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obwan

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Everything posted by obwan

  1. What everyone says is true and it's the same for Spring break week in March. Don't be shy about talking and sharing campsites with others, it works.
  2. Take a look at http://joshuatree.org - they have camping in the park, saves a lot of commute time, and gives more time to climb as you can walk to a some of the climbs. The central CG is Hidden Valley CG where most of the climbers hangout. Google the towns Joshua Tree, CA and Twentynine Palms, CA - they are near by and have some motel 6's. One of the climbing shops at the entrance road has good showers - take water into the park, they have toilets but no water.
  3. Ditto on all of the above. I'd stick with early July to early Sept - mainly for the longer days/daylight.
  4. I'd look into the 30 second cleaner at Lowe's or Home Depot - It worked on my concrete patio and really took off the scum. http://www.30seconds.net/
  5. As you say, they are pretty territorial and stay warm in the winter with a double coat of wool - almost tame, and can climb 5.12.
  6. My first time up there , the mountain goats showed me the way down. Honest! baa
  7. Josh - This may be my last read of your blog, and not to be negative about your goals/dreams: but please pay attention to all of the above advice, and listen to aussie69! He is right - while it is a majestic draw, there are better places to climb and enjoy the mountains. It is a choss pile of frozen snow/ice and loose rock - and getting ready to blow any time. You have been to Muir, that's good enough for most folks who like to be in a cattle drive and to enjoy it's splendor.
  8. After going to get a Henry's, I had to look up 'tangential'. It appears that we have spent to much time in front of the PC and need to get out climbin'. I was known to take the 18 year olds to B.C. for climbing and suds.
  9. Josh - Look how many mentors are willing to advise you. This thread is getting to be hilarious, only topped in numbers by "Comments on Aliens" and "Cover your Bean" in recent months. Good Luck in your adventures.
  10. Ponderosa - well said! It' time to slow down and live, grasshopper - those mountains aren't going anywhere. ps. Try using grocery store plastic bags over your socks to keep the feet warm in leather boots.
  11. This thread is definitely not PG 13. Was that a modified BD Tool?
  12. Dru - What an incredible and thoughtful response! First he needs to learn how to spell technical, and then go burn off some of that testosterone with some babe.
  13. Jens - I agree, apparently one has to experience the sharp crystals of the quartz monzonite of JT to appreciate the use of tape.
  14. This is very Cool! Thanks for the report - it is really a landmark move that most folks would not understand. Even though I am a 206er I climbed at Dishman years ago, and knew some friends in Mica - a very nice area. Cheers & Beers!
  15. Metolius does Rock! I owe my life to both the TCU #2 and 4cam #5! But the originals are called "smoothies" (no ridges), worse is the lack of the inversion aspect (lock tab); they will tweak out. So, it's time to replace them and give those guys some more business - my old smoothies tag along on some routes for "leaver" cams. God bless those who think it is good booty.
  16. I think, because if you look at it from the left side such as in the far left route with rappel bolts - It looks like a Lightning Strike.
  17. By far, the best beta on Guye that I have ever seen - good trip report!
  18. obwan

    Take!

    A-Ha, so it's a Euro term.
  19. obwan

    Take!

    That's usually what I use instead of 'Falling'.
  20. obwan

    Take!

    I used to say "keep me tight" - but the rock chicks thought I was a DOM.
  21. obwan

    Take!

    Yoda is cool! So, It appears it came about while clipping bolts - I thought it might be a sporto term.
  22. obwan

    Take!

    I'm going to stick my neck out on this one - being fairly old school ( tech rock 20years ); I think it came from the gym jocks around year 2000. I do not use it, as the people I have taught and mentored through these past years find terms like "tension" or even "tight rope" much easier to understand, unless they have been at the gym a lot. It definitely is not in John Long's book (our only bible along with 'Freedom of the Hills'). Basically you just need to communicate with your belayer as to what signals you are used to at the start of the climb, so there is no confusion. It may even have been started to eliminate confusion - this will probably end up in the 'Spray" columns, as there will be as many opinions as there are in 'bolting'. You have no doubt opened up a can of worms.
  23. See the above thread on "Infinite Bliss".
  24. Check out the July 2009 issue of Consumer Reports - they rated all of the latest point-n-shoot cameras.
  25. Great trip report! You all used GOOD judgement, don't trust a big fall on those rusty spinners - nice photos and nice haircut! Just think you are alive to tell about it.
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