obwan

Looks like you guys have figured it out - it's just something you have to mess with, if you can find an isolated backstop it helps reduce the wuffo's. And certainly keeps you out of any busy climbing routes. You can heave the rope over the top of the backstop and tie it off somewhere, and then rope solo up using prusik or grigri. If you want to simulate a "real" lead, building the anchor at the bottom, then useing a soloist device would be needed - but more expensive, just to get the mechanics worked out.

Sent P.M.

BD makes the best one at 265cm, for $50. I made a one out of tent poles once being cheap, and it wasn't that less expensive. (doesn't work that well either). The main issue is you need one that works, it's a good lifetime investment.

Definitely the 4th edition is the one - the earlier ones will get you started for less pesos.

I saw them on amazon.com for $50 - well worth it.

Go for a nice safe climb up Baker with the Bellingham AAI guides, it's a nice Volcano and your wife should have no worries. For the Denali goal, you'll have to stick with the harder routes on Rainier. You will need lots of altitude exposure training.

At sea level, hell has to freeze over first.

Grassrocket - Thanks for the great TR, just about the conditions that I expected.

Frozen lake ice is fine for messing around with abalakov thread, but doesn't give a true perspective on your stance and rope setup. The advice stated above is all top notch, ie; it's not used much in washington where you have trees - but it is definitely a skill to understand; in case you have to bail. Sometimes you can find vertical neve like at snow caves to play around on - but as mentioned there is plenty to work with at Lillooet. Good luck in your adventures.

You must be a dinosaur like me - I have an old wooden piolet that hangs in the garage with that type of leash. You can google ice axe leashes and really get confused - if you make a homemade one, just tie it in under neath the axe head and make it about the length of the axe.

medicsandy: Well said - in climbing, the partners always need to be on the same page, and all the cards played face up. And listen to Monty - his advice has been the best.

+1

The Queen Anne Counterbalance is a hill close to Ballard, also check out Golden Gardens. Also close to Ballard is Discovery Park in the Magnolia area. The I-90 corridor from North Bend to the Pass has a ton of good elevation trails - but would be more like 6-7 hours door-to-door.

The cliffs at Fun Rock one mile east of the Mazama store on Lost River Rd. are top ropeable and obviously could be used for dry tooling. I think the store has a route guide to peek at.

You are hard f--ing core, and definitely have earned the Cascade Hardman award of the week! You really toughed it out - Good job.

If you want a close in place to practice - check out the Mountaineer's Wall at Magnuson Park. It also offers some good anchors, to work on that procedure as well. www.examiner.com/article/the-mountaineers-climbing-wall-at-seattle-s-magnuson-park The Exit 32 - Li'l SI and Exit 38 area in North Bend, while mostly sport routes can also have a few cracks to mess around with.

It has to be cold for a couple weeks for ice to be in, skiing is probably your best bet. Check with the locals at 509-996-3194. www.ncmountainguides.com has the latest ski conditions.

As mentioned, the type of climbing you'll do will matter - but getting started, the package deals of six usually get the best price/sale. If you will mostly do sport climbs with straight up routes, then six short ones will do, and if you mix it up with some trad then the medium/longer ones help reduce the rope drag. It also helps in alpine/trad to have a bunch of slings and some extra biners, as the routes wander and it helps keep the rope drag down. There is some good beta and all of the pro's & cons (a book) on the REI website: www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/quickdraws-slings-webbing.html As said before don't buy to many to start as your preferences will change, everyone has their own idea which develops in time.

Water - You funny!

Newman55 - Good information and lots of ways to go. Kudos to Bob Loomis - he hit the nail on the head, so to speak. It's like a lot of sports, as you increase your level of experience and type of climbing, one needs to get shoe specific (unfortunately). Speaking of junkyards, one of my buddies learned Ice climbing using old "MSR's" and a REI Mtn Axe in the Army Mountain Rangers in Alaska - all sharpened of course. Looking ahead - don't buy too many crampons with all of this global warming and shrinking glaciers.

A stiff boot says it all!

I agree - it may take a few years before you would find the need to go with mono points. Lots of good info in Craig Luebben's book 'How to Ice Climb'.

With all the heavy dumps, I would say the avalanche issues would be high on the mixed routes until there has been some time for them to consolidate. Check up on the latest avalanche conditions and temps.

tvashtarkatena ( I still can't pronounce this): You are correct - let this go, the punishment does not fit the crime. I will admit that most of the advice presented is good - but for now, his ass is alive - and maybe not worth all of this spray. He did what he had to with the cards he was dealt - and the climbing world is not a perfect place. I've been in whiteouts on the Muir Snowfield and sure enough if you don't have a plan, then shit happens.

It will have some patches of wind blown ice and very hard - keep the crampons sharp. A sunny day in early January with no storm activity would be awesome!