ScaredSilly

Look at the new one from McMurdo - very small and not that expensive. Get the GPS version.

Good on ya for getting out east and seeing some new country. There is fun little stuff to be sniffed out. Not to mention some bigger lines. As one of those who came after Dave Jensen and spent many summers and winters up at Anthony Lakes climbing, skiing, and forms of debauchery Shapp is spot on. The Falcon guide is a piece of excrement. I spent an hour with at the Falcon booth correcting the numerous mistakes in the book not such for this area but others as well in Northeastern Oregon. I will see if I can find the article we wrote for summit,it may be old but it is at least accurate. In the meantime this article we wrote might help for High Valley - Climbing 100, 1986

The Nose did get a new name "The Nose Free". In my experience (30+ years of flogging around) very few routes get renamed after a free ascent. Yeah sure there are the exceptions. One reason many of the big walls are probably not renamed is because of the relative of free v aid that is freed v the amount of time between the FA and FFA. In some cases such as Astroman it is known as the free version versus the East Face of Washington Column which is the aid version. So if you say you have done Astroman you had damn well had done it free. Personally if someone has freed a significant feature on a route that is a small portion of the overall route that does not warrant a name change. Especially, if they happen to be one of many people who have freed various portions over the years. If someone has freed a significant amount of the route that has not been freed in the past then maybe all depends ... BTW if some does an ascent on TR then some one else later does the first lead should they get to remain it???

Huh?? The Colorado is a river not a glacier????

Yeah, don't be silly, wrap your willy. The cost of blanket and the time to install it is probably less than the cost of rebuilding the ramp each winter. So while the warming is causing grief the solution is economical. Of course there may not be any snow on the runs but that is another problem.

Yeah but at least the state will not have allocated monies for an interpretive center. On the other hand getting spoofed by kids scribing will surely leave little confidence in the abilities of the state archeologists.

I remember once walking into the NPS office in the Tetons, no one was around so I wandered around and happened to walk into the Super's office. My complaint was that I did not like the fact I was visiting only Teton yet had to pay an entrance fee for both Teton and Yellowstone. The Super understood my view point but said I should talk to congress as they set up the rules (Congress sets the entrance fees for all parks). The Super then asked me how many days I was in the Park - two days - so that came out to $5 a day. He then asked me if thought the cost was worth the fun compared to a movie. Of course it was. He had me there. The problem with the author's thesis is that she can already afford the entrance fee and feels that those who already can afford to go could probably afford a bit more for what they get - especially when compared to a night out at the movies. This thesis is true but only for a portion of the population. The problem with her thesis is that it excluded the population that can not afford to go to the parks in the first place yet they still pay taxes and get no benefit. The other problem is that for those who visit 90% of the cost comes from the general fund. So when 90% of the cost of the visit is already subsidized why not just make it free to all? On the other hand why not have those who do use the parks at least contribute something to their up keep? Where to balance?? As was noted there are free days a few times a year. Perhaps this idea is the answer. Many museums have a free day once a month as they want everybody to be able to see the arts yet realize that the cost is often more than many can afford. Yeah you are restricted to certain weekends. But then again if you want to go on another weekend you know will have to pay. And if it is important enough you will find a way to make it work (i.e. you have an incentive - which are good).

If the scribbling is true then this closure will go down in history as a close second to the rock art found on the Deschuttes River (???) some twenty years (??) ago. The Forest Service got all excited about the discovery, got funding for an interpretive center and were just about start when the perp came forward and admitted that they were trying to understand the process and made some drawings/

If ya did not puke it was only a mild case of AMS. Bummer though you were close.

The problem is that the park does not have cultural resource person on staff who goes out looking for this type of evidence. They come in once there is a need. More than likely a climber noticed it and asked. This set the wheels in motion.

There is now a followup post: Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 8:24 am Post subject: Closures Hello all, The current climbing closure encompasses the following routes: Llamasutra Wannabe Llamas Llama Enlightenment When Llamas Need Protection Entering Relativity Some rock art was found in the middle of these climbing routes. Since the discovery of these drawings there have been numerous meetings at the site to evaluate and determine their authenticity as to wether or not they were drawn by Native Americans. During this evaluation process Management has called for the aforementioned routes to be closed temporarily. OPRD is committed to providing world class outdoor recreation within its parks, and we are also comitted to preserving Oregon's rich cultural heritage. The goal is to create a management plan so that the two can exist harmoniously. So again, thank you for your cooperation and patience regarding these closures. Julian T Colesberry Park Ranger Smith Rock State Park 541-604-4362

Take less crap and there is no need to haul. For instance, bring a bivy sac and sleep on your pack. Wear all your clothes including rain pants. No need for a bag or pad. Yeah you might be a little cold but it will sure beat trying to haul a pack. How much water are you planning on bringing? We got some near the bivy at the start of the route. Seems like we did not get any more water while on route though there was some at the mid way bivy. We still had enough so went past the drips. Kinda regretted that decision as it was much later before we got the chance to fill up again during the descent. BTW the upper pitches are pretty steep as well. Which be more of hauling issue than the lower pitches.

You need to figure out what the constitution is about. You are entering a PRIVATE business. If FF wanted you to strip naked an wear down pasties in order to shop at their store they could. The constitution is about how the GOVERNMENT and the PEOPLE interact. As FF policy - what is the big deal? Some shops do allow food or drink, some make wear shoes and a shirt, some make you ring a bell before coming through the door. Some even say we reserve the right to refuse service.

It used to be that you could sleep in your car if you were arriving late and leaving early. Probably no longer an option. Park at the waste station just down from Paradise again arrive late, leave early.

Each May for the past 15 plus years I run up a couloir on Mt Olympus (in Oootah). It is an easy climb with a great bum slide. I named the couloir after a friend who climbed it well before I could wipe my own butt. The climb is mostly a way to stretch ones legs but it is also a pilgrimage as on top I often toast friends who are no longer around. This spring was kinda grim as we found gear from a person who fell into the couloir and died. We toasted them at the top. Otherwise I try to get out to Rainier each spring. On average I have managed to do every other year for the past 26 years.

Most of those on the rescue were dirt bags that had already served their 2 years. PS I am proud to say that some of those dirt bags are good friends who I have had the privilege to share a rope with on many of occasion. PSS Rumors are that there is movie documentary in the works.

Cool, looks like you got some good weather. The 5.5 X pitch must have been terrifying.

Yuk! At least the guy did not drop trowel as well.

More states need to have this type of legislation -

Does anyone else find the name ironic. First we have Camalots - a very nice play on cams and what they do. Also on the well know fictitious city of Camelot of medieval times. Which some take the liberty and add mystical creatures such as dragons to. BTW While the double axial patent has expired other parts "I believe" have had subsequent patents due to improvements.

For two person teams I typically carry coils, but with three person teams we do not carry coils because if an end person goes in the middle person takes the load while the other person drops their end. I have dropped into a crevasse at the same time as my partner. The only thing that "saved" us was 1) they were different crevasses 2) we both went into our armpits 3) they were small cracks.

I have climbed in October. Excellent ascent - one of my best. Had the whole mountain to myself, not another living soul to be had. It was a lovely Sunday morning on the Spur. A couple days before it was stormy so the cold temps made for excellent conditions actually had ice up high on the hill. I went up and over and then traversed around on my climb that in itself was great. As suggested above, wait until you come out to make a final decision.

As of the time of my post there is a link to the above story on CNN.

Congrats, now get home and mow the lawn and finish your honey do list ;-).

We did Apron strings to merci me and finished on the dike. No aiders required, I guess you can always French free.