obwan

Metolius does Rock! I owe my life to both the TCU #2 and 4cam #5! But the originals are called "smoothies" (no ridges), worse is the lack of the inversion aspect (lock tab); they will tweak out. So, it's time to replace them and give those guys some more business - my old smoothies tag along on some routes for "leaver" cams. God bless those who think it is good booty.

I think, because if you look at it from the left side such as in the far left route with rappel bolts - It looks like a Lightning Strike.

By far, the best beta on Guye that I have ever seen - good trip report!

A-Ha, so it's a Euro term.

That's usually what I use instead of 'Falling'.

I used to say "keep me tight" - but the rock chicks thought I was a DOM.

Yoda is cool! So, It appears it came about while clipping bolts - I thought it might be a sporto term.

I'm going to stick my neck out on this one - being fairly old school ( tech rock 20years ); I think it came from the gym jocks around year 2000. I do not use it, as the people I have taught and mentored through these past years find terms like "tension" or even "tight rope" much easier to understand, unless they have been at the gym a lot. It definitely is not in John Long's book (our only bible along with 'Freedom of the Hills'). Basically you just need to communicate with your belayer as to what signals you are used to at the start of the climb, so there is no confusion. It may even have been started to eliminate confusion - this will probably end up in the 'Spray" columns, as there will be as many opinions as there are in 'bolting'. You have no doubt opened up a can of worms.

See the above thread on "Infinite Bliss".

Check out the July 2009 issue of Consumer Reports - they rated all of the latest point-n-shoot cameras.

Great trip report! You all used GOOD judgement, don't trust a big fall on those rusty spinners - nice photos and nice haircut! Just think you are alive to tell about it.

The best information I have seen is in Mike Gauthier's book "Climbing Rainier" (he's been the head climbing ranger in the past) - I'm sure you'll find it on Amazon.com. I wish I had all of his input years ago - he tells it like it really is, and he covers some fitness issues.

This is a very thoughtful and hilarious post, we do need to lighten up.

OMG - The Exit 38 Bandit?? Sorry, had to beat Dru.

More of the same - only it sounds permanent now.

Climbing desert basalt can be sketchy in the early Spring after all the Winter freezing, and then the thaw. It's been said before at Vantage, if you like the jugs holds so well - you even get to take one home now and then. Regarding Trad falls there - Tony B. just reminded me of one he calls a 45 ft whipper. Lucky for me I had an experienced belayer, I peeled on Pat's Crack (not a difficult climb) as I was trying to get my hand in the crack, and jiggled the rope which caused the piece to walk out. I was about 65-70 feet up and about 15-20feet above my last pro - a Metolius #5, four cam unit (black); and it held. The total fall was then a 40-45footer - one called a "screamer" as the free fall is long enough to cause a scream. Being light wt (120lbs) and a new rope sure helped , also the Fall factor was low, say about.4 or.5 - not one to brag about.

Hey Tony, good to hear you are still alive and well! Yeah, that was from the top of Pat's Crack when the pro walked out as I jiggled the rope out of the crack, and took that "screamer" on your brand new rope. All the planets were aligned for me that day, the celebration of life and the hang-over the next day were like a mini-epic. I just got back from my annual March trip to JT, and was there a few days after Woody Stark (67yr. my age also)- the Godfather of JT and pioneer of many climbs there. The Park & media got the story all wrong - It was a lowering screw up from the top of The Great Burrito rock formation and he fell 100ft, his buddy survived with a couple broken ribs. Thanks again for the memories. James

If you only have one day - it is best to have a guide, otherwise you'll just spend all day wandering around. With 5,000 climbs it takes a few trips to get oriented, the Trad Book mentioned is good. Check with the climbing shop "Nomad Ventures" in the town of Joshua Tree at 760-366-4684 and they can hook you up.

If anyone is at JT 3/23-3/26 - Look me up in the main CG, a Kia Rondo (charcoal) with Wash. plates; and we'll do some climbing.

Whatever happened to those EB Ford Explorers - probably in the same boneyard as the Edsel.

I believe that during WWII that EB made Down sleeping bags and jackets for high altitude flyers, but don't quote me on that.

Hey Josh: That was a fun outing at Lil' SI. I've been looking at weather.com for some nice areas during the coming week, and I'd like to get in one more climb day before heading south. The only good day looks like Vantage on Thursday - If we met at the Issaquah P&R at 7am we could be climbing by 9:30am (maybe a little cold) but dry, (high 44, low28). I've checked North Bend, Leavenworth and Index and they are all Rain! If you are a go, let me know and the climb day would be 9:30-4pm and get back to Issy by 6:30pm. I can drive and maybe donate $20 for gas and it's a go! Cheers, O'B this was supposed to be a pm.

Jens, you are the consummate Cascade Hardman - thanks for putting up with an old fart. That was a good day at World Wall and some nice leading, pretty impressive.

I was thinking of the TOPO that Lowell shows in post #865282 with the wall (red arrow), and the view (yellow arrow) toward Red. I didn't go that far up in the valley to see for sure. But was wondering if the rock there would be consistent with the old photos. I'm thinking that Wolf's memory is pretty good about it being Lundin.

I'm not a geologist - does Lundin consist of metavolcanic rock? The background in the last two photos in Lowell's post #864779 almost looks like some of that terrain around Red Mtn and Lundin. Wolf may be right. I snowshoed into Red Mtn yesterday, and no camera - duh. A very nice day in CWB.