ScaredSilly

Nice

Funny, up in Little Cottonwood Canyon here in Oootah the LDS Church took some of the boulders we used to climb on and turned them into slabs for their conference center. So we were climbing on them before they became "sacred"

About this time 15 years ago I ran up the Spur right after a recent storm. Primo conditions on the route with ice going up through the upper 500 feet. I had the whole mtn. to myself not another soul up there. And yeah the road to Cloud Cap was still open.

Where is my pink tutu? I'll show those sissy how to go on pointe ...

Hmm, well I have climbed the Mowich did it last summer June 06 and I have walked in from Carbon River to play on the Willis (March 05). And have been schlepping my carcus up the hill for over a quarter century so I might be able to offer some incite. In the past 10 years or so things seem to be melting out earlier and earlier. As such, many of the routes that could traditionally be done in the early fall are not really possible any more. For instance, the FA of Liberty Ridge was in September. When I did it some 15 plus years ago in mid June we could approach the ridge from the left side. This year in June most climbed up from far on the right side leaving themselves open to the Liberty Ice Cap. Over Memorial day in 2000 we found hard ice and sun cups on the lower Ptarmigan Ridge however we only climbed over a few feet of rock. IIRC this year folks had a lot more rock. Now could it be climbed in October this year? Certainly, a couple of good snows and some good freeze thaw could bring things into shape. But the bitch is going to be getting to climb. My approach is typically from CR. The long hike is no big deal but crossing the Mowich glacier would be ugly as would be coming in from Mowich Lake, lots of cracks to deal with. Coming from the south via Edmonds perhaps similar - I have yet to get on that side of the hill so can not say much about it. BTW I assume you saw this photo from early August:

I just picked up on this article. Not a bad article at all. Having hiked the Carbon River road in the past because it was washed out a few thoughts. The original road went far past the campground almost to the suspension bridge. After it got washed out it was abandoned (ala West Side Road). So in some ways what they are talking about is no different. Yeah it sucks to have to walk in and out so far. But on the other hand those that came in the early years had a bit of journey in as well. So instead of a quick weekend it now becomes a long weekend to do a route on that side of the hill. However, as was said access is important for not just those who are up to the challenge but for others. As such, there needs to be a balance between hump my ass anywhere folks and the bug screen tourist. At this point it is probably time for a study of the river and the cost of routing a trail. Personally I would be up for a mtn. bike trail in that would allow for bike, wheel chair, and perhaps in some cases an electric cart that would get some handicaped folks back into the woods.

Speaking of the Mtn Division: Bob Bates who spent much of the war testing cold weather gear that was used by those boys and got the third ascent of Denali of it passed away this month: http://obit.brewittfuneralhome.com/obit_display.cgi?id=458140

Hi BIll, I did know abut Ken dying up in AK. Yeah, what happen kinda blew everyone away when we heard he fell off the boat. I am sure I heard the whole story but forgot much as it has been 25 years or so. Too Long. Sandy was a character. I remember one time he got dropped off about 10 miles from home and said no problem I'll just ski home. I think it is pretty cool that there have been a few good climbers come out of that part of the state. Funny as I was coming home I was wondering if you were the "Portland friend" that we originally had listed as doing some of the early routes with Richard Candelaria up at HIgh Valley. However, at this point we have them listed with Lin Casciato, Mark Kerns, and Richard Wilkins as doing the FA. The problem is that back then no one really cared who did what. At least many of the principles are still around so we can perhaps sort it out. I have not heard much from that young whipper snapper since Mark Kerns chimed in. EDIT - I have reorganized the Anthony Lakes area by area now. So if folks have something to add go for it.

Great to see some interest in the area. I just talked with Dave Jensen a couple of weeks ago. I am currently trying to document the climbing in NE Oregon via mountain project: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oregon/north_eastern_oregon/106007730 As was mentioned the Falcon Guide is really poor. I am trying to use mtn. project to document things correctly. If you add something please please note your sources. You could say I am taking the Jeff Thomas point of view and trying my best to have history as well but it takes time. Anthony Lakes has several groups come through in the 70s so there is some descent documentation but I am still sorting it out. The Ramp on Lee's Peak was first climbed by Dave Jensen and Mead Hargis in the early 70s. The ramp on GunSight was done by myself and Tim Bailey in early 80s. Both are good fun very moderate routes. As mentioned there are routes to the left of the Ramp on Lees as we ran into some of Dave's pins during one climb. I have also found some of Lute Jerstad bolts down around Hoffer Lakes on a route that I climbed. There are many routes on Lookout - I am in the process of sorting through them. The old Summit article that is refered to is something I wrote with Steve Ryman in the mid 80s. The topo is for High Valley, which when I get a chance will be added to mtn proj. as well. As for skiing the ramps yeah they got skied by the locals. What a hoot. Did Lee's in floppy leathers on some old three pins. Never got to Gunsight. BTW If you want to add something to Anthony Lakes please hold off as I would like to reorganize the section by peak and area as there is a lot more routes on Lookout than I thought. Ken Cronk - now there is a name I have not heard in a long long time. He, Sandy Brown and I went ice climbing one winter. My first ice climb up in Huricane Creek. Drove my dad's old sedan up the icy/snowy road with chains on. On the way back we stopped and bought some shine in a mason jar from the liquor store and drove back to LaGrande. What fun was that - I was all of 18.

About the only hazard is from snow bridges collapsing when going over a creek. This happened to me one 4 July weekend. By now they should be totally exposed.

As was said - show up at the Jeny Lake Ranger Station and talk to the boys. My suggestion would be to to like many and head up Garnet Canyon and do a route on the Grand and Middle. Try Irene Arete as well. For some excellent day cragging head Death Canyon - Caveat Emptor is a fun route. As for September weather - rain, sleet, snow, sunshine, hail. Any and everything in otherwords - be prepared for it. If you do get moisture that time of year be very prepared for veriglass - things like the OS which is on the west side of the Grand can be very dangerous when descending because of veriglass. More than one person has gone for the ride of their life there. The Exum which is south facing will be reasonable because of sunshine.

This link has a link to a whole bunch of pictures from last year: http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/2006/07/mowich-face.html Coming in from Carbon River is the best option - but this year not so much.

Let see for good beer head to the Bayou. I would skip the brew pubs like Squatters and Red Rock not cause their beer is bad it is pretty good. But being so close to the show they will be very crowded. The Bayou does get crowded on the weekends though. As for climbing - it is dam hot here. We have gone to morning climbing instead. Some places for morning climbing. S-Curves, Sports Challenge Buttrees, Psycho-Babble are quick and easy to get to. For nice all day head to Alta and Albion Basin and play on Devil's Castle or some of the new climbs around Cerect Lake.

I have contributed a few things to mtnproj and I have commented on a few routes. In principle the idea is good especially for new info. But the problem is that only one person controls the content. For instance, I found some inaccuracies and quite a bit missing in one route description. The only way I could add anything was via a comment. It would have been nice if I could have filled in the missing info and made corrections. So IMHO it needs to be more wiki style so that others can edit and add pertinent material when necessary.

I typically do not boil snow melt water. I, like others getting fresh clean snow is the best practice. That said after a winter climb of Broken Top I got Giardia from likelihood snow melt water. That was not fun.

Unfortunately, when he landed he did not tie off the chair so it went back up along with his video camera. It is probably in Montana.

Ditto, WTF. Killing a snake for what reason? That is pretty loser.

Jedi, you are going to have to get in line for old farts on the Cassin - in 2000 when we did it I was the pup at 36 my other two partners were 43 and 51. Our group was called - Old and in the Way. The other groups that year sure loved our steps and the bivy sites we cut out. Well except some young punks who said our tracks detracted from their experience. The old fart that went up the Cassin with us just went up with another old fart and did Liberty for the first time this spring. Their average age was just near 60.

Last I checked much of the Wallowas have been put under the NW Forest Pass. So while you might be able to camp free you will need a pass. That said the Cornicopia Trailhead is free - however there is no car camping. Have you checked out their website - it is pretty reasonable.

You could do that talk to the folks at Rock & Ice. Might be a nice way to get on some of the classics but $$ for it. I would probably just show up and walk down the Carraige Road and bump into folks. Do not forget to get your day permit.

I have passed an bagged RMI client on the DC. It was so sad. The person was just waiting there. They were warm and comfortable and in a safe area. From the sounds of discription I would say that leaving the client was marginial for the conditions. He probably should have had more insulation and shelter. Carrying a sleeping bag and bivy sac would add all of 5 pounds. The guide should have had this anyways. The RMI guides really really make sure that their clients understand that they are not to move from where the leave them for any reason.

WOW - amazing to see things so dry. In M-day of May 2000 when we did the rock bands they were just a few moves of rock that were covered in ice. I almost thought about pro but skipped it. Much of the slope though hard snow was cupped so it was fairly easy. Cool to see some right side pics - we went left which was fun. The exciting part was the step around to the right to gain the upper glacier. Great Exposure. Good fun.

In the past I have bought boots with alveolite liners and skipped the regular liners all together. As folks say they do pack out and get trashed easier than the others. When that happens I just buy another pair and then when they are gone so are the shells. I did that with several pairs of plastics. Nerver found them too warm for other stuff. As for parkas I have Feathered Friend Frontpoint. Good all round jacket for anything in the Americas. I agree with Climzalot that having layers is nice - but there is a balance other wise some stuff will stay in the pack and never be used. I usually have a fleece jacket, one piece climbing suit and a down jacket as my outer layers.

Opposite side of the hill. We traversed over that spot last year on our Mowich climb. Those shoes will be there for a long time as few parties do Mowich let alone come in from that side. It is too bad that the Carbon is still out as for routes on that side of the hill coming in from there is really a better alternative. The traverse around from the Emmons is not that bad either. Are conditions so sucky this year that the snow has not consolidated and snow shoes are really needed ?

I bet the geochemistry final was harder than the face . Nice!