obwan

I have done the same, camping at Longmire - but the problem is , they don't open the gate to the Paradise Rd. until 9am?? or so. So the next time I camped on the snow field a mile in - no problem, except when it was pissin' rain upon waking and when I drove down to go get a real breakfast and hot coffee, the gate was closed - and got a lecture about staying up there and trying to get down early. So, the car nap may work - and I don't think it's an issue if you are not climbing above 10,000 ft; of course not my call. Give the Park a call and see what is acceptable.

Cool! At least it's better than Ivory soap.

Thanks for the tip - yes, it's $8 but no longer made by McNett ( probably low sales). McNett did pass along two sites that still have some: tenttrails.com and sheepleg.com I hate it when shipping is more than the product as in the case of moosejaw.com

What is the latest trend on washing ropes? I used to see a dry treatment wash in the past, but searching the web - I only find " Nikwax Rope Proof", and spendy $25. It basically is added to a clean rope to restore waterproofing. Has anyone used this product or have a better solution (no pun intended)?

Wow, really? I mean, MSR sells it as a fully featured 4-season expedition tent, and now you've got me looking at my Stardome in the closet (what it was sold as under Moss) and questioning its utility. Really gotta get my other 4-season tent in for repairs then. Sorry - looks like something got left out of my post. I meant to say that "here's a couple of 3/4 season tents that may do well". It's all in the guying down and snow bag anchors as mentioned. Moss tents were bomber.

At 41oz, this is considered a one season tent for light weight trail hiking - even the typical 3 season tent would be better for Rainier in July. If you want to go light- save your money and buy a bivy sack as mentioned above. tvashtarkenta says they blow away while up on the climb - I've seen that happen, when you return from the climb and everything is gone, it's pretty disturbing. I also awoke one night with lots of yelling and screaming going on - a guy got up to go pee and his girl friend in the flimsy tent was blown down the slippery slope toward a crevasse. Luckily someone tackled the tent and girl inside - not a good night, not to mention a ruined trip. In high winds of 50-60 mph, they need to be bomb proof.

Matt is correct. most light wt 3 season tents do not do well - mostly due to high winds, they will be shredded or flatened. Those that survive have been guy lined and anchored down well, with snow wall protection. Basically the main difference in 3 season vs 3-4 is the added pole structure and less mesh. Of course the extra poles add 1-1.5 lbs but may be worth it, as I have seen several tents go on Rainier. Some examples are the 3-4 season REI Arete ASL and MSR Fury. It's when you go to a full 4 season tent the cost is higher and the extra weight.

Dear PeakBeggar: Thanks for the honest and interesting trip report - Banff has been in my future for too long, I am inspired. I know what it's like when going to a new place without being with someone who's been there before. Good Job!

Montypiton - excellent report! Not good conditions - but a good report, thanks for the update.

He's not kidding or sandbaggin' you - see montypiton's latest post in the 'Ice Climbing Forum'. Sometimes Floridians think Washington State is in the frozen north, but alas - climbable ice is very elusive here.

Looks like you guys have figured it out - it's just something you have to mess with, if you can find an isolated backstop it helps reduce the wuffo's. And certainly keeps you out of any busy climbing routes. You can heave the rope over the top of the backstop and tie it off somewhere, and then rope solo up using prusik or grigri. If you want to simulate a "real" lead, building the anchor at the bottom, then useing a soloist device would be needed - but more expensive, just to get the mechanics worked out.

Sent P.M.

BD makes the best one at 265cm, for $50. I made a one out of tent poles once being cheap, and it wasn't that less expensive. (doesn't work that well either). The main issue is you need one that works, it's a good lifetime investment.

Definitely the 4th edition is the one - the earlier ones will get you started for less pesos.

I saw them on amazon.com for $50 - well worth it.

Go for a nice safe climb up Baker with the Bellingham AAI guides, it's a nice Volcano and your wife should have no worries. For the Denali goal, you'll have to stick with the harder routes on Rainier. You will need lots of altitude exposure training.

What works well for kids when they are small - is a snug fitting pair of beach or pool shoes, with a stiff rubber sole.

At sea level, hell has to freeze over first.

Grassrocket - Thanks for the great TR, just about the conditions that I expected.

Frozen lake ice is fine for messing around with abalakov thread, but doesn't give a true perspective on your stance and rope setup. The advice stated above is all top notch, ie; it's not used much in washington where you have trees - but it is definitely a skill to understand; in case you have to bail. Sometimes you can find vertical neve like at snow caves to play around on - but as mentioned there is plenty to work with at Lillooet. Good luck in your adventures.

You must be a dinosaur like me - I have an old wooden piolet that hangs in the garage with that type of leash. You can google ice axe leashes and really get confused - if you make a homemade one, just tie it in under neath the axe head and make it about the length of the axe.

medicsandy: Well said - in climbing, the partners always need to be on the same page, and all the cards played face up. And listen to Monty - his advice has been the best.

+1

The Queen Anne Counterbalance is a hill close to Ballard, also check out Golden Gardens. Also close to Ballard is Discovery Park in the Magnolia area. The I-90 corridor from North Bend to the Pass has a ton of good elevation trails - but would be more like 6-7 hours door-to-door.

The cliffs at Fun Rock one mile east of the Mazama store on Lost River Rd. are top ropeable and obviously could be used for dry tooling. I think the store has a route guide to peek at.