obwan

Good job - and thanks for the hard work. I love Squamish.

Nice job and a good trip report!

The annual freezing and expansion has always created unnerving rock fall at Index, especially at The Country, bummer.

God Bless.

As mentioned, weather is the main factor. Obviously this time of year there is no snow (so it's just a walk up), but if it's socked in forget it. The pillars you mentioned are maybe reference to wood posts along the ridge line.

Thanks Matt and everyone who made this happen - Rock On!

Now - we have seen it all.

Even the topo in Burdo's old book "North Cascades Rock" does not match exactly. If you started at a low belayer's bolt to the right of the tree, you were on the route - then after 5-6 bolts you are at about 90ft, not quite the anchor chains. If you start out again from there it's about ten bolts to the next anchor, basically the top of pitch 2 on the topo's. Above that there is a short/small roofy area between pitch 3 and 4. You are right about the topo's lacking - I hope they are good for "Prime Rib" as I'd like to get that one done someday. p.s. I have never seen a detached block - it's probably gone

Sounds to me like you were on the Inspiration Route, as it starts to the right of the lone pine tree. The grades you describe also fit the route - it goes up and gets steeper (about five pitches total as I remember).

One of the big draws to the sport is that it is free, whereas skydiving can get quite expensive with lift fees, and approved areas for clearance and jumping. You don't just go get a buddy with a plane either, as there are rules and waivers needed for jumping out of a perfectly good airplane. With basejumps though, there is little room for errors; whereas in skydiving you have a little more room to salvage an epic jump. But, as in climbing also - it's not the fall that kills you, it's that sudden stop.

I used to sky dive in my younger years and would think that a high skill level of maybe a thousand jumps or more would be necessary before taking on base jumping. The crazy French/Europeans are a bit ahead of the U.S., especially in the wing-suit phenomenon. But as you can see on www.basejump.com that many newbies want to do it - and you all think we have a bit of spray on our website.

All of the above advice is good - another consideration is the experience level of the climbers. They should be told precisely how to clean and lower or rap, whichever. I had to witness some newbies at Vantage once and it was scary. The mentor on the ground sent up a newbie to "clean" the anchor, and said we'll lower you. When the climber got up to the anchor, she unclipped the rope from both draws without clipping in to the anchor - and said " now what do I do?" And a few years a go a climber at Smith went up and put the rope through the webbing and said ok - lower me, it sawwed through and down she went.

Check out " Washington Rock Climbing" by Jeff Smoot; or to save dinero, just show up at the "Fun Rock" area 1.5 mile west of downtown Mazama. Anyone there would have a guide book - all single pitch.

That is correct!

Matt: I agree with most of the advice above - they are not trying to scare you, but good survival skills on a glacier are very necessary. Just to get a feel for the mountain, and see all the folks coming and going from Camp Muir - try the Muir hike up to 10,000ft a couple of times with a 40lb pack. A few trips for fitness training, boots/clothing, navigation and some exposure to glaciers would be a good way to assess your feel for the mountain. Trust me Luke - James

Hey Dan: I think I fit the elderly category - but actually have been in a recovery mode also. So some summer cragging with short approaches might be just what the doctor ordered. I'll keep in touch, also available mid-week. James

Bummer - I dread the downtime of healing and rehab, hang in there.

Age is all in your mind - if you still want to climb, just do it! Born in the Northwest - I always looked out at Mt. Rainier, and said by the time I'm 35 I'd better climb it as I'll be to old. In those days 40 was over the hill, but not nowadays. I climbed it at 35, then at 46 with my two son's, and then was the 'lead' in 1998 at 57. I'm still into rock and ice at 67 (maybe a little beat up from the high mileage) - with Beckey as my idol. As I said just do it!

I use a PMI Verglas 8.1mm Dry Half/Twin that can be used both as a single or paired. According to Hoyle, there is a determination that a rope marked with a 1/2 at the end tape can only be used as 'paired', rather than singly. Refer to - http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=8&type=gearguy So, there seems to be different specs for the 'Twin' vs. 'Half'.

I have used GPS for over 15 years in the field and actually developed and taught how to navigate with one. It is not a no brainer device - navigation skills with map and compass are essential to get the full use out of them. It has saved my ass a couple of times, but as noted - use Lithium batteries and have spares along, with a compass and map as backup. It does take some time to gain confidence (that's what's scary) if it has maps installed - so one should practice a LOT on low-commitment hikes. Then when the panic sets in you are confident it will work for you. Unfortunately, they are not an "out of the box and go" toy - but it looks like the "road/driving" models are not either. It still takes some good common sense and then it's a great tool. As far as accuracy - most all military units are using the hand held citizen models now in favor of the old ShoeBox size jeep version. In fact Garmin has the 'Jumpmaster' feature in some of their models, that has a disclaimer to not use for 'Skydiving' - Duh!

I am the king of layback. http://www.layback-hamburg.de/ And one must use tape at JT.

Great photos and current condition reports, it's difficult holding back - Washington ice is so elusive one can get into some pretty thin stuff this early. You just have to be ready to strike when it's ready - climb safe.

I used the Shrike with an OK? adze, and it is not changeable unless you cut it off so left it alone. But with my Rage, I took the big adze off, and tossed it pretty far after it wacked my helmet when the pick bounced off some bullet proof ice. I never used it anyhow, and the two hammer Rage tools now swing equally; and the hammers come in highly useful on mixed routes in those finger to hand size cracks.

Jens - Ditto, we saw those guys in the parking lot at the end of their adventure. A decent job and well done considering the early conditions - I mean it is not actually winter yet, it needs more snow and lower temps. (should maybe move to "Alpine Lakes TR"). They are hardcore dudes.

Truly an incredible artistic talent! God Bless.