obwan

Awesome find and good trip report! You might have a first ascent.

This is the funniest thread ever!

It looks like I'm going to have to give in and buy one of them climber crash pads. 8D

Oh for sure - Squak is just a small bump in Issaquah, not a mountain.

Lowell - Thank you for sharing this incredible find and collection of climbing in the Northwest!

Hello Tony - Good to hear you are still into it, we should get out sometime. I've been on the mend a couple of years, and now getting back into shape. As you know I have not been much of a gym rat - I can count on both hands how many times I've been to a gym in over 30 years, so I still have a few pulleys left. Give them a few days rest and some ice, along with Ibuprofin or Aleve, and of course a few beers. I've also used the Grip Master for strengthening the hand and individual fingers - just never very consistent. Leaving it in the car helped, waiting for traffic/lights. Tight taping on the bad ones helps a bit. Take Care.

I think Jens has the right answer.

Dane - You are a hero to bring this to the forefront, people should not hide or fear reality. You are the man! I've got three grandsons in the 9-12 year old range, and I try to teach them how to survive in this world - thanks again.

Google "French's Dome" - lots of info/sites.

Ditto! Mattp offers the best advice here - do not whine about the rain and mild lowland winters. The mountains are only an hour drive away and offer pretty much anything you want to do, except maybe "fantastic ice" (it's pretty elusive).

Wow! I love you man! Gracias.

Here's what I know about the approach - and be careful what you wish for, young Luke. Take exit 34 going east on I-90, just past North Bend. Crossing I-90 going north a mile or so, take the Middle Fork Rd. Drive at least 10 miles, city car OK; about 1/2 mile past the "Middle Fork Trail Head" (which is about ten miles past the Mailbox Peak parking area); cross a bridge and in just 100ft , turn right. Go about .8 mile to a parking area and a blocky creek bed, walk .3 mile (500 yds)passing another small turnout on the right. About 100-150ft past this small turnout, go left up into the woods - there may be even a cairn on the left. As you proceed into the woods you'll be on the left side of a creek for 200-300 yards. Then cross the creek (cairn?) and go up a steep ridge trail to base of the climb at 2200ft elev. - about 45 minute approach. This is an approximate GPS coordinate taken from TOPO; as I do not seem to have an actual for the base of the climb, but it will get you there. Datum NAD27; 47.54289N, 121.48556W - Ditto on the rappel gloves Have fun.

There is a ton of topo and route info on this site, also check out www.alpinedave.com for good beta on the route. His assessment of route finding and time commitment is very good. He said to plan on 14-16 hours car-to-car, and we hit it right on at 15 hours - that takes a lot of simul-climbing and simul-rappels, and there's about 20 double rope rappels (two climbers). In answer to your weather question - we seem to be in a good sunny streak, typically August and September would be the best with the long daylight. As summer ends it still may require a dark approach and maybe even a late descent. enjoy!

DanO: You have truly mastered the use of a GPS, they don't solve all the "lost" problems - but your examples illustrate how valuable they are, backed up by map&compass of course. Just make sure that you carry extra fresh batteries (I've been burned on that aspect), the best are the Lithium for cold weather use. The best advice I have given folks is, don't buy one on the way to your climb/hike - it's best to learn it's capabilities and build some confidence in what it's telling you in a learning environment. You basically need to have good navigation skills to not only understand it, but to know when it's sending you off in a bad direction. Good job!

Lots of new stuff to climb at Tieton in Smoot's book "Rock Climbing in Washington". Such as The Cave, Lava Point, etc. should be dry this weekend 10/20% chance of precip.

Take a look at my favorite dry spot in the Mt. Rainier rain shadow - head to Tieton, lots of hardman climbs. Check weather.com for Naches, WA.

Man - It sounds like the weather is lousy everywhere this year.

Dogs are no problem, the City is the only "campground", many nice spots (Area 51 is City Central). Almo is a one horse town, so food and eateries are far away. Try "Delay of Game". Since everything weather wise is a month late, it would be a good idea to call the Almo store and see how deep the snow is. Hwy 20 in Washington Pass just opened, and they reported finding 75 feet of snow at the Liberty Bell area; not sure what Idaho got this year.

Eldiente is correct, mostly dry at Smith - especially at the south facing wall "The Dihedrals". You'll find all grades there. I am envious.

This is awesome news - I was over in Mazama last week during the heavy rains/snow, and slides and it looked pretty grim, like maybe the end of June. The Motels and tourist/retail will now be able to count on Memorial weekend (maybe? - You guys are busting your butt). Hopefully the weather simmers down so you can complete your good work, and not having to keep doing it over and over. Dan - Thanks for the update!

Very funny!

All of the above advice is appropriate, Water Fall Ice - WI takes a lot of cross-over skills as mentioned above; and is not meant to discourage you. So, to be safe and maybe experience the draw to it - perhaps a top rope session with a guide or experienced friend is the way for you to go. Read some books on "How to Ice Climb", maybe that will give you an idea of what you are up against. It is costly for only a few seasonal trips a year. Maybe what would be best is to Top Rope at say, an Ice Climbing Clinic as an intro - where the gear is borrowed or provided. Going north of Wash. & Oregon is your best bet for a one shot deal, to see if you like it. Good Luck in your adventure.

Tod - Thanks for the current input, sounds very well developed now. The ratio of male/female should bring more Yanks up that way. I do remember it being more friendly than Smith in both more moderate climbs and attitudes. And as far as gas and trip time, it's about the same to Penticton (5-6hours).

I did a few trips to Skaha in the 90's, and then it ran into access road and parking problems - I hear that's been taken care of, so may also venture back up there. It was sorta the Smith Rock of Canada (ie: mostly sport climbing) - the free camp was ok, but a nuisance breaking camp every day. So pay for the commercial sites in town and enjoy the showers, we also cleaned up at the public pool in town. There are some trad and mixed routes that are well done and the ratings seem pretty accurate. It has a good hiking trail system to all of the crags.

Good job! That is hard f---ing core! Usually good until Memorial Day.