obwan

Matt: I agree with most of the advice above - they are not trying to scare you, but good survival skills on a glacier are very necessary. Just to get a feel for the mountain, and see all the folks coming and going from Camp Muir - try the Muir hike up to 10,000ft a couple of times with a 40lb pack. A few trips for fitness training, boots/clothing, navigation and some exposure to glaciers would be a good way to assess your feel for the mountain. Trust me Luke - James

Hey Dan: I think I fit the elderly category - but actually have been in a recovery mode also. So some summer cragging with short approaches might be just what the doctor ordered. I'll keep in touch, also available mid-week. James

Bummer - I dread the downtime of healing and rehab, hang in there.

Age is all in your mind - if you still want to climb, just do it! Born in the Northwest - I always looked out at Mt. Rainier, and said by the time I'm 35 I'd better climb it as I'll be to old. In those days 40 was over the hill, but not nowadays. I climbed it at 35, then at 46 with my two son's, and then was the 'lead' in 1998 at 57. I'm still into rock and ice at 67 (maybe a little beat up from the high mileage) - with Beckey as my idol. As I said just do it!

I use a PMI Verglas 8.1mm Dry Half/Twin that can be used both as a single or paired. According to Hoyle, there is a determination that a rope marked with a 1/2 at the end tape can only be used as 'paired', rather than singly. Refer to - http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=8&type=gearguy So, there seems to be different specs for the 'Twin' vs. 'Half'.

I have used GPS for over 15 years in the field and actually developed and taught how to navigate with one. It is not a no brainer device - navigation skills with map and compass are essential to get the full use out of them. It has saved my ass a couple of times, but as noted - use Lithium batteries and have spares along, with a compass and map as backup. It does take some time to gain confidence (that's what's scary) if it has maps installed - so one should practice a LOT on low-commitment hikes. Then when the panic sets in you are confident it will work for you. Unfortunately, they are not an "out of the box and go" toy - but it looks like the "road/driving" models are not either. It still takes some good common sense and then it's a great tool. As far as accuracy - most all military units are using the hand held citizen models now in favor of the old ShoeBox size jeep version. In fact Garmin has the 'Jumpmaster' feature in some of their models, that has a disclaimer to not use for 'Skydiving' - Duh!

I am the king of layback. http://www.layback-hamburg.de/ And one must use tape at JT.

Great photos and current condition reports, it's difficult holding back - Washington ice is so elusive one can get into some pretty thin stuff this early. You just have to be ready to strike when it's ready - climb safe.

I used the Shrike with an OK? adze, and it is not changeable unless you cut it off so left it alone. But with my Rage, I took the big adze off, and tossed it pretty far after it wacked my helmet when the pick bounced off some bullet proof ice. I never used it anyhow, and the two hammer Rage tools now swing equally; and the hammers come in highly useful on mixed routes in those finger to hand size cracks.

Jens - Ditto, we saw those guys in the parking lot at the end of their adventure. A decent job and well done considering the early conditions - I mean it is not actually winter yet, it needs more snow and lower temps. (should maybe move to "Alpine Lakes TR"). They are hardcore dudes.

Truly an incredible artistic talent! God Bless.

What everyone says is true and it's the same for Spring break week in March. Don't be shy about talking and sharing campsites with others, it works.

Take a look at http://joshuatree.org - they have camping in the park, saves a lot of commute time, and gives more time to climb as you can walk to a some of the climbs. The central CG is Hidden Valley CG where most of the climbers hangout. Google the towns Joshua Tree, CA and Twentynine Palms, CA - they are near by and have some motel 6's. One of the climbing shops at the entrance road has good showers - take water into the park, they have toilets but no water.

Ditto on all of the above. I'd stick with early July to early Sept - mainly for the longer days/daylight.

I'd look into the 30 second cleaner at Lowe's or Home Depot - It worked on my concrete patio and really took off the scum. http://www.30seconds.net/

As you say, they are pretty territorial and stay warm in the winter with a double coat of wool - almost tame, and can climb 5.12.

My first time up there , the mountain goats showed me the way down. Honest! baa

Josh - This may be my last read of your blog, and not to be negative about your goals/dreams: but please pay attention to all of the above advice, and listen to aussie69! He is right - while it is a majestic draw, there are better places to climb and enjoy the mountains. It is a choss pile of frozen snow/ice and loose rock - and getting ready to blow any time. You have been to Muir, that's good enough for most folks who like to be in a cattle drive and to enjoy it's splendor.

After going to get a Henry's, I had to look up 'tangential'. It appears that we have spent to much time in front of the PC and need to get out climbin'. I was known to take the 18 year olds to B.C. for climbing and suds.

Josh - Look how many mentors are willing to advise you. This thread is getting to be hilarious, only topped in numbers by "Comments on Aliens" and "Cover your Bean" in recent months. Good Luck in your adventures.

Ponderosa - well said! It' time to slow down and live, grasshopper - those mountains aren't going anywhere. ps. Try using grocery store plastic bags over your socks to keep the feet warm in leather boots.

This thread is definitely not PG 13. Was that a modified BD Tool?

Dru - What an incredible and thoughtful response! First he needs to learn how to spell technical, and then go burn off some of that testosterone with some babe.

Jens - I agree, apparently one has to experience the sharp crystals of the quartz monzonite of JT to appreciate the use of tape.

This is very Cool! Thanks for the report - it is really a landmark move that most folks would not understand. Even though I am a 206er I climbed at Dishman years ago, and knew some friends in Mica - a very nice area. Cheers & Beers!