ScaredSilly

The one person I can think of who around at that time but not sure if was guiding was Alan Kerney. I climbed with him a bit in the mid 80s no pony tail then.

What is happening now will make a little but not a lot of difference come June. A cold spring could mean things could be good until July, a warm spring and June is blow out.

Another posting: http://www.ktvl.com/news/shasta-1194521-down-climber.html?hpt=T2

Passing of an era, especially as Jay is gone as well.

If you can find a WIld Things pack and you like it buy it as they are not making packs right now/any more. I have two of their packs - Alpinista and Guide. I like both - light weight and functional. Carrying heavy loads is always a problem with such packs. I think Cilo would be my next choice ...

Given that my std axe is a 60 cm and my ice tools are 50 cm if I think that I am going to need a second tool I would just take my ice tools so that when needed I can move fast. That said given the amount of low angle glacier travel I would bring skis poles as one can move pretty fast doing axe-pole shuffle.

With all fucking booby traps the pot growers are setting up I can see why they have gone this route. And of course if ya ain't doing anything illegal then wtf. However, I can just see it now - some family goes out camping and their 5 year old runs out of the tent naked. Now we got the FS making child porn. As for smoking wacky tobacco - unless you are showing the leaves in all their glory ain't a chance in hell the AG is going waste their time as many people still roll their own tobacco cigs. Perhaps the cameras should be id'ed and then publicized as geocaches.

Hehe, That is me leading in the third picture. Brian Smoot who did the FA in 85 was belaying me on the last pitch. The ice was pretty picked out so lots of hooking. We got a good dump of snow this morning so the ski in / out should be good. Some good photos from the FA and more recent. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/santaquin_canyon/105881407

All those jokers are clown hill skiing at the resorts. When they go OOB it is darwinism. Not to piss people off even more but states like Utah, Colorado, Montana have a greater avalanche problem than the PNW. In the time I spent running around OR and WA in the winters avy danger was that not much of problem and fairly easy to predict. Whereas the mountain states it is more problematic. As such resources, are dedicated where there is a greater need. BTW If you are curious this year in the Wasatch avalanches have been quite problematic: http://utahavalanchecenter.org/services/avalanchelist Numerous rides by very very seasoned people some of which are friends and forecasters.

Rubber shaft or smooth carbon fiber??

I would carry over to the DC. Once you summit you can follow the cow path down the hill. The Kautz will have cracks and cups which will make for a slow descent. It also avoids the ice fall which does have a habit of calving. This route we took for mid July and it worked out great though we took a very leisurely pace and camped along the way.

bring clear plastic bags, shovel dense snow into them, place in the sun, let melt while you work on your tan ...

I did the same Blue Cross... lots of options.

Sure glad he had those fancy dancy curved tools with reverse droop picks for climbing 45 degree ice .... hahahahahaha.

Hi, Sorry for the delay. I was out of the states for a bit. My contact was never able to get anything worked out. The importer is a marine wholesaler down in Florida and for whatever reason my contact felt it was not worth the time setting up things for a one off sale. My suggestion is that if folks have a contact via PMR or another similar rescue organization that you try that route. Otherwise REI $270 is a descent enough of price.

To leash or not to leash. For a nice little hill climb I typically have a wrist leash. Now whether it is used is another question. Crossing a glacier - you bet. Plodding along where I am zig zagging back and forth I might or might not be using it. Most of the time I do, learning how to switch the leash from wrist to wrist is not that hard. it just gets to be a PITA when going only a few steps and in some cases I might not switch at all especially when going down hill. As for the length, the leash is as long as my axe - this length is so that if I want to chop a step or use my axe as a tool I can slide my hand down to the spike so I can swing it properly.

Seems like I have seen something similar in my travels but I can not recall. For ice climbing, we used to carry conduit for bailing off of. That was before v-threads got to be the normal - though I bailed using them back on the 80s.

And what do you base the above from??? You say "most frequently" - which implies gray area. Perhaps Colin did take care of it, maybe BD. But until there are some a facts presented much of what has been alleged is just idle speculation. Which being idle speculation some might take as an attempt to defame. Further, I have yet to see anything presented such case law that says anything needs to happen (which is why I posted the fair use info) That said, the topic is important for people to address which is also why I posted the fair use info. However, a quick note to Colin and BD might have have garnered more than slagging them in public.

Perhaps this might shed some light on the discussion: http://www.centerforsocialmedia.org/resources/publications/fair_use_in_online_video One question to ask who produced the video and who owns it and thus who is responsible for securing copyrights? Did Colin make the video and sell it BD? If so I would think he is the responsible party. Or did he make the video as part of his sponsorship agreement? If so, then it might be a gray area of who should be responsible. Certainly, if BD produced it then they would be the responsible party. At this point I would say it is a gray area - as no one knows the sponsorship agreement.

Sobo - Like others have said I would double check with your agent as well. As I too have not ever heard of car insurance covering the contents that were unrelated to the vehicle.

I would not quite say that the Darts are disposable. You can actually buy replacements for the front section for about 1/2 the original cost. Of course by that time the complete crampon is probably shot anyways. You can also buy the dart or dartwins and put them on the heal section. So if you are really cheap you can have 1 1/2 pairs and go bothways. Gene, I would not be embarrassed about putting them back together bassackwards. That is nothing compared to a friend who BITD got a pair skins for his skis and said they were terrible that is until he realize he had put the tip and tail kit on the wrong ends.

I thought the Petzl single wire gate interesting. One thing I noticed is that it seemed like the opening was slightly smaller than most. I also notice that the bottom of the biner came out more than most. Both of these features are directly in response to the single wire gate.

Not sure about NTSB, but the TSA should not be any weirder than normal when looking at the pack.

Hi, nothing yet. I pinged my contact (they can not make the ultimate decision) so there is bureaucracy at play. I hoped to have something sooner sorry.

I have been using a Bibler hooped bivy sac for quite a while. Except I use it with out the hoop. Lots of room for me and all my crap. If I have my boots inside I put them up by my head to help keep the sac off my face. It comes in two sizes, I got the long so I could bring all my crap in with me.