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Everything posted by obwan
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The best information I have seen is in Mike Gauthier's book "Climbing Rainier" (he's been the head climbing ranger in the past) - I'm sure you'll find it on Amazon.com. I wish I had all of his input years ago - he tells it like it really is, and he covers some fitness issues.
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This is a very thoughtful and hilarious post, we do need to lighten up.
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OMG - The Exit 38 Bandit?? Sorry, had to beat Dru.
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More of the same - only it sounds permanent now.
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Climbing desert basalt can be sketchy in the early Spring after all the Winter freezing, and then the thaw. It's been said before at Vantage, if you like the jugs holds so well - you even get to take one home now and then. Regarding Trad falls there - Tony B. just reminded me of one he calls a 45 ft whipper. Lucky for me I had an experienced belayer, I peeled on Pat's Crack (not a difficult climb) as I was trying to get my hand in the crack, and jiggled the rope which caused the piece to walk out. I was about 65-70 feet up and about 15-20feet above my last pro - a Metolius #5, four cam unit (black); and it held. The total fall was then a 40-45footer - one called a "screamer" as the free fall is long enough to cause a scream. Being light wt (120lbs) and a new rope sure helped , also the Fall factor was low, say about.4 or.5 - not one to brag about.
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Hey Tony, good to hear you are still alive and well! Yeah, that was from the top of Pat's Crack when the pro walked out as I jiggled the rope out of the crack, and took that "screamer" on your brand new rope. All the planets were aligned for me that day, the celebration of life and the hang-over the next day were like a mini-epic. I just got back from my annual March trip to JT, and was there a few days after Woody Stark (67yr. my age also)- the Godfather of JT and pioneer of many climbs there. The Park & media got the story all wrong - It was a lowering screw up from the top of The Great Burrito rock formation and he fell 100ft, his buddy survived with a couple broken ribs. Thanks again for the memories. James
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If you only have one day - it is best to have a guide, otherwise you'll just spend all day wandering around. With 5,000 climbs it takes a few trips to get oriented, the Trad Book mentioned is good. Check with the climbing shop "Nomad Ventures" in the town of Joshua Tree at 760-366-4684 and they can hook you up.
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If anyone is at JT 3/23-3/26 - Look me up in the main CG, a Kia Rondo (charcoal) with Wash. plates; and we'll do some climbing.
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Whatever happened to those EB Ford Explorers - probably in the same boneyard as the Edsel.
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I believe that during WWII that EB made Down sleeping bags and jackets for high altitude flyers, but don't quote me on that.
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Hey Josh: That was a fun outing at Lil' SI. I've been looking at weather.com for some nice areas during the coming week, and I'd like to get in one more climb day before heading south. The only good day looks like Vantage on Thursday - If we met at the Issaquah P&R at 7am we could be climbing by 9:30am (maybe a little cold) but dry, (high 44, low28). I've checked North Bend, Leavenworth and Index and they are all Rain! If you are a go, let me know and the climb day would be 9:30-4pm and get back to Issy by 6:30pm. I can drive and maybe donate $20 for gas and it's a go! Cheers, O'B this was supposed to be a pm.
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Jens, you are the consummate Cascade Hardman - thanks for putting up with an old fart. That was a good day at World Wall and some nice leading, pretty impressive.
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I was thinking of the TOPO that Lowell shows in post #865282 with the wall (red arrow), and the view (yellow arrow) toward Red. I didn't go that far up in the valley to see for sure. But was wondering if the rock there would be consistent with the old photos. I'm thinking that Wolf's memory is pretty good about it being Lundin.
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I'm not a geologist - does Lundin consist of metavolcanic rock? The background in the last two photos in Lowell's post #864779 almost looks like some of that terrain around Red Mtn and Lundin. Wolf may be right. I snowshoed into Red Mtn yesterday, and no camera - duh. A very nice day in CWB.
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A good mystery it was - what, no colored lines? Good work tweaking the definition in the photo - looks like you have the right area, now we just need a close up with those 90 degree blocks. Some of this thread has kept the Pass area alive, due to the type of rock. Good job!
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Good work Klenke - I knew someone would have a good photo, I take back the comment about rock quality. You have some great photos of the area. It even has a ramp to the left for the photographer mentioned earlier about a level shot. The 100% clincher view would obviously be right up there at the base. j_b - I think I meant to say "those guys were hardcore" (I'm probably older than you are); that traverse looks pretty hairy and like their sketchy belay, I guess it's ok as long as you don't fall on it.
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Here is yet another analysis. A Park Ranger friend took this photo of the Reflections Lakes area last summer, it was taken about 100 yards east of The Castle. It appears that the lakes are about a mile away in the photo - matching the TOPO and old photo; if it's less than a mile then maybe it is the practice rock area. A shot from the NE corner of The Castle would be close - being a bit more west and also higher, only issue is the rock quality. Where's Beckey?
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Regarding rock bollards, it makes sense for running belays. You guys were really hardcore.
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I was just about ready to side with MattP and Jens - who woulda thunk. His memory at 97 is better than mine. The rock quality and terrain are starting to add up.
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And the mystery saga continues - good idea about the Stuart range. Their methods are pretty scary, especially using the rope drag over the horns for protection on those traverses.
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All these observations are starting to add up. Wasn't MRNP a pretty frequented area in the 30's era, as there were not good roads to anywhere else.
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The more I look at these, I'm thinking Leavenworth - look at the grass at the base of the climb in the first photo. I just can't place those 90 degree cut outs. And the latter photo looks more like MRNP with those alpine trees and more elevation.
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A reversed photo can really mess with you. I think the tell-tale evidence will be the unique 90 degree blocks.
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I think that maybe Dru was right on! I don't have that exact photo of those 90 degree blocks, but they look pretty familiar.
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From what I can tell it is climber trash talk.
