ScaredSilly

¡Ay, caramba! I can remember topping out on Ptarmigan in similar conditions. We got our tent set up in one of the flat areas below Liberty Cap and hunkered down for the night. Got up in the morning to continued wicked winds but clear weather. We got the hell up Liberty Cap and down the Emmons. I remember walking into Sherman, with folks thinking we were bad azz hard men when we said we spend the night on top. People had lost tents that night at Sherman. We got something to to drink and eat and then went down the Whintrop and back to Ipsut Creek.

One small data point, when we were on Liberty Ridge 30 years ago. We were the first of three parties to arrive at Thumb Rock for the night. That was a Saturday night.

I think the recent accident at Thumb Rock and the avalanche in 2014 are more of wrong place wrong time accidents rather due to seasonal / climatic changes. Thumb Rock is conglomerated mud and it is hard to predict when it might crumble. The same for the seracs that avalanched. Being acclimate and fit is still no guarantee ala the accident on Howse Peak this winter.

Nice ...

Years ago before the permits and shit show we skied up one March. The ski up was fine, but we walked down cause it was so icy. My friend brought his dog who was having a hard time with the ice as well. Several times she went sliding down.

Yes, I do realize that the OP is a new to glaciers, but walking across the Nisqually and looking up 7k feet is way more impressive and exciting than the Emmons. I distinctly remember that from my first couple of trips to Rainier and even 25 years later it was just as impressive.

I have come down the DC and Emmons a bunch. I would not want to go up the Emmons as it is one big seemingly never ending slog. The DC is a cattle trail. I would not want to spend a bunch of time on either routes because of all the people. I would go to the Kautz, there is some objective danger but no different than the DC. It takes about a minute to cross under the serac. Traveling up to the high camp requires glacier skills (crevasses) on the first day whereas that is not the case for the DC and Emmons. There are good camps with views that are not crowded. One can easily take two days to get to high camp and enjoy themselves while doing some skills along the way. The can be some ice on the Kautz, many think they need two tools but a competent person can do it with one. The first step is actually close enough to the high camp one could go up to it for a bit of practice. Earlier in the season it will be snow. The time to for it is mid-June to mid-July. Later the upper part of the route get lots of sun cups. I would also check out the courses on Baker by AAI. We ran into a couple of folks doing a course over 6 days and they were having a good time.

Nice perseverance, but you were not in powder but Cascade Cement :-)

Thanks I ended up watching it. Not bad. I did not know and forgot about few parts. There was some good images - all scenery though. More for the climbing crowd than the general public.

Nice job, great write up, and great photos.

Second that except more like 25 years for my Swallow.

Unless they are really long I leave them as is mostly because after a bunch of use they start to fray. At that point I can cut that bit off and melt the end to make a stiff end. Also I use crampons for different boots and sometimes with thick gloves so longer straps is helpful so not to take one's gloves off.

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Very nice. I once had the opposite on a trip on the north side. Windy the whole trip up the hill. Once on the summit it was gone.

Same here. A local trail which is dog friendly people do this ad nauseum. As such, I have gotten in the habit of kicking the shit bags into the middle of the trail. What is even worse is when their dogs shits within 100 yards of the parking lot, they still leave the bag trail side. Like it would kill them to run 100 yards back to the poop can. I talked to a friend who is a rabid pro dog person and worked with a local group that was active with allowing dogs on this trail about trying to advocate that people pack their pup's poop. Their response was if they have to pack it, they will not pick it up. At this point I am now working with FS for more active management.

If the weather is descent a trip into Mt. Washington is a reasonable ski tour day trip. Though spring time is when most go in as the snow is more consolidated. One issue to consider with Broken Top is avy danger. See the attached picture.

Years ago I bought a Suunto watch from their woman's Core series because one could get a rubber case that allowed it to hung from a lanyard around one's neck. Not sure if any of the newer watches can be set up the same but in most usages actually wearing a watch on one's wrist is a PITA.

Except when one is climbing up one route and descending another route which I have done many times. For the OP, while I have never tried or had to self arrest with skis on my back my immediate thought is that if you are lucky enough to fall and be in a self arrest position that the tips of the skis are likely going to impede one from getting in a full arresting position.

Like DPS I learned to climb ice in the last century. I have found that people have gravitated to curved handled tools for climbs that really do not need them. Especially when there is barely any steep terrain. Which means the tool is worthless for caning and plunging. At the same time such tools force people to go all four well before it is really needed and thus crawl. For Leutholds all one needs is a std. axe and a ski pole. Petzl Summit Evo and a 50 cm Sum'Tec are a good recommendation. That will get you up many routes even routes like Liberty Ridge. IMHO the best all tools are the first generation BD Cobras. Slight curve, can plunge and cane, good swing, functional adze, can climb all kinds of stuff with them.

To those who contribute and maintain it, thanks for all the work. This site helps keep me young ...

If you are using skis to 11k or 14k they are transportation nothing more. Find an old pair of the Silvreatta 404s or even 300 and mount them up. Adjust them for your Baruntse's. That will get you up the hill and back down. The skiing to 11k is basically a long uphill, Motorcycle Hill can be skied or walked, we did both while acclimatizing for another route. Both take about the same amount of time and effort. Walking is easier if you have a sled cause you can go up rather than side hill where it will roll. I prefer drag bags. Above that you are at Windy Corner and yer back to a long uphill to 14k. Once at 14k if it is stormy yer probably not going far. And if nice weather head up with a load. Taking two pairs of boots is silly. Replace the weight and bring good food or booze. If you want to ski the upper hill then plan for that. But given what you are describing that does not sounds like what you really are planning.

Should just remove that crap and hike it out of the wilderness.

I have done a fair amount of 4th class climbing. That means it could be 3rd class to easy 5th class. About the only thing I can think of that we do is when traveling unroped we tend to be close together so if the first knocks something off it will not have traveled far before potentially hitting the second. When we decide to break out the rope we rarely short rope and depending on the terrain try to keep two pieces of gear in at all times. Sometimes it is only one. Edit to add that the 2018 ANAM has a blurb about 4th class climbing.

At 1:10 you can see why the victim was were he was at. Obviously he slipped.

Though these guys are long gone. Folks should take the time to seek out the old guard and hear their stories first hand. I have had the chance to sit around the table with many of the old guard. Hearing their stories first hand has given me fond memories. It would been great to have heard these guys stories. I would have come in first but for that damn bull! Got even as we ate it!!