ScaredSilly

Quiet now, don't be giving those knucleheads any ideas about any other peaks.

Yeah right, this auction is not mine - just some photos I ran across and thought folks would have fun guessing at who, what, and where. Next time ya might read who the seller is and where they are located before spewing. My name ain't Carolyn Jane and I sure as hell ain't in Maine, though I was there a week ago :-0.

Okay so which of you old farts are in these photos? Are what are you doing in the junk drawer??? http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Junk-Drawer-Mountain-Climbing-Photo-1969-1-/260673563764?pt=Art_Photo_Images&hash=item3cb15aec74 http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Junk-Drawer-Mountain-Climbing-Photo-1969-2-/260673563934?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb15aed1e http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Junk-Drawer-Mountain-Climbing-Photo-1969-3-/260673564137?pt=Art_Photo_Images&hash=item3cb15aede9 http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Junk-Drawer-Mountain-Climbing-Photo-1969-4-/260673564270?pt=Art_Photo_Images&hash=item3cb15aee6e http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Junk-Drawer-Mountain-Climbing-Photo-1969-5-/260673564396?pt=Art_Photo_Images&hash=item3cb15aeeec http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Junk-Drawer-Mountain-Climbing-Photo-1969-6-/260673563033?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb15ae999#ht_500wt_1042 The seller says Mt. Hood which might be possible for a couple of them but not the others. The aid climbing looks like Smith or Peshastin Pinnacles. A couple might in the N. Cascades???

Not sure what to think about this renaming ... but it is a done deal as I doubt the bill will be vetoed: http://ktna.org/2010/09/30/peak-on-mt-hunter-named-after-ted-stevens

I usually find that once I am 100' above (or below) the clouds I can see pretty good. Of course that can happen at any elevation. Low viz hiking is actually better than when it is clear. With low viz you do not have time to get scared before walking off a cornice. It just happens. Kinda like shit happens.

Just to keep folks on track $0 of the fees are for rescue related incidents. For instance, the Lama helicopter on Denali is paid for out of other funding. However, the fees are being used to fund programs to prevent rescues. Which is what started the programs in the first place. The decision was made to have a presence on the mountain as well as greater contact with climbers before they even arrive in Alaska. Take the Muir, Emmons and 14k camps which is where probably 95% of all climbs on Denali and Rainier take place. Having a ranger presence - as in one who actually walks around and makes contact with visitors - gives them a chance to hopefully prevent more issues from arising. A worthy idea - to a degree. So, in many ways the fees are "preventative" rescue insurance that climbers are all paying for because the NPS can not require rescue insurance. Which is what they really should do and require it of all park users while pulling their operations off the mountain except for a patrol or two mid season like would be done within any park. Now here is the rub - many of us on CC have no need for such contacts high on the hill as most have their act together (most of the time). Give us a weather report and perhaps some route condition info and we are happy campers. This info is no different than someone who is going to hike the Wonderland Trail. For me the blog has been one of the most beneficial parts of the Rainier program. So part of what has happened is that the burden has shifted to where the need is perceived/desired for the vast majority. So those of us who do not need their presence are paying for services we do not want. At least Rainier is park wide. For Denali, why is it for just Foraker and Denali and not park wide? Last time I was in the park the ranger literately said "Given the route you are doing there is not much I can say - do want some blue bags and look at the route photos?" Yet we paid the same as everyone else. However, now that the programs are in place the NPS really needs to look at their programs overall as to what services they are providing and what are the needs. I do not believe they are doing that fully. For instance, from: http://www.thenewstribune.com/2010/09/12/1337950/climbers-decry-fee-hike.html#ixzz0zWhDMK8V "That isn’t true, Uberuaga said. After climbing ranger Sam Wick fell into a crevasse July 1, 2009, while patrolling the mountain on skis, the park began analyzing the program and how well its rangers were trained, Uberuaga said. They discovered that the rangers lacked some training and that increasing climbing fees could pay for that training. The park already had hired two permanent climbing rangers to work six months per year starting in 2010." While I do not know the particulars of this incident - it does give me pause as to why Rainier hires other rangers and trains them without passing those costs on to say those getting a hiking permit. Or why are they are hiring climbing rangers who need to be trained in the first place. I am all for advancement in the work force and for training. But there is a thin line of who should paying for it.

Folks, I got word that Denali has increased the special use fees for climbing from $200 to $500 without any public input on the program. I am not sure of rules regarding such fees but in previous discussions Denali said that they would solicit public input. They went back on their word and slipped the increase through this past week. Rainier is also looking at fee increase. However, they are just beginning the process. Attached is a joint letter sent by the Access Fund, Alpine Club, and the AMGA. http://www.sci.utah.edu/~allen/misc/J.Jarvis_fee_letter.pdf Note that not only is the letter sent to the NPS but also to many congressional Senator and Representatives. I would suggest that folks start talking to their Senators and Representatives - I have never been happy with the fees. Especially, on Denali for a variety of reasons. Seems they are trying to use climbers as a cash cow for services that many do not want. Rainier has been better but I still have reservations.

Nice to see that. A friend (a non climber) was asking me about the searches being called off. I commented that there was chance that late in summer there would be a chance for additional searches once the snow had melted back. Glad to hear that they are being conducted. Closure for the families and friends as well as perhaps some additional clues as to what happened.

For giggles this summer we planned to do Furher Finger and then Sunset Ridge. I do not think caches are necessary as such we just schlepped everything we needed with us. If schlepping the 5lbs extra is going to be too much you probably should not be on the hill. Because of winds we only did Furher. The trick to me for doing such silliness is to figure out how to stay high. For instance, we planned to descend the Tahoma and traverse over to Sunset Ridge which would have kept us above 10k. Also I would suggest doing the "harder" route second as you will have less stuff to schlep and be more acclimated. My suggestion would be start at Paradise and go up the Kautz. Descend to Emmons. Traverse around via the upper Wintrop to the Carbon. Yeah you will lose lots of the elevation but think of it as a rest day. I have done the descent of the upper Wintrop several times and it is pretty easy with only a few major cracks. From there do Liberty and come down the DC.

Sobo, check out our trip report from 2006 on the blog, follow the links to the slide show my friend Vince did. It has photos from Seattle park. http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/2006/07/mowich-face.html

Yes, we have descended a couple of times from about 8200 feet on the ridge down to the Mowich. Of course it is also loose and you lose a lot of elevation. We did this descent on the way to the Mowich Face. Though I suppose one could ascent the glacier to the base of Ptarmigan Ridge.

Just do it in the original style as Exum did - solo it. There is only one serious move on the route.

We did the direct a couple of years ago: Worked for us though a bit stout for some as it was 5.10+ in places which was a bit dicey with packs.

by who, the owner? or someone else?

It is kinda of like when Alpinist went under. I sold off dups for a premium. Now that they are back back issue prices went down yet there is no change in the number of available. As the old saying goes a fool and his money are soon departed. BTW Rumor has it that Mad Rock bought CCH ...

As said above the Furher FInger is good as well as the Kautz. I have done both as up and over routes coming down the DC. There will be people on that side of the Nisqually so both routes will probably have some tracks but it will not be a cattle trail. So you will have to be a bit more heads up. Gib ledges is fun as well but I think at this point doing a route not out of Muir would be good. If you want a more remote route look at the Tahoma Glacier. I have not been on that side of hill but it seems popular early season.

Sad situation in deed. I heard that Lee may have well saved the other's lives as he was the last person on the rope and there was a long grove in the snow/ice from him trying to self arrest which undoubtedly slowed the others as they fell into the crevasse. Having the most experienced person last on the rope is SOP when in a mixed group. So my hat is off to Lee and my condolences to his family and friends.

Josh, whether you realize it or not your Rainier adventure has really just begun ... Good on ya ...

FYI, the last person was found but did not survive as they fell from the OS down the west face ending up in the black ice gully. DD, afternoon thunderstorm are common. This storm moved in earlier in the day. One report I read said it came in around 11am.

Just a bump as I hope the day was a good one. BTW Your Uncle, Grant was the director of the lab where I did my grad work when he lived in Oootah. Cheers, Allen

Great story ... can't wait to read next years installment. And consider yer self lucky you got to ride inside the helicopter. When the NPS plucked my injured partner off of Denali we rode on the outside, 200' below, hanging by a rope. Had to pay extra to ride inside you know.

The HW was in fine shape given the amount of snow. It was our second choice. With all of the snow it looked to be very straight forward.

Bill when we walked by the Spider I saw very little on it. I was kinda of hoping to see some bits to get an idea of the lines folks have been playing about on but no such luck.

Interesting to see the route with so much snow in July compared to other years. Except for a few routes on Rainier I have become a big fan of carrying up and over and coming down the In/DC or Emmons. Unless bringing up the kitchen sink about all that gets left behind is a tent, sleeping bag and a stove. Which should not add more than a few pounds to ones pack. It saves all kinds of hassles. Coming down the In/DC or Emmons one can really blast down. The last couple of times we have been on the summit at noon (we like to sleep in ;-) and back to Paradise by 5-6.

No need for a car shuttle if you come down the SS. Just walk around the hill. Very straight forward just stay at about the 8k level as you walk around the hill.