhile, and not be pressured to get off the route. I learned from "Freedom of the Hills" and John Long - I think he covered it in a book, "Big Walls" in the "How to Climb" series. But why? John Long says it's 90% work and 10% fun, and you'll have to invest in a set of Etriers and many more biners( four aiders are not that essential). I made a pair with one inch tubular webbing. Why not just try some rope-soloing first.
-
What a bummer, and I was just thinking of heading over to Leavenworth. What ever happened to the famous "Exit 38 Bandit", aka - "The I-90 Car Prowler"?
-
Not free, but Google "Denny Creek CG".
-
Check Pm, maybe we can work something out.
-
There's a cool Entreprises climbing pillar and bouldering rock on East Hill in Kent, up by Lake Meridian. It's at the corner of 116th Ave SE and SE 240th St. It's been there about 4-5 years and is part of a skate board park called Arbor Heights Park 360. There's about a dozen routes in the 5.7-5.10+ range. Anyone have any beta on grades/topo? It's way better than the Renton Granite.
-
I held back on the Skaha story, with that crap all over my rope and hands. I was about to piss my pants, and the only folks not contaminated were these two Canadian chicks. After a lot of laughs - still no one would help.
