ScaredSilly

What no picnic on the Queen's Chair?? Ya gotta stop there at least for the views. BTW a couple of years ago we camped at the saddle, did Leuthold one day then Sandy Glacier Headwall the next. That was good fun.

The Pearly Gates have never needed two tools. Yeah it can be steep but it is a short step. Folks need to up their skills.

It is all training - just haul all yer crap with ya.

When one is in a public area there is no expectation of privacy. So post the mug shot. (That said, this is a private forum so the site owners can have their own rules). Also if you are sure of who the person was associated with send them and/or the organization a polite note as well. I have had good success doing that on various issues. With all crap floppy about on his back in addition to two tools he probably should have been belayed.

Article updated: 2 Airlifted Off Mount Rainier, 1 Presumed Dead

Two stuck at Muir - one unknown: http://www.opb.org/news/article/mount-rainier-washington-rescue-snow/

I know site owners do not like this software (and some block those using it) but it helps prevent butt chaffing. https://adblockplus.org

Great history summation. But I wonder if Barbara Washburn ever realized Brad climbed Mt. Bertha with a Martha Washburn. Especially, given it was their honeymoon ???

In general for the Alaska Range mid May through mid June is the preferred time frame.

Well said, the old guard just did things that are rarely repeated to day.

Though the temps might be around 0 at best bring the -20 bag. You can always open it up a bit. As others have said, bring lots of good food and eat well. Bring a tent for each person/couple, chairs, also it might sound silly a cooler to keep things from really freezing.

Doug was the ACC President: http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ef7899d23d&e=06b0bc1dee

I have never been sled user, instead using drag bags. A good source for a bag is your local home brew shop. The 25 kilo sacs for grain make excellent drag bags. They are also great bags for dumping stuff into around camp.

Do not forget to add in the $30 base camp fee and the 5% Federal tax for yer flight. As for the NPS fee, on my next trip we will fly in and check things out before deciding on our objective.

Down climbing???? Should have bum slid that sucker - way more fun.

I think it is great when there is gear like steel biners that make it easy for everyone. An my props to those who spend the extra $$$. But I agree I would rather setup my own anchor and use the gear for rapping off just so it lasts longer. That said if being a bit lazy I might just clip and go. No, many do not.

NIce pano shot - and good on ya for going through the Pearly Gates.

While we all call them harnesses they are actually called sit harnesses with the goal being to place one in a sitting position when used. Such a position places the "least" amount of stress on a person's body. Running the rope through the waist and belay loop ain't going to anything more than running the rope through just the waist loop. That is because the belay loop is never going to be loaded. So while one may be in a more vertical position most of the load will be at waist rather than at the waist and legs. As for Todd's death - it was the belay loop that failed.

It will be interesting to learn more: http://www.kptv.com/story/30628266/teams-work-to-rescue-two-oregon-climbers-on-mt-jefferson

That works ... one year I met up with two guys coming down the right chute who came up WCR and said they could not find the summit. It was a bit of white out so understandable. But what was funny is that when I arrived on the summit it cleared enough that I could see their tracks coming up from the old chute right below the summit and down the right chute. They missed the summit by 50 feet. Which was okay cause it is easy to walk off the north side.

Now that is funny. Never known anyone not able to find the Spur. Though this time of year it may not be that obvious as the top is rocky. That said you might have been happy that you did not as it most likely it could have involved a fair amount of down climbing. Years ago I went up the spur in mid October and the upper part was hard névé and ice. I descend the South Side but walked back around to Cloud Cap via the Newton Clark. Which was actually quite nice. BTW From the photos it would appear you went up the right gully. Is that correct?

Sounds like you had fun which is what it is all about. As for the date, your assumption is valid. But then what you do when reporting the ascent is add sometime to the affect of: While it is generally thought that winter/summer ends on the 21 September. Some years the equinox is earlier or later. In 2015 the equinox was on 23 September at at 4:21 A.M. (ET). As such the ascent on the 22 September was technically a winter ascent. Then those that want to pooh-pooh things can swim against the above and look dumb.

I wonder if Marc ever realized that the 22 Sept was the last day of winter not the 20 Sept. For the pedantic: Autumnal equinox was on September 23 at 4:21 A.M. (ET).

Interesting perspective by Scott Fischer's wife. I think there are several messages here. When one becomes a "public" figure there is a loss control over their image. It is unavoidable. Just look at what happens when one becomes involved with politics. One has to have a thick skin as do those close to them. It is good that she is focusing her efforts on what she can control. Even if Wikipedi is a PITA it does show one can make a difference. As for the events, there will always be different views. And regardless if a movie is made it will bastardize the events. No ifs, ands, or buts. That is Hollywood.

FWIW there are great bivy sites on the top of the Grand Stand. They are windy but good. We set up a bibler there 20 years ago. And yes, if doing the Italian Cracks and gaining the Second Ledge on the N. face, one should finish the regular N. Face - the pendulum pitch and the traverse in to the V are classic. Most just do the regular N. Ridge which is good climbing and from the Second Ledge the finish goes quick. Trying to get from the N. Face to the OS via Second Ledge is a PITA especially because the ledge is gone between the N Face and N Ridge but good to know about as it is the escape route off the hill. Otherwise sounds like you lucked out with some continuous good weather.