obwan

You are hard f--ing core, and definitely have earned the Cascade Hardman award of the week! You really toughed it out - Good job.

If you want a close in place to practice - check out the Mountaineer's Wall at Magnuson Park. It also offers some good anchors, to work on that procedure as well. www.examiner.com/article/the-mountaineers-climbing-wall-at-seattle-s-magnuson-park The Exit 32 - Li'l SI and Exit 38 area in North Bend, while mostly sport routes can also have a few cracks to mess around with.

It has to be cold for a couple weeks for ice to be in, skiing is probably your best bet. Check with the locals at 509-996-3194. www.ncmountainguides.com has the latest ski conditions.

As mentioned, the type of climbing you'll do will matter - but getting started, the package deals of six usually get the best price/sale. If you will mostly do sport climbs with straight up routes, then six short ones will do, and if you mix it up with some trad then the medium/longer ones help reduce the rope drag. It also helps in alpine/trad to have a bunch of slings and some extra biners, as the routes wander and it helps keep the rope drag down. There is some good beta and all of the pro's & cons (a book) on the REI website: www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/quickdraws-slings-webbing.html As said before don't buy to many to start as your preferences will change, everyone has their own idea which develops in time.

Water - You funny!

Newman55 - Good information and lots of ways to go. Kudos to Bob Loomis - he hit the nail on the head, so to speak. It's like a lot of sports, as you increase your level of experience and type of climbing, one needs to get shoe specific (unfortunately). Speaking of junkyards, one of my buddies learned Ice climbing using old "MSR's" and a REI Mtn Axe in the Army Mountain Rangers in Alaska - all sharpened of course. Looking ahead - don't buy too many crampons with all of this global warming and shrinking glaciers.

A stiff boot says it all!

I agree - it may take a few years before you would find the need to go with mono points. Lots of good info in Craig Luebben's book 'How to Ice Climb'.

With all the heavy dumps, I would say the avalanche issues would be high on the mixed routes until there has been some time for them to consolidate. Check up on the latest avalanche conditions and temps.

tvashtarkatena ( I still can't pronounce this): You are correct - let this go, the punishment does not fit the crime. I will admit that most of the advice presented is good - but for now, his ass is alive - and maybe not worth all of this spray. He did what he had to with the cards he was dealt - and the climbing world is not a perfect place. I've been in whiteouts on the Muir Snowfield and sure enough if you don't have a plan, then shit happens.

It will have some patches of wind blown ice and very hard - keep the crampons sharp. A sunny day in early January with no storm activity would be awesome!

Eric - I vote for Tieton, will you be camping out? The Vantage Trad is pretty sketchy, mostly bolted stuff. Hopefully one or both will be dry, have fun.

Good discussion - as I said above, lots of pros and cons. Probably the only good reason to rope up is to keep anyone from getting lost in a white-out.

This is the correct answer.

There are pro and cons to no-leash, waist or wrist. A lot of times it depends on the conditions and risk of losing the axe with several thousand feet to descend. I have tried both (you may want to practice the traverse/ switchback discussed above), I like the wrist better - just using a 3ft or so webbing strap with a not so tight loop. Then there is room to switch hands without any fumbling. One time on Adams, (waist) easy slope (icy)- I dropped my guard and slid pretty far on some icy stuff with the axe coming after me like a loose cannon. Blood on snow is not very pretty, almost gory.

That's a ditto - that hill is really a grunt, good for you! Next time wait for a clear blue sky for a nice 360 degree view. Probably just a knee strain - going down that thing is brutal. Ice and IB

C4 is the only way to go and is more "grippier" - if you want sensitivity, there are 2 thickness's in the C4 (thick and thin). I've put the thinner one on my Anasazi's, and they work great!

Here's the scoop on marking ropes - and one would assume that marking slings is ok as well. The short version is use only laundry (water based) markers, ie. Sharpie "rub-a-dub". Advises www.bluewaterropes.com - see FAQ's. Longer version from BD QC at https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-can-i-use-a-sharpie-to-mark-the-middle-of-my-rope

All good info - traction is the key. MSR's basically outclimb the others.

Get a copy of " West Coast Ice" by Don Serl.

Flail doesn't come close describing my skill, I mentioned I was just a hacker - when all else fails; then I use finesse. I was thinking this winter, I could use that saw for some ice sculptures and have you give me some lessons.

Awesome photos - I don't seem to find that cute of climbing partners, must be my rack. The trail whacker you need to get stoked on this one is David Young, we did miles of thrashing with him yesterday at Static.

Dave - great report, I was not Frank - James; but as you say not much time for socializing or breaks. One had to keep working to stay warm - that's the wettest I've seen the woods in awhile, snow fall was timely and nice. You are an animal with that saw and sure enough don't get in front of it. I love your trailhead car! But the Sultan Bandit was there lurking, and had our arrival time down - very convenient. The MF'er got some trail booty - my chainsaw, that I left about a half mile in to get those alder logs you mentioned on the way out. It's common for trail workers to leave gear and stuff along the way, using as needed on the way out. I even made a special trip back in, looking for it in some pretty wet clothes - but no luck. I'm always trying to make lemonade out of lemons, so no BFD - all I can say is this dude trolls this website and does the Index/Static breakin's. The good news it may have kept him from bashing in my windows - and if he went another half mile would have found my pack. I could have done a better job of stashing the stuff - but figured no one would be crazy enough to be out there. It was 30 years old and on it's last legs, and maybe he got $20-30 bucks for it at the local Pawn Shop for drug money. All I can say is, he better keep looking over his shoulder - as next time it will be a sting operation, and there will be some ass kicking going on. This is probably the same dude that hit my windshield with a rock tossed from his vehicle as he drove toward me near Olney Rd a few years back. I might have to see if Santy Claus can fix me up with a new one next month. Other than that - I thought we done good!

BillCoe: You are correct - it all gets down to boot specific, and unfortunately - one needs both if really doing all-season climbing. And the next challenge is finding a plastic that fits - and do not use them on the approach trail (snow and ice only). If one wanted an all-around boot then pick one that fits 90% of your adventures - and then if the temps drop, add the oldschool plastic bag for that one attempt.

Just a reminder - rain or shine, no experience needed. C'mon out anyway. If you don't have tools - I have an extra crosscut saw, loppers and a couple machetes.